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Truck looks amazing man
 
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I noticed that someone was browsing this thread, so I re-linked all the old Photobucket broken links. What a pain...
It wasn't me browsing, but thanks for restoring the links to a great thread. You did a fantastic paint recovery with a really tough challenge!

I was curious why you went DOWN in pad size; I replaced the counter-weight and backing plate on my PC7424 to go to the largest pad possible (7"?). The effect of reducing the pad size is to increase the pressure (same force distributed over a smaller area). If you want more pressure for faster cutting action, I have found you are probably better off going with a more aggressive compound, or as someone suggested, careful finish (color) sanding to speed up the process. Increasing the polishing pressure could potentially negate the benefit of using RO polisher; i.e. you CAN burn your paint with a RO polisher IF you bear down HARD ENOUGH LONG ENOUGH in the same spot.

Perhaps it's the way I use them, but I've never had good results from Menzerna polishing products compared to 3M. I have two Merzerna products on my shelf that are virtually full bottles: Intensive Polish and Final Polish II. (Menzerna product references in this thread seem to indicate they may have a much wider range of products than when I purchased.)

I've tried to use the Intensive Polish, both INSTEAD of 3M 05973 Rubbing Compound, and AFTER the 05973. When used instead of 05973, it just doesn't deliver the same slick, clear, haze-free finish as the 3M (not aggressive enough?), and, this is after two to three applications. When used AFTER the 05973 Rubbing Compound, the Intensive Polish doesn't seem to really add anything and may actually reduce the result. Using the Final Polish II after the 05973 didn't seem to add anything either. I usually go directly from 05973 to wax or sealant.

I concur on the Lake Country CCS pads...they are the only pad I buy.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
It wasn't me browsing, but thanks for restoring the links to a great thread. You did a fantastic paint recovery with a really tough challenge!

I was curious why you went DOWN in pad size; I replaced the counter-weight and backing plate on my PC7424 to go to the largest pad possible (7"?). The effect of reducing the pad size is to increase the pressure (same force distributed over a smaller area). If you want more pressure for faster cutting action, I have found you are probably better off going with a more aggressive compound, or as someone suggested, careful finish (color) sanding to speed up the process. Increasing the polishing pressure could potentially negate the benefit of using RO polisher; i.e. you CAN burn your paint with a RO polisher IF you bear down HARD ENOUGH LONG ENOUGH in the same spot.

I concur on the Lake Country CCS pads...they are the only pad I buy.
I’m a rookie, but in my reading, I was convinced that a smaller pad would help me get to some of the smaller areas easier and it wasn’t going to be much more time consuming. I understand the concept of surface area and pressure and you are probably right. I’ve since used the polisher on my wife’s car with better technique and more success. No issues with pads separating.

I used Adam’s pads this time, but I think the Lake Country pads would have had a similar result.
 

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Pour some 3M rubbing compound on your fingers and feel the difference to any of the menzerna compounds....3M will give you fast results as it's much more aggressive but will not finish down as well as others. This is why majority of the body shops use 3M as they need quicker results. FYI Final Polish II had a lot of fillers in it, so your not really getting the finish that you think.

I would stick with Menzerna or try Meguiars. Props for polishing your entire Tundra with a 4" pad, that's commitment.
Next time try 5.5" and use 4" in the tighter areas or spot correction. Any bigger than 6" pad will be tough with a 6" DA polisher as they don't have the power to throw around that big of a pad.

The easiest 2 step combo I have found that works on majority of different paints is the Meguairs D300 compound with Microfiber pads followed up by M205 with a finishing pad.
 

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Pour some 3M rubbing compound on your fingers and feel the difference to any of the menzerna compounds....3M will give you fast results as it's much more aggressive but will not finish down as well as others. This is why majority of the body shops use 3M as they need quicker results...
WARNING: THE FOLLOWING IS LONG, BUT INTERESTING (Well, at least to me.) :)

Thanks @1prerun for your constructive comments on the 3M compound, and I agree it is aggressive, but suggest it may have a place where extreme prejudice is required. ;)

I have used (and appreciated) 3M 05903 in two instances, and both were on the same truck. After your comments, I understand why it worked well for me, but might be a little aggressive for regular finish maintenance. In both cases, the paint corrections WERE closer to heavy-duty "body shop" work. Prior to using 3M's 05903, I had always used Meguiar's products for normal maintenance, e.g. Fine-Cut Cleaner, Show Car Glaze, followed by Yellow Wax.

In 2005, I was working on a restoration project and wanted to try out a paint technique on my old 86 4Runner whose factory paint was in irreparable condition. I painted the truck using PPG single-stage acrylic urethane products, and the technique I wanted to try was to add 50% clear to the final color coat for improved environmental protection.

After spraying, I had to finish sand (1000/1500/2000) the entire truck to correct orange peel, dust nibs, and minor runs. My final conclusions were: (1) I could skip the 2000 grit sanding and go direct to the 05903 rubbing compound (3M spec says it will remove 1200 grit sand scatches), and (2) Just forget adding 50% clear to the final coat; it sprayed fine, looked great, but after final corrections, I had polished through the final coat in a few places. :banghead:

On close inspection, you could see a very slight "ring" in isolated areas where the top coat was polished through. Except for the presence of the "clear", I suspect it wouldn't have been visible. Since I was using single-stage arcylic urethane, and had applied two color coats before the final 50/50 top coat, the consequences were not as catastrophic as buffing through the CC on BC/CC. At the conclusion of the project, the entire truck finish was flat with very high gloss.

I got busy on other things, and neglected putting ANY wax or sealant protection on the new finish. Several years later (still no wax), we moved across the state. The 4Runner was parked outside in direct Texas sun, wind, rain, under trees with sap drips, mold growing on the paint, and crapped on by a vast variety insect and bird species that etched the paint badly. There were places where these drips/droppings had eaten completely through the three top coats to the primer. The overall appearance of my beautiful repaint was FULL MATTE; there was absolutely no gloss at all.

When I decided to sell the old girl this past summer, I knew I had to do something with the paint. I took a rag and some 05903 out to the 4Runner and tried to clean a little spot on the door frame. This area clearly did not have the worst damage...as you might expect, the worst damage was on the top and hood surfaces. I couldn't believe it...the gloss came right up on that door frame with some intense scrubbing.

To shorten this long story (Sorry), I buffed out the entire truck using my Porter Cable 7424 on speed setting "3", 6.5" CCS yellow foam cutting pads, and 3M 05903 compound. On the better top surfaces, it took two passes with the rubbing compound to get a good result. On the hood, the rubbing compound wasn't enough...after two tries with the compound, I gave it up, and went to 1000/1500 grit finish sanding, then compounded the hood again to get the full gloss I wanted.

An interesting observation was that even with all the buffing, there was little change in the amount of "buff through" from the original repaint correction. This makes me think the "buff through" was in areas of poor painting technique (coverage too thin). Those spots deep etched through the color coats polished up with rounded edges, and with gloss matching the surrounding paint (not sure if it was the primer that polished up, or the fiberglass substrate). :confused:

The old 4Runner, except for a few deep pits, looked better than it did immediately after the repaint twelve years previous...that's probably more of a testimonial to the PPG paint quality than the polishing products or methods. Even though I was selling the truck, I still put a generous coat of yellow wax on the result using a CCS white polishing pad; I wouldn't wish what I went through on my worst enemy. :)
 
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