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I Thought I would post how I did my differential oil change this weekend on my 2012 Tundra Crewmax 4x4. I know there are other threads about how to do this but maybe mine can help also.

1. Get the parts you need, this is a pic of the replacement washers you will need when you do this job. If you don't want to get them good luck, but I did.



This is the oil I used you can use what ever you want, I found it the cheapest on Amazon about $15 a bottle.



2. You will need the following tools: For the front 10mm allen socket, breaker bar, pump for the oil to into the transfer case you have to have this to make it easy, torque wrench. Front used 2.5 quarts/ if you dont believe me do what what ever you like

For the Transfer case: 12mm socket for removing transfer case plates mine had two that had to be removed, 24 mm socket for the transfer case plugs, breaker bar, torque wrench, and 1.2 quarts of oil

For the rear diff: 24 mm socket, breaker bar, torque wrench, and 3.85 quarts of oil.

Its not rocket science so i am trying to keep it simple. If you don't have a tool improvise. Do this on a level area if you have a lift or have shackles your rear diff may be tilted more than normal, if this is the case you will know if you remove fill plug for the rear and it starts to drain from the top. If this happens what I did is i parked the truck backwards in drive way because of the incline and solved problem.

Drive truck for little bit before doing this job to get oil moving and shift into all 4wd low and high.

ALWAYS REMOVE THE FILL/TOP PLUG FIRST TO MAKE SURE YOU CAN REFILL

This is pick of front differential and plugs. Remove the top plugs first and then proceed to the lower. I made sure to lay down rags on drive way to keep oil off of concrete. Make sure to replace washers as well front uses parts 90430-24003 looks cooper color, and 1215710010 below is pick. I also had to remove my pro comp skid plate.

this is pic of front diff plugs


Pic of plugs and washers:


Let oil drain and refill then seal with new washers. I filled until it began to drip slowly and it was accurate. Then tighten to 29 ft lbs with torque wrench.

Pic of pump I used to fill diff bought it at Orielys for $10.


Next is the transfer case you will have to remove the two skid plates. I say two because my truck had a second skid plate next to fill plug that got in the way so I removed it here are pics

First skid plate on transfer case


Second skid plate on transfer case



Once you remove the plates you will expose both the fill and drain plugs for transfer case below



Remove plugs and drain. Replace with new washers and fill with 1.2 quarts or till it drips slowly. You will need pump to fill both the transfer case and front diff. I bought mine at parts store for $10. Torque to 27 ft lbs. Here are the parts and plugs below with part numbers same washer for both plugs it has two different part numbers but they will give you same part



Next is the Rear diff
You will need to use 24mm socket for both fill and drain and a breaker bar makes it a breeze. Drain and clean plugs and replace washers. I used 3.85 quarts fill till it drips but it has to have at least 3.85 quarts. Tighten to 36 ft lbs

Pic of plugs and washers parts number 1215710010 x 2


For the rear I did not have to use pump I just squeezed oil in and it worked fine but my truck is lifted.



And thats it very simple and not rocket science. This will cost you as much as you want it. I spent about $120 on oil, and I used the purple stuff at $15 a pop and washers at dealer about $14, and pump $10 bucks, and I have all the tools already. But I know I did it right. I hope this helps.

Remember this is what I did for my truck do at your own risk, and it is for a 2012 tundra 4x4 crew max flex fuel, I dont know about other trucks or specs.

 

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nice write up

Thanks
 

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Yup, nice write up and thanks for the part numbers for the washers. Did the rear in my 2WD w/Auburn LSD today but did not change the washers....will have to do that on the next change.

Auburn was installed at 6K and doing my first fluid change at 28K. Oil did not look bad.

Used ~ 3.5 qt Valvoline High Performance 75W-90 Gear Oil (~$10/qt from NAPA) with 12 oz Auburn friction additive (2x6oz bottles from Amazon for $30 total).

My truck is not lifted but I did drop the spare and was able to squeeze all of the bottles in without issue.
 

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Rclb 4.7

Nice write up:)

Did the differential today with 4 qts / 24 oz Amsoil Extreme 75-90. Truck had 58K, can't even feel the transmission shift with the new oil.
-Make sure you can get the plugs off first. My drain almost needed an impact wrench.
-Buy extra oil. Most tundra owners claim 4 qts enough. With a level truck, it was another 24 oz to the fill bottom.
-Check the label on the differential. Mine said go to the owners manual. No additive specified for oil replacement.
-Amsoil was about $15 a qt as well. Great for the differential. Wish I had enough left for the gearbox on my Jet 10" bandsaw.
 

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Nice write up OP. Let us know if you gain any MPGs with the Royal Purple.

I Thought I would post how I did my differential oil change this weekend on my 2012 Tundra Crewmax 4x4. I know there are other threads about how to do this but maybe mine can help also.

1. Get the parts you need, this is a pic of the replacement washers you will need when you do this job. If you don't want to get them good luck, but I did.

This is the oil I used you can use what ever you want, I found it the cheapest on Amazon about $15 a bottle.

2. You will need the following tools: For the front 10mm allen socket, breaker bar, pump for the oil to into the transfer case you have to have this to make it easy, torque wrench. Front used 2.5 quarts/ if you dont believe me do what what ever you like

For the Transfer case: 12mm socket for removing transfer case plates mine had two that had to be removed, 24 mm socket for the transfer case plugs, breaker bar, torque wrench, and 1.2 quarts of oil

For the rear diff: 24 mm socket, breaker bar, torque wrench, and 3.85 quarts of oil.

Its not rocket science so i am trying to keep it simple. If you don't have a tool improvise. Do this on a level area if you have a lift or have shackles your rear diff may be tilted more than normal, if this is the case you will know if you remove fill plug for the rear and it starts to drain from the top. If this happens what I did is i parked the truck backwards in drive way because of the incline and solved problem.

