I have a lot more luck with rusty exhaust components when I use my impact gun. Seems to hammer them off better than with a breaker bar.
DIY Exhaust System Replacement with Cat flange bolt rust questions
I am in the process of replacing the exhaust system (completely rusted out) in a 2008 Toyota Tundra SR5 DC 5.7L Standard length. When I went to remove the driver's side flange bolt (muffler to cat) I found that some jury-rigger had welded the flange together.
The best solution would be to cut the flange off, throw out the old muffler-side and re-weld a new flange on to the cat side. But since the pipe is pretty rusty and the cats are likely 200,000 miles old, I am going to replace the driver's side converters. This is a lot more expense than I wanted, but will be fine and one less thing to worry about later. I am also doing it myself,and also don't have any pipe bending equipment.
I have put some PB blaster on the cat flange nuts and am applying periodically. I am worried that they may be too rusty to move, though I have yet to make the attempt. I must admit that I fear stripping the nuts. Maybe I am just previous and paranoid, but I am hoping for any other tips on how to get these rusted bolts loose. The space is very tight and precludes any use of angle grinders, recip. saw, and probably not even a dremel. Heating with a torch is probably iffy, but I might attempt it if easy stuff doesn't work!
Any help is appreciated, but if you tell me to take it to a shop, I will pee on your leg!
The best solution would be to cut the flange off, throw out the old muffler-side and re-weld a new flange on to the cat side. But since the pipe is pretty rusty and the cats are likely 200,000 miles old, I am going to replace the driver's side converters. This is a lot more expense than I wanted, but will be fine and one less thing to worry about later. I am also doing it myself,and also don't have any pipe bending equipment.
I have put some PB blaster on the cat flange nuts and am applying periodically. I am worried that they may be too rusty to move, though I have yet to make the attempt. I must admit that I fear stripping the nuts. Maybe I am just previous and paranoid, but I am hoping for any other tips on how to get these rusted bolts loose. The space is very tight and precludes any use of angle grinders, recip. saw, and probably not even a dremel. Heating with a torch is probably iffy, but I might attempt it if easy stuff doesn't work!
Any help is appreciated, but if you tell me to take it to a shop, I will pee on your leg!
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I will certainly try this as well, besides I can't get my breaker bar anywhere near that driver's side flange without removing lots of stuff that I hope I don't have to remove! I think I need a 10" impact extension.I have a lot more luck with rusty exhaust components when I use my impact gun. Seems to hammer them off better than with a breaker bar.
You can always cut the nuts off, pound the bolts out, and replace with new stainless nuts and bolts.
That's what I suggest anyways. I had to do that on my FJ in 2008 when I was installing a cat-back.
That's what I suggest anyways. I had to do that on my FJ in 2008 when I was installing a cat-back.
The cutting off is the hard part. The area is very tight and the studs are also likely rusted into the cast iron. How to reach them if the nuts strip or fail is really my concern. Or better yet, someone tell me secret formulas where electrolysis was used to dissolve turn the iron oxide back into steel and make the rust just disappear. Now why hasn't anyone done this on a simple machine you can buy on Amazon?:soapbox:You can always cut the nuts off, pound the bolts out, and replace with new stainless nuts and bolts.
That's what I suggest anyways. I had to do that on my FJ in 2008 when I was installing a cat-back.
I will be replacing the bolts with 304 stainless and bronze nuts with nickel anti-seize. So have you had any trouble with the stainless bolts? The argument is (I suspect from persons who don't know the stainless types) is that it stretches (expands at temperature) and hardens and gets internal granulation, etc. and fails. Any failure on yours? The only bolt I was able to remove was a stainless one with two stainless nuts. They were not galled, and had no appearance of any anti-seize. But this is very off topic.
Thanks for you reply and the vote of confidence for the stainless.
