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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been reading posts all weekend and cant seem to find what "I Think" I need
and was hoping ya'all could fill in the blanks for me.

Im going to upgrade the sound system in my 2016 Crewmax SR5, Non JBL.
Keeping the stock HU. Basically want a plug and play setup no cutting and soldering
or is this possible?

with these components
1.) FoCal IC 690TOY & IS 165TOY (dont believe these require brackets or addtl speaker harness)
2.) Audio Control LC7i - line output converter
3.) JBL Club 4505 5 - channel amp.
4.) Sub Woofer at a later date (thus the 5 channel amp)

Here where it all falls apart for me - LOL

I going to have a local installer do the work for me and do not want any of the factory harness's cut and soldered
I spoke to one local establishment and they said they wont do plug and play, that any connections cut will be soldered.
This was their only way to guarantee proper connections.

I know there are some of you who already done this cause I've seen posts where
harness adapter pics were posted but I either cant find them or I did and don't know that's what I need.

A.) What harness will I need to go from the head unit factory harness into the LC7i ?
is this the harness(s) I'll need for this connection - https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html

B.) Then from the LC7i into the amp?
C.) Out from the amp to the factory speaker harness?
D.) Am I missing anything ???

Anything else I don't know I need or thought of, please share.

Thanks so much - I do appreciate it.
 

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I did this to my 2017 non-JBL, I did a "plug in play" concept, just in case I decided I wanted to trade my truck in at some point.
Basically, I have the AC LC7i, Pioneer GM-D1004, polk and infinity speakers, and a pioneer sub, with my factory head unit. I also believe I used the same harness on the link you provided. I'll get back to you what I did.
 

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I'll answer your questions with what I did. Note I did everything myself and only soldered the output 4438 harness which connected to the outputs from the LC7i.
A.) What harness will I need to go from the head unit factory harness into the LC7i ?
is this the harness(s) I'll need for this connection - https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html
Correct, this is the harness I used, I purchased the 4438. This provides access to the factory harness and allows you to connect to the LC7i and from the LC7i back to the factory harness, provided you want to utilize the factory speaker wires.

B.) Then from the LC7i into the amp?
For myself, I connected my pioneer (front and rear) and kicker (sub) amps. The LC7i has preamp outputs, main outputs, channel 2 and channel 3. For my front and rear speakers I connected them to main and channel 2 outputs using RCA adapter to speaker wire. The sub amp I connected to channel 3 using an RCA cable.

C.) Out from the amp to the factory speaker harness?
One of the harnesses from the 4438, you'll connect the wires from the aftermarket amp harness and connect them to the 4438 harness.

D.) Am I missing anything ???
I don't know so, but I'll go through what I had.
4438 harness
RCA adapter x 2 (front and rear / main and channel 2)
Amp installation kit for both amps.

I think that covers it, let me know if you have any other concerns. This installation is fairly simple. Note you don't have to solder the wires, however for the best connection and sound that's the route to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did this to my 2017 non-JBL, I did a "plug in play" concept, just in case I decided I wanted to trade my truck in at some point.
Basically, I have the AC LC7i, Pioneer GM-D1004, polk and infinity speakers, and a pioneer sub, with my factory head unit. I also believe I used the same harness on the link you provided. I'll get back to you what I did.

Thanks for the reply :rockon:

Did you notice a big improvement in sound and quality ?
Did you DIY or use a local installer?
 

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Thanks for the reply :rockon:

Did you notice a big improvement in sound and quality ?
Did you DIY or use a local installer?
Absolutely, quality was excellent. I've never had a vehicle with a factory system. This is the only vehicle were I utilized the factory HU and harness to the front and rear speakers.
I've also read through here and other forums, simply adding a better amp improves the sound as well.


I DIY, it's pretty easy. I would start by drawing a basic schematic. The only part that I would state that is annoying is getting the power and ground wires for the amps through the firewall.
 

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The harness is a must so you can quickly go back to stock if you sell the truck.
If your local shop will not utilize the harness, find another shop or do it yourself.

There isn't much to it;
Door panels easily come off and go back on.
Your speakers, FoCal IC 690TOY & IS 165TOY, use all factory connections.

Pull the passenger seat and everything is right there.

