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Discussion Starter #1
So I upgraded my audio system about 6 months ago. Put in awesome kicker sub, 2 amps, and 4 new speakers. I did components up front, Polk Audio DXi 6500, and am having some questions about them. I have always had other component systems with amps in other cars and they have all sounded much deeper mid-bass than these polks. Stuff like Techno/Hip-Hop sound very good b/c its mostly lower bass (sub 80hz) and highs; but things like country and rock sound much poorer in that mid-range.

My question before I just drop more $$$ on different components is a lack of mid-bass a common problem in the Tundra (2010 CM) ? Are the doors inherently poor for decent mid-bass without modification? I have placed dynamat on the doors but did not do any baffles or additional housing for the mid-bass drivers.

Or are the Polks DXi6500 have poor mid-bass response even with additional housing/baffles in the door?

Thanks Everyone.
 

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Those seem like decent speakers. What is your crossover setting and are they sealed good in the door? When I put in my door speakers, I put deadening material as far as I could on the inside then the outer. I also used it around the adapter to make sure it was sealed. Crossing mine around 70hz and get good mid bass. They are the JBL P660c.
 

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So I upgraded my audio system about 6 months ago. Put in awesome kicker sub, 2 amps, and 4 new speakers. I did components up front, Polk Audio DXi 6500, and am having some questions about them. I have always had other component systems with amps in other cars and they have all sounded much deeper mid-bass than these polks. Stuff like Techno/Hip-Hop sound very good b/c its mostly lower bass (sub 80hz) and highs; but things like country and rock sound much poorer in that mid-range.

My question before I just drop more $$$ on different components is a lack of mid-bass a common problem in the Tundra (2010 CM) ? Are the doors inherently poor for decent mid-bass without modification? I have placed dynamat on the doors but did not do any baffles or additional housing for the mid-bass drivers.

Or are the Polks DXi6500 have poor mid-bass response even with additional housing/baffles in the door?

Thanks Everyone.
Factory head unit? You can try some baffles, but I would open them up maybe a little.. I have heard that fully enclosed baffles on our truck didnt sound too great..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes factory head unit but have an LCQ-1 inline as well as PP ppi900.4 pushing about 125wRMS @ 4ohms.

I am thinking it may be just the acoustics of our front doors as I cannot believe the 6500's have this little mid bass but who knows...Hopefully someone on here is running these Polks and can speak to them.

Thanks
 

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Yes factory head unit but have an LCQ-1 inline as well as PP ppi900.4 pushing about 125wRMS @ 4ohms.

I am thinking it may be just the acoustics of our front doors as I cannot believe the 6500's have this little mid bass but who knows...Hopefully someone on here is running these Polks and can speak to them.

Thanks
You can start on the path of changing out woofers until you maybe get the midbass you want, or you can treat the doors to act as better enclosures. It's possible those Polk speakers aren't capable of delivering midbass like you're expecting, but the doors are a problem for sure.

I can add to what is suggested in this excellent article, but please ead through this. I encourage you to ask questions as I've used all of the products shown here. Doors | Sound Deadener Showdown
 

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I'm on this mission as well, focal, 400 down the drain, polk mm6x9's same. Cdt es hd's focal tweeters at the top of the pillars and cdt 3" hd's in the dash crossed over through a cdt mx 1000 3 way xover. Anyway much happier but I still want more, I think I'll go zr 800's next if I decide to do anymore.
 

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I'm on this mission as well, focal, 400 down the drain, polk mm6x9's same. Cdt es hd's focal tweeters at the top of the pillars and cdt 3" hd's in the dash crossed over through a cdt mx 1000 3 way xover. Anyway much happier but I still want more, I think I'll go zr 800's next if I decide to do anymore.
What did you do to treat the doors? How are the speakers mounted? 99.9% of people do not know what is possible to make a door sound much better.

This is a look inside one of my doors.


The woofer is mounted to a 1/2" PVC spacer with non-hardening clay around the edges to close up any tiny gaps. On the metal there is Alpha Damp vibration damper, which has a butyl rubber based adhesive topped with a layer of aluminum. As a barrier layer you're looking at mass loaded vinyl glued to 1/8" closed cell foam to decouple the MLV from the door. That helps a lot to attenuate outside noise and sound coming from the back side of the speaker cone. That barrier layer is held in place by velcro, which makes it very easy to access the door.



