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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

My 1st gen 2000 tundra has been showing signs of a bad ignition switch (running lights on, fan stays on, etc). After checking relays, disabling DRL and still having problems I think the ignition switch is worth replacing.

I have searches online and prices vary from $8 to $104 for this part, some say "genuine" and some say "designed to meet or exceed OE specifications in form, fit and function".

Any suggestions of a balance between price and quality?

Thanks in advance.

Jake
 

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Pulling up an old thread with the same question. Not sure if @jakeo25 ever sorted this out.

Need to replace the ignition cylinder in our 2000 SR5 AC. It's very tired (can pull the key while it's still in accessory position) and the only key I received is very worn down.

Also need to replace passenger door lock where someone tried to drill it open.

In the end I'd like a new cylinder, door lock(s?) and key them all the same.

Welcome any suggestions from the experts here.

TIA!

UPDATE: Ordered a replacement ignition from AutoZone (Locksmart Ignition Lock Cylinder LC63010) and will be installing it shortly. Would still welcome any advice regarding changing out the door lock cylinders and the best place to find replacements.
 

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Generally speaking, most parts that are non crucial to actual engine running are about the same. A lock cylinder is a mechanical part, so it's functions are limited, and not monitored by the ecm... SO almost any one would/should work the same, longevity may be the difference.

For a lock cylinder I would likely go to Rockauto just like I have for several ignition/door lock cylinders, and pick the middle, which would have been about $52. Again, it's a mechanical part, non-driveline, and non-ecm/crucial.

For a coil, or crank position sensor, I may have a different opinion. But it's not like the autozone one isn't an off-brand. Just pricey for an off-brand/non-oem.
 

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Generally speaking, most parts that are non crucial to actual engine running are about the same. A lock cylinder is a mechanical part, so it's functions are limited, and not monitored by the ecm... SO almost any one would/should work the same, longevity may be the difference.

For a lock cylinder I would likely go to Rockauto just like I have for several ignition/door lock cylinders, and pick the middle, which would have been about $52. Again, it's a mechanical part, non-driveline, and non-ecm/crucial.

For a coil, or crank position sensor, I may have a different opinion. But it's not like the autozone one isn't an off-brand. Just pricey for an off-brand/non-oem.
All good points! 👌 I do use RockAuto frequently. I just happened to find the part at a local Autozone and opted to spend a little more for convenience.

That said and after touching base with a Toyota dealer regarding ignition and door key cylinders, I canceled the ignition switch order with Autozone. The Toyota Parts guru I talked to recommended a Cylinder Key Set. I had no idea that they made these "re-key" kits. They come with brand new lock cylinders for everything on the truck including both doors, the air bag switch, the fuel door and the tailgate as well as the ignition key cylinder plus two brand new keys for it all. The cost wasn't a whole lot more than the money I would have spent replacing the ignition switch cylinder, a passenger side key lock cylinder and getting the tailgate lock cylinder re-keyed. I've replaced door latch/key locks on other cars and trucks so I can do all of the work myself.

It'll be nice to have all new locks and an ignition that aren't worn out with keys that aren't worn smooth!

Thanks for the input that made me rethink this a little more. Much appreciated! (y)

Hair Vertebrate Product Mammal Organism
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pulling up an old thread with the same question. Not sure if @jakeo25 ever sorted this out.

Need to replace the ignition cylinder in our 2000 SR5 AC. It's very tired (can pull the key while it's still in accessory position) and the only key I received is very worn down.

Also need to replace passenger door lock where someone tried to drill it open.

In the end I'd like a new cylinder, door lock(s?) and key them all the same.

Welcome any suggestions from the experts here.

TIA!

UPDATE: Ordered a replacement ignition from AutoZone (Locksmart Ignition Lock Cylinder LC63010) and will be installing it shortly. Would still welcome any advice regarding changing out the door lock cylinders and the best place to find replacements.
richsadams,
I only needed to replace the backend electrical contact assembly, the lock cylinders were fine. However, funny you should ask ... It appears the problem I originally had has cropped up again, as the DRL come back on while truck is parked, ignition key is fully off. I am trying another replacement (Beck Arnley 201-1792).
 

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richsadams,
I only needed to replace the backend electrical contact assembly, the lock cylinders were fine. However, funny you should ask ... It appears the problem I originally had has cropped up again, as the DRL come back on while truck is parked, ignition key is fully off. I am trying another replacement (Beck Arnley 201-1792).
Ah, got it. Weird that it's acting up again though. :unsure:

I am noticing now that I can easily pull my key out of the ignition before it goes into the lock position. Glad that the door chimes to let me know! New set of locks gets here Friday. Busy weekend! ;)
 

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Help!

So after selling our house, buying a new one and moving I finally had a little time to swap out our 2000 Tundra's ignition lock cylinder. The cylinder came in the "re-key" kit from Toyota I mentioned in post #5.

The cylinder lock came out easily enough and I thought I was all set until I tried installing the new one. For some reason it will not seat. I did a side-by-side comparison and they look identical. I tried reinstalling the old one and it "clicked" into place just fine. However when I try to install the new one it resists at the very end, as if something is pushing back on it... sort of springy like.

I compared all of it over and over and for the life of me I cannot see any difference. I got out my trusty micrometer and measured every aspect. Everything is within a hair of being identical. Clearly it's not or it would click into place, but I've never run into anything like it.

Just in case, I installed a new electrical contact assembly on the back. Works perfectly with the old lock cylinder, so that doesn't appear to be the problem.

I was able to install the replacement door and tailgate locks and they work fine so I believe the kit I received has the correct cylinder lock (but maybe not?).

I've searched this forum and many others high and low and cannot find another situation like I'm experiencing. Hoping someone has a suggestion as to what might be causing the problem. Otherwise I guess I will go out and buy a new lock cylinder to see if it works, but I'm worried that it'll have the same issue.

TIA for any suggestions or advice!

Here's a quick video of the original lock cylinder being reinstalled and seating perfectly followed by the new one which does not.

 

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Mystery solved. Apparently the lock cylinder I received from Toyota was not the right one. I bought a mid-priced one from Amazon (next day delivery, will wonders never cease) and it fit perfectly. Now I have to get a locksmith to re-key it to match the rest of the locks I received in the set.

You live an learn... and end up spending a little more money than you'd like sometimes. ;)

It'll just be good to have a brand new key and locks all around.
 
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