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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After owning my tundra for about a month now stereo upgrade has jumped to the forfront of my modifications list.

I would consider myself adept but far from an expert. I installed a bunch of full systems in mine and my buddys cars back in high school and more recently have added some subs to stock bose/infinity systems I have had. I have never added amps for mids and subs to the factory stystem which is what I would like to do here.

1. I want to keep the factory Head Unit for many reasons but mainly I like the look of factory.

2. I have a stockpile of speakers, amps, etc. from old cars that I have the luxury of pulling from.
-Fronts will be JL Audio 6x9s
-Rears will be RF Power 6 1/2 coax.
-Plan on powering the Mids on a 4 channel amp(yet to decide on which one)
-Either 2-10s or 2-12s behind the rear seat.
I will eventually do some components up front but this stuff is sitting in a box and free right now.

My main question lies in the LOC. I see alot of guys use the LC2i with good reviews. My question is this capable of working with a 4 channel for my mids and my subwoofer amp? Or would I be better off using the LC6i. Will both or either allow fade/balance controls? I like the accubass feature in the LC2i, but if the LC6i is the better unit for what I want I dont mind spending extra since I am not putting out any money for the speakers.
So basically if I am planning on running a 4 channel and a mono sub amp which would be the best option?

Also what are you guys using for a decent priced 4 channel amp? Is the JL Audio JX line any good? I know JL is supposed to be good stuff but the price on those amps seems a little too good to be true.

Thanks
 
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Take a look at JL audio xd amps. They are small and compact, but punch a lot of power.
 
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The LC2i will not allow you to have fade between front and rear since it is only a 2 channel LOC. The LC6i will allow you to do what you want to do. I used to have one installed. As you noticed the LC6i does not have accubass. If you want the same thing with accubass and the added feature of a built in equalizer, then the LCQ-1 is what you're looking for. I wound up going to that.
Box Carton Material property Packaging and labeling Rectangle
The problem with stock Toyota decks is that they roll off the bass pretty bad when the volume gets to about the half way point and they increase the treble. You may think that sounds like a high volume setting that you will never approach but it's not and is quite common to go above that when driving as opposed to sitting in your truck in the driveway and listening. Accubass lets you mitigate a certain amount of that but not all of it. The LCQ-1 also gives you the EQ to further shape the sound the way you want it so that's what I would recommend. Of course, a new head unit will give you worlds better sound quality and tuneability and I finally decided to go with a Pioneer AVH-X5500bhs. There is no comparison between it and the stock deck with the LCQ-1.

I would be surprised if the JL 6x9's weren't too deep to fit in the front doors. You can space the window tracks back a quarter to a half inch and use a 1" mounting adapter but they may still be too deep. If you use a taller mounting adapter, you may not be able to get your door panel on. It is generally more accepted to use 6.5" speakers all around and keep the mounting depth under 3".

You can do better for the money than the JX series of amps. The XD series is decent but, again, I think there is better for the money. Take a look at the Precision Power (PPI) Phantom series amps. Very small footprint, class D amps and they run very cool. Less expensive than the JX series and put out more power. Precision Power PPI P900.4 (p9004) 4-Channel Phantom Car Amplifier
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The LC2i will not allow you to have fade between front and rear since it is only a 2 channel LOC. The LC6i will allow you to do what you want to do. I used to have one installed. As you noticed the LC6i does not have accubass. If you want the same thing with accubass and the added feature of a built in equalizer, then the LCQ-1 is what you're looking for. I wound up going to that.
View attachment 41490
The problem with stock Toyota decks is that they roll off the bass pretty bad when the volume gets to about the half way point and they increase the treble. You may think that sounds like a high volume setting that you will never approach but it's not and is quite common to go above that when driving as opposed to sitting in your truck in the driveway and listening. Accubass lets you mitigate a certain amount of that but not all of it. The LCQ-1 also gives you the EQ to further shape the sound the way you want it so that's what I would recommend. Of course, a new head unit will give you worlds better sound quality and tuneability and I finally decided to go with a Pioneer AVH-X5500bhs. There is no comparison between it and the stock deck with the LCQ-1.

I would be surprised if the JL 6x9's weren't too deep to fit in the front doors. You can space the window tracks back a quarter to a half inch and use a 1" mounting adapter but they may still be too deep. If you use a taller mounting adapter, you may not be able to get your door panel on. It is generally more accepted to use 6.5" speakers all around and keep the mounting depth under 3".

You can do better for the money than the JX series of amps. The XD series is decent but, again, I think there is better for the money. Take a look at the Precision Power (PPI) Phantom series amps. Very small footprint, class D amps and they run very cool. Less expensive than the JX series and put out more power. Precision Power PPI P900.4 (p9004) 4-Channel Phantom Car Amplifier
Thanks for the info. That clears some of my confusion up. So in a nutshell the lc2i will work but will not give me fade/balance controls. lcq1 will do everything lc2i does plus fade/balance controls plus a built in EQ.

If the 6x9s dont fit i guess i will get my component set earlier than planned. Have to at least try them since they are not costing me anything though.

Thanks
 
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Yep, you got it. With the LC2i you would just use RCA Y cables to give you four outputs and you can run that to your 4 channel amp. Most 4 channel amps have a set of RCA outs so you can daisy chain your sub amp. The LC6i and the LCQ-1 both have 6 channel outputs so you can run a set of RCA's out to each of your amps. You are going to need a set of adapters for whatever speakers you use in the front doors because the stock 6x9's have mounting tabs that aftermarket speakers don't have. I would take your door panel off and take the stock speaker out and hold the JL 6x9 in the hole or try to find a way to space it so you can see if the window will roll down and everything will clear before you spend $20-$30 on adapters that you'll have to buy again when you go to components.
 
