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When ICON Alloys unveiled our latest wheel, the SIX SPEED, there was a particular size that was rather “special”...the 17", 5x150mm option. This wheel deserves an expanded explanation as it's something that ICON developed for specific applications – the Toyota Tundra and 200 Series Land Cruiser. At this time there are currently a limited number of 17” wheels on the market that properly fit these vehicles due to their large brake package and deep backspace requirement for proper geometry, and certainly none more thoughtfully crafted than the ICON Alloys SIX SPEED.





ICON Alloys went above and beyond to make sure the 17” 5x150mm SIX SPEED not only improves the look of these Toyota models, but the overall function of the vehicle as well. Extra care was taken to make sure the barrel of the wheel would clear the larger brake components found on the Tundra and Land Cruiser, while proper backspace and wheel offset dimensions have been strategically developed to reduce scrub radius and improve all-around handling and ride quality. This focus on precision fitment also allows end users to equip their vehicles with 35” tires and experience un-hindered suspension travel and steering function when used with an ICON Vehicle Dynamics coilover kit.



Long story short...the ICON Alloys SIX SPEED is purpose-built to provide the best wheel and tire fitment fitment available for Toyota Tundras.
ABOUT ICON ALLOYS:
Developed by ICON Vehicle Dynamics (manufacturers of industry-leading performance suspension systems and shock absorbers) ICON Alloys was established with an objective to provide the off-road market quality wheels built with precision, performance, and strength in mind. Time after time in the development of suspension components the ICON R&D team ran into clearance, fitment, and steering geometry issues that limited the drivability and performance of a given vehicle. As this trend continued, the idea of manufacturing a line of wheels with the “form follows function” approach made more and more sense, and off to the drawing board it was…



PRECISION – Application-specific dimensions optimize vehicle dynamics and tire clearance for many of today’s most popular vehicles.

PERFORMANCE – Engineered to reduce unsprung weight and rotating mass for increased vehicle performance both on and off-road.

STRENGTH – Aluminum alloy construction provides high-strength properties that are well suited for heavy off-road abuse.
 

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What width and offsets are available? We currently run an 18x9 +25 offset and 37x13.5" tires. Our offset and backspace dimensions are how we get away with running a big tire on a 2" lift, and need to keep that.


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Well, damn. I'd pretty much decided on these wheels. Lot of good options in almost 35" (315/70r17) tires that are cheaper than comparable 18s, and give you more sidewall for airing down offroad. But a little more investigating reveals that they aren't hub-centric and spacer rings won't fit either if you want to keep the hubcaps. I was surprised since the relatively cheap 18" wheels I've been looking at all have the appropriate 110mm bore.

Anybody have thoughts on this? Does it matter? Seems hub centric would be stronger (although that would only be true in a practical sense if that was the weak link), and definitely easier to mount properly.
 

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...This wheel deserves an expanded explanation as it's something that ICON developed for specific applications – the Toyota Tundra and 200 Series Land Cruiser...

...Long story short...the ICON Alloys SIX SPEED is purpose-built to provide the best wheel and tire fitment fitment available for Toyota Tundras...

...PRECISION – Application-specific dimensions...
I don't understand how Icon can say these things but not get the hub bore correct :rolleyes:

Well, damn. I'd pretty much decided on these wheels. Lot of good options in almost 35" (315/70r17) tires that are cheaper than comparable 18s, and give you more sidewall for airing down offroad. But a little more investigating reveals that they aren't hub-centric and spacer rings won't fit either if you want to keep the hubcaps. I was surprised since the relatively cheap 18" wheels I've been looking at all have the appropriate 110mm bore.

Anybody have thoughts on this? Does it matter? Seems hub centric would be stronger (although that would only be true in a practical sense if that was the weak link), and definitely easier to mount properly.
I have not heard of anybody's wheel falling off because of incorrect hub bore size.

However, I personally would only run a wheel with 110mm. The wheel is designed to have the weight of the truck supported by the hub lip and clamped to the hub face with the lugs. The lugs are not designed to take the weight of the truck. That's why there are only 5 small lugs.
 

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However, I personally would only run a wheel with 110mm. The wheel is designed to have the weight of the truck supported by the hub lip and clamped to the hub face with the lugs. The lugs are not designed to take the weight of the truck. That's why there are only 5 small lugs.
I've spent a good amount of time over the weekend investigating this on the internet. Opinions are literally all over the place. But the explanation that seems the most sensible is that no wheels are supported by the hub lip. The clamping force of the lugs is what supports the wheel, regardless of the hub size. For the hub lip to provide any support it would need to be a press-fit, and that is far from the case. There is enough clearance so that the wheel will slide onto even a rusty hub. A couple mm? If the hub lip was providing support then hub-wheel interface would be constantly shifting due to the slight mismatch, the surfaces would wear, and the lugs would loosen.