You'll just need to run the power line for your amp from the battery.
You can ground the amp to the body under the passenger seat.
Just use one of the bolts/screws from the factory amp rack.

Plenty of threads that will walk you thru what you're wanting to do.


@dsharvey08 did you leave the dash speakers connected to the stock HU?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The harness is a must so you can quickly go back to stock if you sell the truck.
If your local shop will not utilize the harness, find another shop or do it yourself.

There isn't much to it;
Door panels easily come off and go back on.
Your speakers, FoCal IC 690TOY & IS 165TOY, use all factory connections.

Pull the passenger seat and everything is right there.

You'll just need to run the power line for your amp from the battery.
You can ground the amp to the body under the passenger seat.
Just use one of the bolts/screws from the factory amp rack.

Plenty of threads that will walk you thru what you're wanting to do.


@dsharvey08 did you leave the dash speakers connected to the stock HU?
Thank for the reply - im getting ready (today) to call another shop and send them the list I posted here and see what they say.
This shop has 4 locations in my area so I think they can do it. I actually spoke to their buyer in May about other components
and he never mentioned they couldnt do PNP.

We will see here by the end of the day.
Thanks again
 

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@1lowlife Yes I kept the dash connected.
 

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Did either of you use an amp rack or something similar to mount the amp and lc7i?
I secured the LC7i atop the factory amp. The Pioneer GM D1004, I placed and secured near the factory amp. The kicker amp is located below the center rear passenger.
 

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I made a 'mount' for my amp out of plastic cutting board.
It isn't the prettiest, but I figure who sees it?



Since I was digging thru pics, here is the amp line thru the firewall grommet.



 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did either of you use an amp rack or something similar to mount the amp and lc7i?
I secured the LC7i atop the factory amp. The Pioneer GM D1004, I placed and secured near the factory amp. The kicker amp is located below the center rear passenger.
So you kept the factory amp and hooked the LC7I to it ???

Man im really confused...lol
 

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So you kept the factory amp and hooked the LC7I to it ???

Man im really confused...lol
No way, I'd hope not.
Now I can see removing the factory amp and maybe mounting your amp to it's mount.
But I can't remember what it looks like.

Your Entune HU should be directly connected to the LC7i (using your adapter under the pass seat), then your LC7i connected to the amp (with RCA cables). then your speakers connected to your amp.
With the adapter we discussed earlier, you should have every thing you need including power for the LC7i and a remote on for the amp.
Also front and rear right and left input from the HU and door speaker output from your amp all thru that adapter.

You just need to run the line from the battery to power the amp and ground it under the seat (with a good big solid ground).

Since you're totally bypassing the factory amp, I see no reason to have it in the truck.
Unplug it, take it out, and set it aside...

I first ran an LC6i with the Entune, but wasn't happy with the results and ended up with an aftermarket HU.
I'm hoping you can make the Entune work with your LC7i and have it fit your needs.



 

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Discussion Starter #14
1lowlife - thanks for the photo post - the visual helps alot.


So after two separate conversations with my other local shop, I have received a quote and I will share that with you all.
Hope you are sitting down or maybe having a cold one, this is about to get "REAL" Real expensive.

$2169.61 Installed... He ran down the list of costs for each component but I must have passed out somewhere along the way
cause the totals I have on paper are about $435.00 short of the total he quoted me.

Either way its not going to happen unless I can figure out how to do this myself. From the costs I got from
Crutchfield and Amazon the shop component prices are about $230.00 higher than what I can get them for today.

I can buy everything for approximately $964.00 plus the cost of whatever harness(s) and battery connections i may need and doesn't include some sort of
rack to mount the amp and LC7i to or a sub.
 

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My local shop wanted $4000 to do what I originally wanted, I just looked at him and said "seriously?".
Come to find the sub he wanted to put in wouldn't have fit anyway.
He wanted 2 amps, mono and 4 channel, I ended up with one good Alpine 5 channel.

Although I've been tinkering in car audio since I put an underdash Pioneer FM/8-track in my 1967 Ford Fairlane (in 1978), you can probably do it yourself.
You don't have to solder your harness on, you can use crimp connectors or even Positaps.

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Connectors-20-22-Gauge-Wire/dp/B004D0C2RC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=positaps&qid=1564763023&s=gateway&sr=8-2

But there really isn't much to soldering and heat shrink wrap.
You should be doing all (or most) of your wire connections outside the vehicle using your harness and that makes things easier.
There are hundreds of YouTube videos that can teach you to solder and shrink wrap.

