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Have you done anything around your console- ie; stereo work or anything? Does the know click into place or does it just spin freely? Could be a cable popped off or is jammed inside the console.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have done some console work, but that was last summer. I double checked the connections and there were 3 connectors, but only 2 places to plug them in? kind of weird, heres a pic of the wires, and the one that doesn't have a place to plug it in has a white and grey wire going into it.

Any ideas where this goes?
 

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The HVAC is all controlled by that one connector and is not related to the Aux audio input or the glass breakage sensor connection. If you take off that little plastic wrap thing just above the transmission hump, you should see the gears for the air diverter/mixing door, and they should move when you change HVAC settings. You can also look in through the passenger side footwell, probably more space there. You should determine if it is attempting to move but is jamming mechanically, or if it is simply not even beginning to move, potentially a control problem. If the HVAC panel is lit, then it is a good indicator that the connection is good between the panel and the rest of the control bus. Do any of the temperature controls work as well? What about the heater, AC and recirculate buttons?

The knob is detented and not smooth turning because it's not fully variable like it would be in a pure mechanical system, there are only a few set modes it can be in. For example the temperature controls, the far right 3 settings on the 'hot' end are all the same mode - maximum heating. From that setting, you have to click it left 4 times to lower the temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The fan speed, temperature control, recirculation and A/C buttons and knobs all work.
 

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It sounds like a disconnected vacuum line, all hvac systems default to defrost in the event of loss of vacuum so that you still have your defrosters working. I am not sure where this connection is but I sure there is a diagram either under ur hood or online somewhere.. Let me know if this is it. Good luck
 
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From all of my old Subaru days while up in Fort Drum, nY where it also gets really cold it may be that it is just way too cold. While up in the frozen Tundra in my Dodge 4X4 I would have to place cardboard on the outside of the radiator just to get enough heat to stay confortable.

I know that our Tundras are not Dodges however the heater temp works off blown heated air from the engine. I would try the cardboard but keep an eye on the temp guage. In the - temps I never had my truck over heat,but I kept an eye on the guage until I got used to it.

Best of luck, hopefully you didnt freeze on the way to work.
 

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it warmed up a bit, -35 tonight :)
Yeah EC issued a windchill warning for my area too. -45°C night time windchill, but only -33°C actual temp.

It sounds like a disconnected vacuum line, all hvac systems default to defrost in the event of loss of vacuum so that you still have your defrosters working. I am not sure where this connection is but I sure there is a diagram either under ur hood or online somewhere.. Let me know if this is it. Good luck
That's the other possibility. Mainly it's trying to figure out if the problem lies in the mechanical or electrical side.
I worked on a similar problem on a 10th gen F-150 but the issue was the electronics controlling what to do with the vacuum, no problems with the vacuum supply itself.
 

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It sounds like a disconnected vacuum line, all hvac systems default to defrost in the event of loss of vacuum so that you still have your defrosters working. I am not sure where this connection is but I sure there is a diagram either under ur hood or online somewhere.. Let me know if this is it. Good luck
Alright, i'll check that out tomorrow. Thanks

From all of my old Subaru days while up in Fort Drum, nY where it also gets really cold it may be that it is just way too cold. While up in the frozen Tundra in my Dodge 4X4 I would have to place cardboard on the outside of the radiator just to get enough heat to stay confortable.

I know that our Tundras are not Dodges however the heater temp works off blown heated air from the engine. I would try the cardboard but keep an eye on the temp guage. In the - temps I never had my truck over heat,but I kept an eye on the guage until I got used to it.

Best of luck, hopefully you didnt freeze on the way to work.
Some people do that here too, it's not that bad in the truck that I need to do that, just would be nice to have a bit of heat at the feet.

I'll look at the vacuum hoses tomorrow.
 

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What was the fix for this? My '08 Crewmax Limited is doing the same thing. All harness connections are fine. Help please!
 

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Anyone? I live in the South and it is going to get really hot, really fast down here...I need to get this fixed but my dealer has never heard of this issue. Thanks!
 

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I'm having this issue, any suggestions? Stuck on defrost. I can hear it trying to switch over even after the truck is turned off?
 
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I hope you don't have to deal with what I did...for me this was a VERY expensive repair. There is a "black box" in the center of the console, down on the floor. It is basically a mixing chamber for the hot/cold air, and has a series of motors, dampers, and duct work coming off of it going to the various vents. When one (or in my case several) of these motors/dampers fail, the system defaults to only blowing out of the defrost vents.

The repair literally cost about $4,000 - $5,000 and of course...my truck was out of warranty. Luckily, because of my loyalty to Toyota and my local dealer, they only charged me for the part and shipping to overnight it here from California...total was about $700-$800 I believe. Toyota had to approve this though.

They literally had to pull the entire dash out of the truck...I mean if you are sitting in the driver's seat, passenger's seat, etc...everything in front of you gets pulled out to get to this "black box". My truck was gutted. Sure enough...it was a few motors/dampers on the black box that had the whole thing locked out. I've never heard of anyone having this symptom (blowing out the defrost vents only) have a failure mechanism other than what I'm describing. I'm still in shock that the tech got it all back together, with everything working properly (keep in mind EVERYTHING was pulled out), and no rattles to this day.

My advice is to beg your dealer to help you out and get Toyota engaged early and often. They know about this issue. Good luck. It sucks and you will be without your truck for at least a week, if not longer.
 

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Oh damn. That sucks. Hope mine will hold up. Do you guys adjust the vent a lot causing it to break? I mostly left it (vent) at one setting and only adjust the temp or fan.
 

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So, I am currently going thru all the same issues LSUMatt1514 is going thru. The dealership hasnt given me a total, but will be around $2200. Basically 10 hours off labor to R&R this "black box" (whatever its technical name may be), and $1150 for the part itself. They are telling me there is a broken pin which opens/closes the vent for the defroster and with it stuck open, the air is flowing to the path of least resistance.. ie the defroster. If toyota does not assist me with repair costs, I will be requesting the old part and taking pictures to post.
 
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My truck developed this very same issue just prior to rolling past 150K miles a couple of months ago. Dealer wants ~ $ 2K to fix (~$1K for labor and the other half for the big ass part). I said no thanks and have been living with it. Just 4 more payments and will be looking to change trucks.
 

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Damn that's crazy. If the truck is old just open it up and take that damn thing out and bypass it with a host/duct of some sort and direct the air straight to the upper and lower vent. Of course you won't be able to control the vent anymore but I rather have air flowing out of the upper and lower vents than forever defrost vent or $2200.
 
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