The hub-centric design does provide a valuable benefit though, and that is an aid to mounting the wheel. First, it's quicker and easier to get the wheel centered on the hub and then deal with the lugs. It is also apparently possible to get things slightly askew if you only have the lugs to use for centering. I'm basing that on testimonials from people who say they've reduced vibrations by installing hub-centric rings. But other testimonials indicate that proper installation procedure can solve that issue as well.

But I'm with you regarding *why* the hub bore isn't matched on the Six Speeds. If they are designed for the Tundra then why would they be any other size? The bore needs to be precisely machined in the center of the wheel regardless of its size, since the bore is used for balancing. I'm sure there is some manufacturing cost-savings reason, but all the cheap Chinese wheels I've been looking at have a bore sized for the Tundra.
 

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Couldn’t agree more ... specially made for tundra should have had the exact hub bore. But since it isn’t ... are there centering rings that could be used to help?

Also wondering if these require a Extended length lug nut?


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Oh forgot to ask ... any idea if they were running any suspension lift in that video?


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The difference is there for clearance to allow the center cap to fit.

A standard 60° acorn style lug nut is required to mount. It's an industry standard lug that comes a large section of colors and finishes.

The Tundra we used in our video has the following Icon components:

2007-UP Toyota Tundra 3.0 Series Remote Reservoir CDCV Coilover Kit

2007-UP Toyota Tundra Delta Joint Billet Aluminum Upper Control Arm Kit

2007-UP Toyota Tundra S2 Secondary Shock System - Stage 1 | K53151

2007-2017 Toyota Tundra RXT Rear Suspension System - Stage 2
 

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Thanks so very much! So just to validate it sounds like no centering rings are needed? The cap is the centering ring so to speak?

Could one also use a 2.0 or 2.5 coil over for the front set at 3”? (Aka non-resi type)

Are the upper control arms required to get this to work?

And for the rear can just an icon extended length shock work? (Vs resi/ dual, etc). And any sort of rear lift? Block, shackle, spring?

Thanks again!


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Centering rings are not possible. The cap is not a centering ring.

You don't need centering rings or hubcentric wheels for structural reasons. It's an aid for mounting the wheel. With the Six Speed it's a little tougher to wrestle the wheel into position, and you need to be more careful to have the lugs centered and evenly tightened during the install.

If your other questions are concerning clearance, no lift at all is needed for a 315/70r17. But you will need to remove, move, or trim plastic and might even need the body mount chop depending on your alignment.
 

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Thanks so very much! So just to validate it sounds like no centering rings are needed? The cap is the centering ring so to speak?

Could one also use a 2.0 or 2.5 coil over for the front set at 3”? (Aka non-resi type)

Are the upper control arms required to get this to work?

And for the rear can just an icon extended length shock work? (Vs resi/ dual, etc). And any sort of rear lift? Block, shackle, spring?

Thanks again!


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Correct, no center rings required. The center cap serves only as a cover.

Here is link to a quick guild to help visualize the different stage kits we offer.
Icon Stages Explained

Upper arms are not required but recommended for lift heights up to and over 2.5"

The rear RXT shocks are specifically designed to work in conjunction with the RXT leaf system and may not work with other configurations.
 

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Centering rings are not possible. The cap is not a centering ring.



You don't need centering rings or hubcentric wheels for structural reasons. It's an aid for mounting the wheel. With the Six Speed it's a little tougher to wrestle the wheel into position, and you need to be more careful to have the lugs centered and evenly tightened during the install.



If your other questions are concerning clearance, no lift at all is needed for a 315/70r17. But you will need to remove, move, or trim plastic and might even need the body mount chop depending on your alignment.


Thanks boss,

I knew centering rings were not for structural but for helping you get it mounted (hopefully easier) than having to eyeball it and hold crap while putting things together. Aka me doing it alone. Lol.

Just wasn’t sure if somehow the center cap aided in mounting like a centering ring did. Seems like it doesn’t help with any of that though.

If no lift is required then might just go stock or go with very little lift with a better shock/ coil over set up. Yay!




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I don't understand why Icon didn't make the hub bore match the Tundra. Lots of cheap rims match.

5100s on the middle setting are a good cheap way to raise the front a bit without getting it too high for the stock UCAs or needing to raise the rear.
 

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I agree buddy! A matching hub bore would have been ideal.

Yep was thinking either 5100. Or a middle to low setting with those beastly 6112. Saw those at the parts store. Holy crap that 2.5” is huge. Makes the stock size look like toothpick. Ha!


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