I use this Dremel solder iron you can also melt the shrink wrap with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-01-Precision-Butane-Soldering/dp/B00MJW08JK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dremel+solder+iron&qid=1564764612&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Although I bought the torch with it as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-01-Precision-Butane-Soldering/dp/B077DL6MCM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dremel+solder+iron&qid=1564764612&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

To run your amp line, cut a small slit in that firewall grommet, and stick the line through.
I use these big 36" wire ties to fish wires around.
I've found several uses for these cable ties for other uses too so buying 25 of them isn't unreasonable.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/25-Pack-36-in-Nylon-Heavy-duty-Cable-Ties/3620800

You can run the line behind the dash, down the console, and then under the passenger seat.
The entire console doesn't have to come out, just take the top off.

Console removal.

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-general-discussion/306370-2014-center-console-removal.html

I ran mine down the side and under the driver's seat, under the console to the pass seat.
Instead of a fused power block under the seat, I mounted a 2 fuse block in the engine compartment as pictured in my above post.
It actually has 2 fuses in it if I ever need another battery connection, as well for awhile I had 2 amps..

I'd replace the speakers first and see how it sounds, just to see the difference.
Or at least do it yourself to save on shop labor.
The door panels come of very easily and your speakers will swap right out.
Just be careful, especially when remove the switch panels, that door panel plastic scratches very easily.

A cheap set of trim removal tools will be needed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front panel removal

Rear panel removal

I sometimes feel I should have bought those speakers instead of the Focal I bought.
I bought better(?) Focal speakers, but had to make adapters and find a place for the front component crossovers, etc..


Do a search on the forum for LC6i and LC7i and your find several threads on these units and installation.

At least you have that harness available.
Many of us have to make our own..:eek:

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-audio-visual-discussion/373441-2014-factory-amp-wiring-diagram.html

Good luck..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My local shop wanted $4000 to do what I originally wanted, I just looked at him and said "seriously?".
Come to find the sub he wanted to put in wouldn't have fit anyway.
He wanted 2 amps, mono and 4 channel, I ended up with one good Alpine 5 channel.

Although I've been tinkering in car audio since I put an underdash Pioneer FM/8-track in my 1967 Ford Fairlane (in 1978), you can probably do it yourself.
You don't have to solder your harness on, you can use crimp connectors or even Positaps.

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Connectors-20-22-Gauge-Wire/dp/B004D0C2RC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=positaps&qid=1564763023&s=gateway&sr=8-2

But there really isn't much to soldering and heat shrink wrap.
You should be doing all (or most) of your wire connections outside the vehicle using your harness and that makes things easier.
There are hundreds of YouTube videos that can teach you to solder and shrink wrap.

I use this Dremel solder iron you can also melt the shrink wrap with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-01-Precision-Butane-Soldering/dp/B00MJW08JK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dremel+solder+iron&qid=1564764612&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Although I bought the torch with it as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-01-Precision-Butane-Soldering/dp/B077DL6MCM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dremel+solder+iron&qid=1564764612&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

To run your amp line, cut a small slit in that firewall grommet, and stick the line through.
I use these big 36" wire ties to fish wires around.
I've found several uses for these cable ties for other uses too so buying 25 of them isn't unreasonable.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/25-Pack-36-in-Nylon-Heavy-duty-Cable-Ties/3620800

You can run the line behind the dash, down the console, and then under the passenger seat.
The entire console doesn't have to come out, just take the top off.

Console removal.

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-general-discussion/306370-2014-center-console-removal.html

I ran mine down the side and under the driver's seat, under the console to the pass seat.
Instead of a fused power block under the seat, I mounted a 2 fuse block in the engine compartment as pictured in my above post.
It actually has 2 fuses in it if I ever need another battery connection, as well for awhile I had 2 amps..

I'd replace the speakers first and see how it sounds, just to see the difference.
Or at least do it yourself to save on shop labor.
The door panels come of very easily and your speakers will swap right out.
Just be careful, especially when remove the switch panels, that door panel plastic scratches very easily.