Drive truck for little bit before doing this job to get oil moving and shift into all 4wd low and high.

ALWAYS REMOVE THE FILL/TOP PLUG FIRST TO MAKE SURE YOU CAN REFILL

This is pick of front differential and plugs. Remove the top plugs first and then proceed to the lower. I made sure to lay down rags on drive way to keep oil off of concrete. Make sure to replace washers as well front uses parts 90430-24003 looks cooper color, and 1215710010 below is pick. I also had to remove my pro comp skid plate.

this is pic of front diff plugs

Pic of plugs and washers:

Let oil drain and refill then seal with new washers. I filled until it began to drip slowly and it was accurate. Then tighten to 29 ft lbs with torque wrench.

Pic of pump I used to fill diff bought it at Orielys for $10.

Next is the transfer case you will have to remove the two skid plates. I say two because my truck had a second skid plate next to fill plug that got in the way so I removed it here are pics

First skid plate on transfer case

Second skid plate on transfer case

Once you remove the plates you will expose both the fill and drain plugs for transfer case below

Remove plugs and drain. Replace with new washers and fill with 1.2 quarts or till it drips slowly. You will need pump to fill both the transfer case and front diff. I bought mine at parts store for $10. Torque to 27 ft lbs. Here are the parts and plugs below with part numbers same washer for both plugs it has two different part numbers but they will give you same part

Next is the Rear diff
You will need to use 24mm socket for both fill and drain and a breaker bar makes it a breeze. Drain and clean plugs and replace washers. I used 3.85 quarts fill till it drips but it has to have at least 3.85 quarts. Tighten to 36 ft lbs

Pic of plugs and washers parts number 1215710010 x 2

For the rear I did not have to use pump I just squeezed oil in and it worked fine but my truck is lifted.

And thats it very simple and not rocket science. This will cost you as much as you want it. I spent about $120 on oil, and I used the purple stuff at $15 a pop and washers at dealer about $14, and pump $10 bucks, and I have all the tools already. But I know I did it right. I hope this helps.

Remember this is what I did for my truck do at your own risk, and it is for a 2012 tundra 4x4 crew max flex fuel, I dont know about other trucks or specs.
 
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Nice write up OP! Just did the rear and t-case. Used pretty much the same amount of fluid. I went with redline oil gl5 for the diffs and redline mt90 gl4 for the t-case. I have a question for you guys. When I changed the rear diff it was black black oil is that normal? Truck has 36k on it. The t-case fluid looked great just a tad darker then the new fluid. I ran out of time for the front diff. Thanks guys


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Rear oil is always the worst. I wouldn't waste your money on the tranny, front or transfer until 100k
 
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Nice write up
 

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I've had a case of OCD when it comes to fluids on my Sequoia...more than normal because I bought it used. Its been a long time since owning a used vehicle.

I wont say how often I've changed all the fluids, but I can confirm all but the front diff appear to be able to go long miles. 60-80k (NON TOWING) in my opinion.

When purchased at 80kish, I would not call the front diff oil in poor condition but it was in need of fresh oil for sure. Far more than the other two cases using gear oil, and at each change it was always the "darkest".
 

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Rear oil is always the worst. I wouldn't waste your money on the tranny, front or transfer until 100k
I agree. My front diff and transfer case oil was still clear. Rear diff stunk
I changed mine around 55K I think.
 

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I've had a case of OCD when it comes to fluids on my Sequoia...more than normal because I bought it used. Its been a long time since owning a used vehicle.

I wont say how often I've changed all the fluids, but I can confirm all but the front diff appear to be able to go long miles. 60-80k in my opinion.

When purchased at 80kish, I would not call the front diff oil in poor condition but it was in need of fresh oil for sure. Far more than the other two cases using gear oil, and at each change it was always the "darkest".
Are you in 4WD a lot? Everyone else is saying the rear diff is the worst.
 

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Are you in 4WD a lot? Everyone else is saying the rear diff is the worst.
4WD may be a dozen times a year for a 15-30 minute drive.


The manual says, for TOWING the front diff oil is to be changed every 15k.

The rear and transfer (center) case @ 30k....again for TOWING.



Ironically, I'm nearly right on with the book for the front diff and didn't even realize it. But clearly, the front diff has more going on within than the center and rear or it wouldn't be recommended to change every 15k vs 30k.

I cannot explain why others see their fluid being worst in the rear. It doesn't add up.
 

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As far as I know, it should be fine. I use the same stuff in mine.
 
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How long have you been using this oil? Have you had any issues so far? I did some research and no one said anything negative about LS fluid. Only a few recommend sticking with oem fluids.
Is it OK to use an oil with a limited slip differential additive? I'm using Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90.
@Toxarch @loredoarturo
 

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So I did this today. 91,000 on the the odo... The front fluid didnt look too bad, like dirty cooking oil. The Xfer case oil looked like new, and the rear diff looked like burnt coffee, and smelled like rotten eggs and a$$. Swapped it all out with Mobil 1 LS 75w90. It was pretty straight forward, and thanks to the OP for the crush washer part numbers... It made easy work for the Toyota Parts guy to pull the parts for me. $10 for all 6. For filling the front diff, I used a 3/8" section of tubing, connected one end to the nozzle on the bottle and fed the other end into the case. Then I turned the bottle upside down and poked a hole with an aww (sp) and fed low psi air into the hole to force feed the fluid through the tubing. The xfer case needed about an 8" piece of tubing and just squeeze the fluid into the case. The rear, plain and simple, squeeze into the case. My only regret is not doing it earlier. Thanks for the Write-up.
 
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