[kthcoburn]

I have a 2007 Tundra SR5 with 5.7 engine, 52,400 miles. Yes, I'm a geezer. Bought it new in 2007. I only use it when I need it for truck duties, not a daily driver. It's been trouble free since the differential was replaced under warranty at 13,000 miles. Yesterday I started it up and dash warning lights looked like a Christmas tree. The VSC light was flashing "off". Check Engine light was on. 4LO was flashing. I tried disconnecting the battery, left it off for several minutes before reconnecting. No change. Decided to see what was working as it should. Best I can tell, mechanically every function is working except it seems that rpms are higher than they usually are. Maybe the torque convertor isn't locking up. As understand it, the transmission only reaches the higher gearing by the the convertor lockup. Has anyone encountered this problem? Potential fixes, short of taking it to a dealership for a diagnosis? Thank you

 

[Atombum]

Just before my truck's (2010 SR5 5.7) starter died, the transfer case lights would blink occasionally. I also got a CEL with the code for the crank position sensor (you can probably find my post explaining why I was getting that code). You don't have many miles, but perhaps your starter is acting up due to age or corrosion? If you get the code for the crank position sensor, get that starter checked out.

It also wouldn't try to engage the starter on a few occasions. These starters don't fail like the old days, where they would grind and/or spin before they finally stopped working. These just quit after these weird symptoms pop up.

 

[Danny3737]

It could be anything from a battery going bad, loose/corroded ground, rodent wire chewing. Start with the easiest things first

 

[kthcoburn]

Thanks for your replies. I have no problem with the starter and the battery checks out fine. I'm praying it's not a problem with the Secondary Air Injection System. That seems to have been a common problem with early 5.7s. It looks like I need to invest in a code reader. That should help me determine if the problem is in that system. If it is , it's way beyond my skill set. Very costly to have it fixed.

 

[Atombum]

Thanks for your replies. I have no problem with the starter and the battery checks out fine. I'm praying it's not a problem with the Secondary Air Injection System. That seems to have been a common problem with early 5.7s. It looks like I need to invest in a code reader. That should help me determine if the problem is in that system. If it is , it's way beyond my skill set. Very costly to have it fixed.

There is bypass kit available for that problem that is a cheaper and perhaps easier alternative.

 

[rick3242]

You should be able to go to a local parts store and they should have a code reader you can use. You really need to see the codes to get an idea what to start to narrow in on.

 

[Powertechn2]

Check for evidence of rodents yet?

 

[iTundra2G]

I have a '07 SR5 5.7 with 150K and just had those exact light you mentioned lite up a little over a month ago. My CEL was P2433, search the web until my eyes blurred and there's no post of that code anywhere. Infact I bet this is the first time that code's been mention by a Tundra owner. I suspected the secondary air injection switching valve and started looking into the bypass kit. Low and behold! Listed on their site was my CEL code and it said:

The following are Trouble codes NOT addressed by the Gen 2 Bypass. These will require kit addon(s) in order to clear.

P2433 – Air Flow / Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 1
These codes typically indicate a damaged Pressure Sensor which is usually caused by an Air Switching Valve being stuck open for an extended period of time. Functioning Pressure Sensors are needed for both Gen 1 and Gen 2 Bypass kits.

Discovering that info saved me. Searched the Pressure Sensor on the web with no luck. Since they mentioned "Air Switching Valve being stuck open for an extended period of time" I decided to bite the bullet and tackle the job. Mind you I've never work on my truck before other then changing oil & air filter. The part alone is quite pricey but I was in luck again and found one on ebay for around $200 and it's an OEM part. I followed a youtube video and was able to replace the part myselt, took me a whole day but that's probably because I didn't start until noon and took too many beer breaks haha

The only difficult part for me was getting the two bolts in that's on the right side hose. Once done, I reset the code with the obd reader. Fire her up and BOOM..! No more christmas lights and purring like a kitten until now. With all the other parts it cost me under $300. FOLLOW THIS VIDEO if you plan on tackling the job. IT'S NOT HARD AND BEST OF LUCK......!