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Didn't get any pics, but I basically just wrapped the two worm-gear hose clamps around the bracket (and over the original strapping metal piece)...so they sit next to each other and between the two bolts.
Hose size was max diameter of 2 1/4'' to minimum of 1 5/16''. I still had room on the gears of the hose clamp to make it tighter, but I didn't want to tightening it too much and break the tightening mechanism ....which I kind of did with the second clamp.

This is definitely and easier fix than dealing with the strapping and removing bolts, etc. Just get a heavy duty (t-bar/t-bolt) hose clamp and wrap that sucker around the leaky manifold bracket. Tightening it down as much as you can, and you're good to go.
I finally ended up doing this repair when I changed the oil on my truck. I used 20 gauge galvanized strapping. I also removed the nuts to hold the strapping down rather than put new nuts over the studs (since some people reported breaking the studs). So far so good, the leak is gone and the truck is quiet again. Hopefully it stays that way.

Tundraslaug, next time your are under your truck, I appreciate pictures of how you put those hose clamps on. I am sure it would help others too. If the strapping fails, I may try your method.
 

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own an SR5 longbed with 45K miles (I'm retired) its been making this dieseling noise since the day I drove it home from the Toyota dealer after getting the fix for the air injection pump recall fix. I suspected they somehow inflicted the problem from their work around the injection tubes but they would not admit to it and wanted to replace the exhaust manifolds, and charge me just $5k!

I live 8 miles from Toyota N. American Headquarters in Plano TX and had considered driving it into their lobby in protest (for this and the other issues I've had i.e. leaking driveshaft replaced twice, bouncy bed issue, crappy paint job and failing/missing rubber trim etc)....

But then I found this thread! So thanks for saving me from some possible jail time!

So I bought some high temp cement but have not tried it for fear it would just make a big mess. I'm going to try your clamping method. But I'm wondering if anybody tried cement?


Anyway thanks again for this thread and the detailed pictures. This has been a thorn in my side and hopefully this simple fix will work for me too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hey Ketch5, hope the clamps are able to remedy the tick.

I bought the normal "worm-gear" hose clamps but I think they do sell some that are more like a bolt being tightened to a nut (T-bar clamp I think it is called / mentioned above) versus the worm-gear style...I think those would probably work best, but might take a few different t-bar hose clamps to get the sizing correct (as the worm-gear hose clamps seem to have a bigger range of size within one clamp- because you will need the clamp to be big enough to wrap it around the bracket, but small enough to tighten together the leak)

I also bought some JB weld to give it that a try now that the weather is coming around in the North East. Probably will do a JB weld attempt and reinforce with hose clamps again.
My ticking isn't as bad as when I first noticed it when I had it shipped up to me from a seller on eBay, but it is still a little present.
Probably has warmed up and stretched out the clamps over the last handful of months. Still cheaper than new headers or manifold....and less stressful (financially and emotionally) than dealing with a dealership.

I got almost 180k miles on my tundra and it is going strong without any major issues since I bought it with 165k miles about a year and a half ago. Hopefully everything works out well with your truck. Also just did a seafoam treatment and cleaned the MAF sensor and the truck's idling sounds smoother and seems to get better MPG according to the dashboard computer...thus far. Good luck
 

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strap worked no more exhaust leak

I tried this and it worked! Truck used to clatter and sounded like the air intake fans were going bad. But after the fix the engine is back to normal. Mine was pretty loud and I was smelling exhaust fumes inside the cab.

I used some galvanized HVAC vent hanger strapping. Unfortunately the nuts I have on hand are taller and there is not enough stud length exposed to secure more than one nut on each stud, so if it comes loose I may need to add some locktite. Drove the truck 20 miles no noise so far. Amazingly simple fix. Genius. Kudos to VictorG and TundraSlug. :):):)
 

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UPDATE:
Found the exact location of the exhaust leak.
I hooked up my (clean) shop vac to my exhaust with the air blowing into the tail pipe and felt around the area of where the #3 tube that recycles the exhaust fumes is connected to the back part of the manifold.

Turns out it is NOT the tube or gasket leaking. It is in fact a leaking where the mounting bracket (for tube #3 ) meets the exhaust manifold.
I took some pictures to give you guys a better idea.

You can see the tube in the third pic, the exhaust manifold and mounting bracket in 4th pic, end of tube in 1st pic and a close up of where the crack is in the 2nd pic.

I will be working on getting the manifold removed and welded in the crack this week or next.

One of your bolts is different. Is drilling out the studs and putting bolts through here an option? I stripped out both bolts trying this fix, and its not pretty. I tried an extractor set and it just made the nuts perfectly round. I tried cutting the nuts, but pretty sure I got into the threads. Next best thing is going to be to drill them out and run bolts through like you did here.
 
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