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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I still have to button it all back up, but it works and looks pretty good. The truck runs 12.3-12.7 AFR at WOT. I am about to order a Rijon gauge plate to replace the ashtray. That is where my boost gauge will go.

My dealer is booked up this week, but I scheduled an appointment for the supercharger install next Wednesday.


 

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Looks good. Nice fit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys!
I'm still trying to decide which boost gauge to go with. A simple autometer mechanical gauge would be my preference, but I have not found one that I like yet.

My other option is a PLX wideband, with boost module, that way I could monitor the right exhaust bank plus display boost. That will run me about $200-$250 extra then just a simple automter, but probably the best solution.
 

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That's a bit lean than usual. I remember the NA 5.7s run pretty rich, might be your 4" intake fualt. I'll know better when you install the blower. Looks clean BTW. I like my craven speed steering column gauge mount. I'm thinking off adding a gauge instead of the coin holder. Maybe an intercooler temp gauge.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's a bit lean than usual. I remember the NA 5.7s run pretty rich, might be your 4" intake fualt. I'll know better when you install the blower. Looks clean BTW. I like my craven speed steering column gauge mount. I'm thinking off adding a gauge instead of the coin holder. Maybe an intercooler temp gauge.

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Same thing I was thinking. My 4" intake and the side exit exhaust may have leaned it out. At cruise it seems kinda rich though. 14.3-14.5. I thought most cars target 14.7-14.9
I calibrated the sensor in open air as directed so I should be good on that.

Looks good! An IC temp gauge would be nice, but where would you squeeze the temp sensor in? You would have to drill and weld the IC somewhere I would think. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bad ass you going to get the s/c asp pulley to. ?


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No not planning on it right now. The SC pulley seems so small, I'd rather get the crank pulley, but then I worry about over driving all the other pulleys. That was an issue with my SRT6. People were burning up pulley bearing, but I had the smallest aftermarket crank pulley on mine and no issues. I'm going to hold off on pulley swapping on the Tundra till I see some long term data on them.
 

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Same thing I was thinking. My 4" intake and the side exit exhaust may have leaned it out. At cruise it seems kinda rich though. 14.3-14.5. I thought most cars target 14.7-14.9
I calibrated the sensor in open air as directed so I should be good on that.

Looks good! An IC temp gauge would be nice, but where would you squeeze the temp sensor in? You would have to drill and weld the IC somewhere I would think. :eek:
Where did you insert the bung? When i first installed mine it didn't read anything because it was too far out. I had to cut the bung in half to make the sensor go all the way in and read properly.

See pic. Its the one on the right. Its located at the end of the headers on the driver's side.

Eddy has a temp gauge on the IC. I'll ask him about it.

No not planning on it right now. The SC pulley seems so small, I'd rather get the crank pulley, but then I worry about over driving all the other pulleys. That was an issue with my SRT6. People were burning up pulley bearing, but I had the smallest aftermarket crank pulley on mine and no issues. I'm going to hold off on pulley swapping on the Tundra till I see some long term data on them.
Eddy and I haven't had an issue with either. Once I get my truck back its getting a standalone and the lower pulleys. Gonna be interesting. Chris said I'm gonna be fine with 12 PSI and the Haltech.

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I think it looks pretty sano.
 

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The pistons are to thin brx never know if it can handle 12 psi :(
Don't worry, if its too lean after the tune I'll put the old pulleys back.




What does your's read at idle BRX?
It doesn't stay still, it keeps fluctuating between low 15s and high 14s.

You could say the range is 14.6 - 15.2.

I'll take a video when I get the truck back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Well my home made intake for sure leaned out my AFR. I just put the stock unit back on.
Here's what I found:
AFR with home made 4" was 12.5 at WOT. 14.3 at idle. Slightly laggy down low compared to stock, but Noticeable increase on top end of rpm range.

Stock intake is 11.5 at WOT. 14.3 at idle. Better throttle response and low/midrange power.

Bad news is my SC install got bumped back to tomorrow. Good news is there is a cold front coming this weekend and I hope to do some track testing/intake swapping. It only takes about 15min to swap so I should be able to do some back back testing. One thing I'm pretty sure of is my cone filter should make the blower whine a bit more pronounced. At least that was the case for my SRT6 and the 3" I made for it. I just hope the 4" is enough to support 500+hp. If not I may build a 4.5".
 

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Thanks guys!
I'm still trying to decide which boost gauge to go with. A simple autometer mechanical gauge would be my preference, but I have not found one that I like yet.

My other option is a PLX wideband, with boost module, that way I could monitor the right exhaust bank plus display boost. That will run me about $200-$250 extra then just a simple automter, but probably the best solution.
I have this boost gauge in my STI and really like it.
Auto Meter

Programmable colors for set low, mid and high points and you can run other things off of those settings if you would like.
Also has peak recall.
 
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