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I've got the TA/KO's in 305/65/18 and they have a max inflation of 65lbs. I had been running 38psi, but after reading this upped them last night to 46psi. Should I run them this high? Weird thing is looking at BFG's website, the smaller size below mine are rated to a max of 80psi.
 

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When I had my Falkens installed the tire guy recommended 50 psi which is consistent with this thread. This morning I came to Kauffman Tire for a rotation and asked the guy to put 50 psi in and he looked at me like I was crazy. He says "That pressure will throw your TPMS sensor and your light will come on." He recommended to run the stock pressure. Needless to say, I'm staying with the 50 psi and glad all they are doing is a rotation.

Mike

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I ran my BFG AT's at 65 and the showed only road ware in the middle 75-80%. I went down to 55 and it got better. I run them now at about 50psi and it works well.
 

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I Run run my Toyo M/T at 50psi and it works great...
 

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I got some good year wrangerls with silent armor progrades about 2 weeks ago and I still havnt found a solid base line tire pressure to be running them at. I started at 45psi in the front and 50 in the back. With recent rains although this are great winter tires I havnt been able to keep decent tractions from a stand still. I know this inpart the nature of a pickup with a light rear end. But I am just wondering what PSI you guys with load range E tires are using. Thanks
I run mid 40's when light 50 when towing. Something to remember. Your tire does not support the truck, the air inside the tire supports it. An E rated tire with X amount of air and Y amount of load will work fine as long as the pressure allows the tire to work within its design limits.

If you run too low pressure the tire will flex and bad thing will happen, go too high and bad things will happen. Tune your pressure to the load, Rock Warrior tires are E rated and as far as I know the recommended tire pressures are the same as the other stock tires.
 

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Duratrac 285 60 20 @ 40psi all around. Works for me


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I run my 40 psi in my 37's(10 ply E rated)- takes the slight bubble out of the side wall, rides high and smooth. Used to run 32. The 40 works nice with my 4500lb camper as well.
 

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295/70/18 TerraGrapplers running 50psi now but still playing with it..

Also remember your pressure will increase as the tire heats up...
 

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I finally found Nitto's phone number...come to find out it was the Corporate line...HA! I love you GOOGLE!

Anywho, they (the engineers) are in a meeting according to the OA, but she said that someone should call me by tomorrow...if not this evening.

Anywho, I just ordered some Rockstars 20x8.5 +10 with Terra Grapps LT305/55/20's from Discount Tire and want to make sure I get the MAXIMUM life out of my investment.

By the way, NO ONE can beat Discount Tire...PERIOD! Trust me, with 2 months of research and wheelin' and dealin', DTD beat them all by more than $200. Sorry to hijack, but I promised them I would talk about them every chance I get... :)
 

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Toyota revised the recommended pressure for the Rock Warrior up to 46 psi. So that's what I'm running in my 10 ply 295/60R20 Nitto Terra Grapplers. A larger volume of air (ie the 17" wheel 33"s on the rock warrior) should actually require less pressure than my combo (34.4" on 20" wheels) however, so I may go up depending on how they wear. But I sure won't run less than 46 psi unless at low speed off road. YMMV...
 

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Thanks man.

BTW, just got off the phone with NITTO Corporate.

For the LT305/55/20 series tire, Nitto recommends 42-43 psi. as the perfect setting to maximize tread life. He calculated based off the weight of the truck as found on Toyota's website as well as mentioned an increase in pressure based off any payload/towing to take place.

He said the door sticker is USELESS when changing ANY tire sizes...even if only slightly bigger or smaller and recommends EVERYONE who makes a change to call the tire's manufacturer for the precise psi. After all...they are the experts...:)

Very knowledgeable and almost sounded like a Rocket Scientist...HA!
 

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here is the REVISED sticker for the rw package...



also, here is the difference in load sticker due to the suspension changes i guess cuz the tires are more capable if anything...




i think the damned rw sticker should be a sticky with how peeps seem to be soo confused by simple tire psi...

maybe its a good thing we have the damned tpms after all...
:lol5:

im serious tho....


and before the revision was done and the *supposed* flash to my tpms ( Fox toyota of rochester mi. when they ephed my wheels over they also dropped psi to 33psi, and my light never came on, was that way for about a week to week and a half) the psi on the sticker was 38psi.
 
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I called Michelin support and got some good info. I just installed Michelin LTX M/S2 LT275/65R18 E load tires to my 2010 Tundra Crew 5.7 TRD. The door sticker says 30psi Front, and 33psi rear. However, support sent me a chart of recommended tire pressures depending on axle weight load. According to my specs, he recommend I put 50psi up front and 55psi in the rear. I hope this info helps others researching this!

2535 lbs @ 50 psi
2660 lbs @ 55 psi
2825 lbs @ 60 psi
3000 lbs @ 65 psi
3150 lbs @ 70 psi
3305 lbs @ 75 psi
3415 lbs @ 80 psi
 

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I'm sorry to say but you are way off base. The kicker is that the vehicle's recommended pressures are not based off of having Load D/E tires. You have upgraded your tire to a completely different standard which is incompatible with the original specifications.

For example, if you put an upgraded ecu into the truck which makes 25 extra hp but requires premium fuel, will you still run regular fuel because the manual says so???

The reason the dealer returns your tires to 34 each time you go in, is because they have to. Their rules state that they must set the tires at the factory specs each time the vehicle is in; it is a by-product of the Firestone/Exploder lawsuits. The dealer likely never pays attention to the print on the side of your tire stating that it is an Load E unit.

Despite your statement to the contrary, you are actually damaging the tires. Load D/E tires are designed to have the support of 60-80psi internally. They are not meant to maintain such low pressures, hence placing unintended sidwall loads. You running the Load E at 37, is like running your OEM tires at 15-20psi.

I hope you change your perspective, for the safety of yourself and those around you.
I agree with "jonmacs22 about the E tires specs.. I'm a Truck guy and leaving on farm.. our trucks are use constantly to pull trailers with a backhoe and Stock so inflating tires to 55 psi and if its rate 80 psi is a kamakasi, the wall of the tire has to have the right air to support the abuse on weight. the you go back to change the oil and these *&^$%& will change to 45 to 55 psi. My E tires are running between 65 to 75 depending the weather (winter or Summer). I got a Toyota 4 runner and did replaced the OEM tired rated C (44psi) to E tires rated (80 psi) went to the oil change again and they deflated to 35 psi..on the road after action the toyota is dancing around...tires did no have enough support via pressure to stand the weigh after installing to 60 psi the unit star running ok again..
my 2 cents on the E tire..Do not go by the OEM recomendation (applies only if you get the same tire ir similar) you life is riding on them, do some research.
 

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It appears that no one has referenced tire manufacturer load inflation tables.

The psi of a tire is based on the load it is going to carry as determined by the manufacturer of the tire, not what Bubba Joe* runs in his. The tire manufacturers publish load inflation tables based on model, tire load rating and size.

Click HERE to see one published by Toyo Tires. Very informative.

No more guesswork and your tires may just ride better, safer and last longer.

Cheers! Mr. King

*Any similarity to any real person is purely coincidental. Feel free to insert any other name, nickname, title, animal, mineral or compound that may or may not offend you based on your personal preference.
 
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