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Good news...

Well - despite being hit with a record $ 1.2 billion fine from The Fed - Toyota Corporate has agreed to provide me with $ 1 K in out-of-warranty assistance with this HVAC issue. Additionally, my dealer is also involved and they have agreed to discount the parts and labor. The result is a $ 1,900 - 2,000 bill going down to $ 641.

It only took multiple phone calls and 4 weeks LOL!

Will keep everyone apprised going forward.
 

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This seems freaking crazy.... 3 grand to fix this seems crazy excessive. Furthermore, why would they stick such an integral piece that is prone to break so buried under the dash that the whole dash has to be pulled. This is freaking ridiculous. Isn't it around 5 - 7 grand to replace the whole motor? How does this even make sense?
 

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Not a tundra..but ive been working on a friends jeep..

Its a daul system..with jeep they have found problems with the door breaking from the rod..causing air not to flow into box..

Pulling dash back isnt hard..it was more having to open ac system to get box out....

My mustang has vacuum control actuators..with 1 when bad does default to defrost vent and makes heat mix with cold..

We just got a tundra..2010 and heater motor has been acting up..thats what attracted me into thread. .

Ive been searching for a technical manual..which would have the what to do as far as testing..

Service manual only shows parts..
 

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Got the Tundra back this AM. No rattles. My anytime fog mod is still functional. HVAC directional control now works - air comes from the appropriate places at the appropriate times! Would've been nice if the damn thing didn't break in the first place though! Hats off to Toyota Corporate for tossing in a thousand bucks and to Toyota of Fort Worth for knocking another $ 236.21 off the bill.

Oh and thanks also to TFW for loaning me the Venza LE (with Colorado plates) while my Tundra was under the knife: venza_front.jpg venza_back.jpg
 

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Sorry it took so long all, but here was the end result: had a total service bill of $2350 with no help from the dealer or manufacturer because the vehicle was out of warranty and I did not buy from the dealership.

The picture of the plastic white arm shows where it was rounded off inside causing this whole ordeal. This was the arm on the servo controlling the vent control/mix which I thought was issue and tried to replace myself. Unfortunately, the dealer pulled it out and didn't show me how it went together so I couldn't tell you where it links to. I can't believe such a simple and cheap part isn't available for repair and therefore magnified my costs by the $100's.

So if anyone is interested, I have 5 good servos and a HVAC unit for sale should you feel you wanna tinker with it. Just make me a reasonable offer.
 

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My 07 CrewMax occasionally gets stuck. I learned that if I turn the fan off and cycle the ignition it normally cycles to the selected position.

Perhaps the fan air pressure creates some sort of interference or back pressure causing difficulty with flap movement.

I have gotten into the habit of selecting the HVAC position prior to starting the truck.

Who knows, maybe I am just getting lucky! In the meantime, I will keep my $2200.
 

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My 07 CrewMax occasionally gets stuck. I learned that if I turn the fan off and cycle the ignition it normally cycles to the selected position.

Perhaps the fan air pressure creates some sort of interference or back pressure causing difficulty with flap movement.

I have gotten into the habit of selecting the HVAC position prior to starting the truck.

Who knows, maybe I am just getting lucky! In the meantime, I will keep my $2200.
LOL....that's a sign that it will go "soon".
 

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I saw the video of the dash dis-assembly and re-assembly ... wow.

If this ever fails on me I think I'd have to try and acquire the box and do the work myself. Would it be a huge pain in the ass and be time consuming? Absolutely.

At least I know I would take my time and be methodical. Video recording the entire process as well as photographs and documentation of what goes where and how.

It's saddening that they would put a part prone to failure [plastic moving mechanical pieces] so deep down in the dash. If you're going to hide a $100 module behind $2,200+ of labor .... you should probably look at beefing up the $100 module a little bit but cost-cutting corners have to be taken I guess.......
 

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Just like to add my reply. 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7L Texas Ed. Been dealing with the stuck on defrost situation for years. It would get stuck, come back in a few days then happen again a few weeks later. Finally got stuck permanently. Had a good mechanic try to fix and it can be two issues. 1. The actuator assembly on the drivers side can be broken. Thats about 7.5 hrs and a $200 part. 2. The heater core assembly "the whole big black box" can have a broken part and need to be replaced. Thats also about 7.5 hrs and a $850 part from Amazon. Mine was option 2... No way I can recommend this as a DIY project. It requires the evaporator core to be removed, vac and recharge. Here is the truck HALFWAY REASSEMBLED. I pestered Toyota directly and never got anywhere. If anyone wants to start a class action... I'm in!

881123
 

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I have a 2007 crewmax sr5 and the heater is stuck on defrost. When i turn the knob to the other settings (front vents, bottom vents etc) none of them work.

Anything I can do? It's going to be -37 celcius tonight with a windchill of -52, a little heat at the feet would be nice.

Kuujjuaq, Quebec - 7 Day Forecast - Environment Canada

Thanks
I had an '07 that did the same thing. I found the cabin filter was installed upside down. I had changed the filter a few days earlier. I think the filter interfered with the air direction baffle.
 
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