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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys. Just wanted to start this thread for those looking to do a full system overhaul. This is purely to show what can be done. A good friend of mine will be doing the install and I’m hoping to get progress pictures for you all. If not I can take pictures after it’s done and explain what was done.

Here’s a break down of what’s going in:

Up front, JL audio C7 3 way components (aluminum pods for the midrange on the pillar, tweeter and 6.5 mid bass are in factory location)

JL audio C3 2 way components in the rear doors.

Subs will be 2 12tw3v2’s in a vented enclosure under the rear seat.

JL Audio XD600/6v2 for the C7’s up front (active crossover)

JL Audio XD200/2v2 for the C3’s in the rear (passive crossover)

JL Audio HD 750/1 for the subs

JL Audio fix82 to keep the factory head unit

JL Audio TWK D8 for the signal processing

Going to be a hell of an install but I’m sure it’ll be one of the best sounding Tundras around! I’ll keep this thread updated. Everything is purchased and progress starts in 2 weeks! I’ll be happy to answer any questions to the best of my ability.
 

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Subbing because I was actually looking at the fix, didn't look at the d8 for signal processing yet.


Also curious how the under seat sub box works out.


Currently my 13tw5 and my two Si BmMk Iv's are sitting around in boxes I had made for my 2010 cm. Boxes are slightly too deep to use without the movable seats in the back.

I am not sure I could give up the under seat area, as when I grocery shop I flip up a seat and toss all that bs on the flat floor. But I have really been contemplating how much room is under there buried in foam for subs. I mean, look at the underseat storage options. I have been waiting to see a custom box come out for under seat location. Lots of space and depth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Subbing because I was actually looking at the fix, didn't look at the d8 for signal processing yet.


Also curious how the under seat sub box works out.


Currently my 13tw5 and my two Si BmMk Iv's are sitting around in boxes I had made for my 2010 cm. Boxes are slightly too deep to use without the movable seats in the back.

I am not sure I could give up the under seat area, as when I grocery shop I flip up a seat and toss all that bs on the flat floor. But I have really been contemplating how much room is under there buried in foam for subs. I mean, look at the underseat storage options. I have been waiting to see a custom box come out for under seat location. Lots of space and depth.


Almost went with the TW5v2 but it’s not recommended in a vented enclosure and that’s my preferred sound.
I already have no under seat storage so the hard foam will be cut out and become the enclosure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Subbing because I was actually looking at the fix, didn't look at the d8 for signal processing yet.


Also curious how the under seat sub box works out.


Currently my 13tw5 and my two Si BmMk Iv's are sitting around in boxes I had made for my 2010 cm. Boxes are slightly too deep to use without the movable seats in the back.

I am not sure I could give up the under seat area, as when I grocery shop I flip up a seat and toss all that bs on the flat floor. But I have really been contemplating how much room is under there buried in foam for subs. I mean, look at the underseat storage options. I have been waiting to see a custom box come out for under seat location. Lots of space and depth.


The plan is to basically remove as much if not all of the foam and replace it with the enclosure. Bring the box up to the bottom of the seat and recess the subs so they clear with excursion. I’ll still be able to lift the seat and use that area if needed.
 

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Just my .02, but

Doing all that and keeping the factory head unit is a big mistake

Change that too, it’s more than worth it
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just my .02, but

Doing all that and keeping the factory head unit is a big mistake

Change that too, it’s more than worth it


In due time. Realistically there is nothing that an aftermarket HU can do for me that the TWK won’t do X10. The FIX will provide a flat clean signal to the TWK and everything will be tuned/phased/time aligned/crossed over in the TWK.
 

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In due time. Realistically there is nothing that an aftermarket HU can do for me that the TWK won’t do X10. The FIX will provide a flat clean signal to the TWK and everything will be tuned/phased/time aligned/crossed over in the TWK.
Not true

But I wish you the best of luck.

Post up some pics when you get the subs installed
 

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That’s some good quality merchandise you are throwing in there!! I wonder if your current alternator will run 3 amps at a constant 12 volts. Keep me posted, I’m piecing together a full build as well.
 

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That’s some good quality merchandise you are throwing in there!! I wonder if your current alternator will run 3 amps at a constant 12 volts. Keep me posted, I’m piecing together a full build as well.
Based on his current setup at maximum volume the system is drawing 1550 watts with the 3 amps. My current stereo setup is only 2 amps but they have a greater maximum draw of 1700 watts. So far I have not had any problems in the last 3 years with this setup and I still only have the stock 150 amp alternator. As long as he doesn't play the radio at max volume and plug in lots of extra electronics all at the same time the stock alternator should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Based on his current setup at maximum volume the system is drawing 1550 watts with the 3 amps. My current stereo setup is only 2 amps but they have a greater maximum draw of 1700 watts. So far I have not had any problems in the last 3 years with this setup and I still only have the stock 150 amp alternator. As long as he doesn't play the radio at max volume and plug in lots of extra electronics all at the same time the stock alternator should be good to go.


At most I will be playing it super loud with my iPhone plugged into USB. I’ll also be doing the Big 3 Upgrade and putting in a Shuriken 2400 AGM battery. I’m not thinking that this stock alternator will have any issues. Good thoughts though and thanks for the insight!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That’s some good quality merchandise you are throwing in there!! I wonder if your current alternator will run 3 amps at a constant 12 volts. Keep me posted, I’m piecing together a full build as well.


I will certainly keep this thread updated as to the success and failures (if any) so we can all learn.
 

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In due time. Realistically there is nothing that an aftermarket HU can do for me that the TWK won’t do X10. The FIX will provide a flat clean signal to the TWK and everything will be tuned/phased/time aligned/crossed over in the TWK.
This is exactly what I did too. I mainly listen to music via a USB key and the Fix/Twk combination works perfect. No need to listen to opinions from people that have not tried this before recommending changing out the head unit. The quality of music will be outstanding!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Full custom stereo system 2014 CM Platinum

This is exactly what I did too. I mainly listen to music via a USB key and the Fix/Twk combination works perfect. No need to listen to opinions from people that have not tried this before recommending changing out the head unit. The quality of music will be outstanding!


Thank you. I have no doubts that this system will be amazing!
Do you notice any bass roll-off at higher volumes that can’t be corrected with the TWK? Or do you use the DRC-100 for master volume instead of the head unit?
 

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Thank you. I have no doubts that this system will be amazing!
Do you notice any bass roll-off at higher volumes that can’t be corrected with the TWK? Or do you use the DRC-100 for faster volume instead of the head unit?
No bass roll-off at all, just clean & quick (at volumes I have tried). I don't consider myself someone who tries to vibrate the tint off my side windows, but I think you will be very happy with your JL Audio equipment. I leave the head unit at a constant V:50 output and do all the volume control with the DRC-200.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No bass roll-off at all, just clean & quick (at volumes I have tried). I don't consider myself someone who tries to vibrate the tint off my side windows, but I think you will be very happy with your JL Audio equipment. I leave the head unit at a constant V:50 output and do all the volume control with the DRC-200.


I see, you use the DRC-200 for volume control, do you use the second function for the sub control? That’s likely what I’ll be doing. Thank you again for your input my friend!
 
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