A cheap set of trim removal tools will be needed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front panel removal
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KHUaUM_q28

Rear panel removal
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cwp_6jSbnms

I sometimes feel I should have bought those speakers instead of the Focal I bought.
I bought better(?) Focal speakers, but had to make adapters and find a place for the front component crossovers, etc..


Do a search on the forum for LC6i and LC7i and your find several threads on these units and installation.

At least you have that harness available.
Many of us have to make our own..:eek:

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-audio-visual-discussion/373441-2014-factory-amp-wiring-diagram.html

Good luck..
Thanks man - I do appreciate all the input.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
You're welcome.
My spelling is terrible...:eek:
Hey "1" - I couldnt tell from your posts - are you running Focal front and rear speakers ?

Crutchfield is telling me the specific fronts/rears wont fit my 2016

Found my answer - looks like you arent from a post you made while back
https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/9430908-post6.html

Also looks like Crutchfield has changed the web links to them
 

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Discussion Starter #19
New plan maybe -

Think I might start with the LC7i and the Amp first
These two should be straight PNP as noted previously
Then replace the speakers as I roast the factory cheapies..

I can get a used LC7i for $100.00 and the amp for $198.00 all free shipping.
 

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Hey "1" - I couldnt tell from your posts - are you running Focal front and rear speakers ?

Crutchfield is telling me the specific fronts/rears wont fit my 2016

Found my answer - looks like you arent from a post you made while back
https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/9430908-post6.html

Also looks like Crutchfield has changed the web links to them
You are correct, crutchfield has fu(ked up the links I posted.
they also fu(ked up the links I'm trying to post...:(
So I'll give the Focal links to speakers..

Crutchfield freaks out when anything isn't plug and play...
A little modding can make stuff fit.

As far as my current speakers;
I'm running Focal Performance PS 165FX components in the front doors.
These speakers gave me such a great front stage presence that I disconnected all 3 dash speakers that were connected to my aftermarket HU,.

https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/car-audio-kits-solutions/performance/expert/component-kits/ps-165-fx

They say they won't fit because I had to make spacer adapter out of 3/4 MDF..
I also had to buy Toyota JBL door sails to mount my Focal tweeters as well as run wiring for the tweeters.







Rear doors have Focal Performance 165AC Access Series 6-1/2" coaxial speakers

https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/car-audio-kits-solutions/performance/access/coaxial-kits/165-ac

They say they won't fit because they also need an adapter.
I gutted the OME rear speaker and used it's body for the mount.





Also had to do a little trimming to the door panel.



Since you want to retain the Entune, I'd go for the Focal Toyota replacements.
IS version have the separate tweeter (for JBL wired trucks) IC is the non-tweeter for non-JBL.

https://www.focal.com/en/search?s=toyota

The front focal for Tundra non JBL, should be a direct replacement connections and all.

https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/car-audio-kits-solutions/integration/plugplay/focal-toyotar/ic-690toy

The rear focal for Tundra non JBL, should be a direct replacement connections and all.

https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/car-audio-kits-solutions/integration/plugplay/focal-toyotar/ic-165toy

Since you will retain your dash speakers, that run straight from the Entune, you should be OK.
Right now the factory amp and HU limits mids and lows to the front doors expecting the upper mids and highs to come from the dash.
Your LC7i will sum the outputs of the Entune for your door speakers and give them full range out of the amp.

I think it would be a good idea to install your LC7i and amp to the stock speakers and see what you end up with.
It might sound OK depending on your needs, although in the end you will want some kind of sub eventually.
Just keep in mind those stock speakers, at least the front doors, are 2 ohm speakers.




In my 2005 double cab I ran 3 old school fosgate amps, a little custom sub box, and an aftermarket single DIN Pioneer HU.
2 old Fosgate Punch 75s for the doors and another Fosgate for the sub.
One for the STOCK front door speakers, one for the rear door STOCK speakers, and one for a small custom sub box I had made with an 10" Kicker sub.
I ran that system for 10 years with the stock door speakers.
Was it perfection?
No.
Did it get me by for time?
Yes it did..
No regrets.











Don't worry about perfection from the rear door speakers, they just give audio 'fill' to supplement the fronts.
Who sits back there anyway.

Sorry for the rant.
I worked 60 hours this week, just got off at 1:30 AM, and I'm a few Modelos in.
Time to crash..
Have a great weekend...
 
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