Well, I have a lot of tools.The cutting off is the hard part. The area is very tight and the studs are also likely rusted into the cast iron. How to reach them if the nuts strip or fail is really my concern. Or better yet, someone tell me secret formulas where electrolysis was used to dissolve turn the iron oxide back into steel and make the rust just disappear. Now why hasn't anyone done this on a simple machine you can buy on Amazon?:soapbox:
I will be replacing the bolts with 304 stainless and bronze nuts with nickel anti-seize. So have you had any trouble with the stainless bolts? The argument is (I suspect from persons who don't know the stainless types) is that it stretches (expands at temperature) and hardens and gets internal granulation, etc. and fails. Any failure on yours? The only bolt I was able to remove was a stainless one with two stainless nuts. They were not galled, and had no appearance of any anti-seize. But this is very off topic.
Thanks for you reply and the vote of confidence for the stainless.
And a hoist. At that time I didn't have a hoist, so I used a buddies, but a pair of ramps or two would help.
I had an angle and straight die grinder with cutting discs and also burr's if needed.
I just cut through the nuts where they met the flange. It was sort of a pain to fit in on the top side.
I will note that I made my exhaust on the 2010 RW, and there is ample room to fit in there assuming you have a compressor and correct tools. Otherwise a Dremel will also fit.
Pretty much just grind/cut the nut off till you are at the flange. Then use a punch and punch the remaining bolt out. This might necessitate some heat, but, again, there is room enough to use a propane or mapp torch.
As far as SS hdw and heat, the exhaust itself is SS. So not really an issue.
If you feel like being super anal about it (I do not say this in disrespect, so please don't take it that way), you could use fine thread bolts, with washers on the bolt head side, and also a washer on the nut side, along with a lock washer on the nut side, and a stainless crimp/stamp all metal lock nut.
The lock washer will take up any expanding issues, and if you add anti-seize you will likely never have any issues getting it back apart if need be.
Fine thread should hold torque values better over heat cycles. But to be honest what I said is overkill.
I did not have any issues with my SS hardware. But I sold it in 2010.
I live in Mi where rust is bad.
But going back to heat, the exhaust is stainless, the flanges and the pipe are 409 or 416.
In theory the flanges and bolts will expand/contract at the same rate.
I will say that stainless is more brittle. But you will likely never try to take them back off, and if you do, you just cut them and replace again as you won't have nuts welded to the flange anymore anyways.
And yes, the nuts are spot welded to the flanges unless they changed something.
I have all those tools, and yes, I could get my die grinder in there (I hate burr slivers). I think the set-up is a bit different here. The cat flange is bolted at the manifold end which has three star-end studs in a cast part that the cat flange goes on to and is then secured with 3 nuts. The only issue with your suggestion given this scenario, is that if I have to cut the nut off, I have to be careful not to mess up the stud, or I have to have a way to get the studs out. There is no pounding out the screwed in studs of course. Or I could try to drill and tap in a small space. I should figure out how to post some pictures, but don't have time until the weekend.
To post a pic you can just save it to your computer, and drag it to the box below the quick response area.I have all those tools, and yes, I could get my die grinder in there (I hate burr slivers). I think the set-up is a bit different here. The cat flange is bolted at the manifold end which has three star-end studs in a cast part that the cat flange goes on to and is then secured with 3 nuts. The only issue with your suggestion given this scenario, is that if I have to cut the nut off, I have to be careful not to mess up the stud, or I have to have a way to get the studs out. There is no pounding out the screwed in studs of course. Or I could try to drill and tap in a small space. I should figure out how to post some pictures, but don't have time until the weekend.
It will attach automatically.
That does seem different that the Fj. I forget on the Tundra honestly.
In the event that it is studs that are welded to the flange and the nuts are just nuts, just cut the stud head off where it is welded and punch those out with the nut still attached instead.
I guess I might not really be picturing in my head what you are seeing. It is raining so I can't just lay under my truck at the moment, or I would as I am curious now.
So, just to finish this thread, my fears were unfounded in that I bought a 1200 ft-lb. torque air ratchet at harbor freight, and after spraying the nuts and studs thoroughly with PB Blaster, and letting it sit overnight and then spraying some more before trying, I was able to get a swivel and socket on the nuts and they came off without incident. The new system is installed and working wonderfully at this point! Thanks everyone for all the help. You people make humanity a good thing!
Older thread, I know. But, do you happen to remember what size the nuts were? Going to replace both cats and exhaust in the coming days. Thanks!
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