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Yep, you got it. With the LC2i you would just use RCA Y cables to give you four outputs and you can run that to your 4 channel amp. Most 4 channel amps have a set of RCA outs so you can daisy chain your sub amp. The LC6i and the LCQ-1 both have 6 channel outputs so you can run a set of RCA's out to each of your amps. You are going to need a set of adapters for whatever speakers you use in the front doors because the stock 6x9's have mounting tabs that aftermarket speakers don't have. I would take your door panel off and take the stock speaker out and hold the JL 6x9 in the hole or try to find a way to space it so you can see if the window will roll down and everything will clear before you spend $20-$30 on adapters that you'll have to buy again when you go to components.
Cool. Thanks again. I may be leaning towards the lc2i just based on the goals for my system. Unfortunately all my adapters are on thier way so I will just have to see when they get here. I think the mounting depth on the JL's is. 3 7/16ths.
 
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I have JL TR690 installed in my doors. Fit was snug with the door panel but they went in. I used the stock speaker as the mount as many others do. Just cut the old speaker out and use the frame for the JL's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ended up going with the LC7i(which i didn't know existed.) got me my 6 channels and accubass. Also got a Precision Power 4 channel amp to power the mids. Now just have to wait for everything to arrive......
 
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The LC2i will not allow you to have fade between front and rear since it is only a 2 channel LOC. The LC6i will allow you to do what you want to do. I used to have one installed. As you noticed the LC6i does not have accubass. If you want the same thing with accubass and the added feature of a built in equalizer, then the LCQ-1 is what you're looking for. I wound up going to that.
View attachment 41490
The problem with stock Toyota decks is that they roll off the bass pretty bad when the volume gets to about the half way point and they increase the treble. You may think that sounds like a high volume setting that you will never approach but it's not and is quite common to go above that when driving as opposed to sitting in your truck in the driveway and listening. Accubass lets you mitigate a certain amount of that but not all of it. The LCQ-1 also gives you the EQ to further shape the sound the way you want it so that's what I would recommend. Of course, a new head unit will give you worlds better sound quality and tuneability and I finally decided to go with a Pioneer AVH-X5500bhs. There is no comparison between it and the stock deck with the LCQ-1.

I would be surprised if the JL 6x9's weren't too deep to fit in the front doors. You can space the window tracks back a quarter to a half inch and use a 1" mounting adapter but they may still be too deep. If you use a taller mounting adapter, you may not be able to get your door panel on. It is generally more accepted to use 6.5" speakers all around and keep the mounting depth under 3".

You can do better for the money than the JX series of amps. The XD series is decent but, again, I think there is better for the money. Take a look at the Precision Power (PPI) Phantom series amps. Very small footprint, class D amps and they run very cool. Less expensive than the JX series and put out more power. Precision Power PPI P900.4 (p9004) 4-Channel Phantom Car Amplifier
Being as you are running the lcq1 which I plan on running, how would you say setting it up went?

Also, do you know if our front door speakers get a full audio signal? I am asking since we have dash speakers and I am not sure if I can pull signal from the doors or if I have to pull the h-u and get signal there to have full signal...

It isn't sounding right as I read what I typed, but I think you will get what I a trying to ask.
 

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Ended up going with the LC7i(which i didn't know existed.) got me my 6 channels and accubass. Also got a Precision Power 4 channel amp to power the mids. Now just have to wait for everything to arrive......
The waiting is the hardest part I think, well that and finding the time to install.

:lol5:
 

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Being as you are running the lcq1 which I plan on running, how would you say setting it up went?

Also, do you know if our front door speakers get a full audio signal? I am asking since we have dash speakers and I am not sure if I can pull signal from the doors or if I have to pull the h-u and get signal there to have full signal...

It isn't sounding right as I read what I typed, but I think you will get what I a trying to ask.
I'm not running the LCQ-1 anymore. I swapped it out for a Pioneer AVH-X5500bhs deck. When I was running the LCQ-1 there was one pain setting it up that made me call Audiocontrol a couple of times. Since it accepts a wide variety of input wattages, there are jumpers inside that have to be changed otherwise, you get no output. Tuning was relatively easy.

Our door speakers do get a full range signal but I would still pull the head unit and get the signal there. If you are going to use the factory door speaker wiring, I would disconnect the dash speakers and then make sure you find kstateskier's post about installing speakers and how to delete the dash speakers since they are in series with the door speakers and you won't get a signal to the doors if you just unplug the dash speakers.
 
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I'm not running the LCQ-1 anymore. I swapped it out for a Pioneer AVH-X5500bhs deck. When I was running the LCQ-1 there was one pain setting it up that made me call Audiocontrol a couple of times. Since it accepts a wide variety of input wattages, there are jumpers inside that have to be changed otherwise, you get no output. Tuning was relatively easy.

Our door speakers do get a full range signal but I would still pull the head unit and get the signal there. If you are going to use the factory door speaker wiring, I would disconnect the dash speakers and then make sure you find kstateskier's post about installing speakers and how to delete the dash speakers since they are in series with the door speakers and you won't get a signal to the doors if you just unplug the dash speakers.
Yea, it was the jumpers that I was curious about, seems like a pita in the manual...
I am running all new wires from amp to speakers when I install everything.

Thx btw.
 
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