What you're looking at is the view of the same door with the outer skin removed. I put in a layer of fiberglass insulation encased in 1 mil plastic. Most of the air was pushed out before I sealed it with clear packing tape. The purpose of this is absorption of the sound that bounces around inside the door. This comes through the speaker cone and muddles up the sound with cancellation. An Acoustician came up with this concept and it works really well. He's tried this in several vehicles and it's proven effective with less fiberglass placed directly behind the speaker opening.

Even the stock speakers would sound better with these treatments.
 

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Barry, yes except I used murdermat. Look in your emails for Robert Daugherty. Cdt forwarded an email from me and you provided me the direction. Like I said I'm happy with it but I'd like to be a lot happier. My issue is I always ran large bandpass boxes like 2-12's in a single reflex so it would cover all the needed ranges and then some, plus I'm def doesn't help any.
 

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Hertz HSK 165s here only getting 60 or 70 watts apiece and no problems. I found 70 or 80 HZ is the sweet spot to cross everything over. If the fronts go any lower I have to attenuate that frequency range or else they will bottom out. If I cross everything over any higher the most impactful part of of the bass frequency can be heard coming from the sub which is behind me, and it kills the perception of mid bass.

Tuning plays a big part here. The sub has to be kept out of the frequency range where the human ear starts to be able to easily tell where where it's coming from, meaning you need for your fronts to stay strong and clear somewhere between 60 and 80 HZ. Some minor EQ cutting at the frequencies just above and below the mid bass range and a slight bump in those mid bass frequencies can make a difference too.
 

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I put a cheap pioneer HU , infinity reference speakers and 2 10" subs in my Tundra.

I have been driving the Corolla this week with the stock 6 speaker system and I have noticed several songs that seem to be missing a very big range of sound.
 

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I find the Entune system in our Camry is mediocre too. All they do is over boost the frequencies people notice first. There is no imaging and sound stage like in my truck. If you close your eyes you just sense random, jumbled together sound coming from everywhere. Bass is muddy and boomy and there's not much detail. Like a lot of premium systems it sounds awesome to people who don't do aftermarket setups or know real sound quality but not so much to those that do.
 

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I think the problem is actually the processing of the factory head unit. I did the same thing with an LCQ-1 and found it very hard to get any type of mid to low bass out of my system even though I sealed the doors and did CLD tiles and closed cell foam throughout. When I switched to my aftermarket deck, all other parts of my system staying the same, it came to life in the mid range and mid bass. I have the CDT HD series with 200 watts per side running to them crossed over at 80 hz 12 db/octave and I can shut my subs off and people are amazed. I specifically went with the CDT's because I knew they would give me the mid bass I wanted. The LCQ-1 is a great piece but it can only do so much if the signal coming into it is bad and, unfortunately, the signal out of the stock head unit is so over processed to roll off the bass at higher volume levels (to save the stock speakers from damage) that it cuts almost all of the bass out. Try plugging a direct source with volume control into the front channels on your amp for the front speakers (I would say Ipod is the easiest but it's pretty compressed) and I bet you get much more dynamic mid bass. Even an Ipod will do.
 

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Barry, yes except I used murdermat. Look in your emails for Robert Daugherty. Cdt forwarded an email from me and you provided me the direction. Like I said I'm happy with it but I'd like to be a lot happier. My issue is I always ran large bandpass boxes like 2-12's in a single reflex so it would cover all the needed ranges and then some, plus I'm def doesn't help any.
Rob,

MurderMat is an excellent vibration damper. With this one product you have successfully addressed one issue, which is noise and energy loss through panel vibrations. What you can improve upon is
  1. Creating an effective sound barrier. This is done with a heavy layer that is decoupled(gasketed) so as to not transmit sound by direct contact.
  2. Adding absoprtion inside the door. The fiberglass insulation method I showed is a very effective means to control the chaos of sound that bounces around inside the door.
  3. Optional absportion: 3M Thinsulate Acoustic. Depending on how much room is open between the door and the interior panel, this adds even more absorption as well as thermal insulation.
All of these treatments aid in our perception of sound. It doesn't actually make bass any louder on a decibel meter, but reducing cancellation and attenuating distracting outside noises makes our music sound better to the ear, which is what matters most.

As noted, it's critical to have the full spectrum of sound correctly reproduced before it gets to the speakers. That's a separate issue, but it's also very relevant.
 
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