Nice job, keep us posted if the problem returns.
Correction it was the other side, cleared the codes with battery disconnect and tech stream, removed the valve and lubed it up. Lights off problem gone, for the moment anyway.Problem returned, my son just called and it went into limp mode. He took it off and sprayed some sea foam in it and it’s back to normal again. I expect I’ll need to replace it pretty soon though.
explain, please...I really suggest you bypass this thing. If your valves are working, you don't have to install the blockoff plates which makes the kit install just a plug and play system. This will never come back after you bypass it.
Appreciate the in-depth explanation!The Secondary Air Injection system (SAIS) blows air into the exhaust when you first start the truck to dilute the exhaust and meet the EPA requirement for Toyota to call the Tundra a low emissions vehicle. Yes, it does not reduce pollution emissions, it only dilutes the exhaust with fresh air so when they stick a pollution probe in the exhaust, it reads a parts per million pollution standard so the EPA says they can call it a low emission vehicle.
The system started failing a couple years after the 07 generation of Tundra's was introduced, and the cost to repair was several thousand dollars. So, some guys on the Tundra Talk forum figured out how to bypass this system. I am sure if you search, you could find the original thread and read through it and that thread would show you how to build your own bypass kit.
The SAIS system consists of an air pump, two valves that open and close, and some pressure transmitters that are able to sense if the valves are stuck open or closed. The ECM will throw codes and put you in limp mode if any of the valves get stuck open or closed, or if the pump does not work, or the pump stays on.
Basically, they learned that the system only operates when the outside air temperature is above freezing and the engine is cold. They figured out that if they would fool the intake air temperature sensor to believe that the outside air temp was below freezing, then the SAIS system would never operate. And if the valves are closed or blocked off, then the system would never sense that one of the valves were open, and the valves would stay closed, and you would never kick the codes.
So, you can either find that old string and make your own kit, or you can buy a kit from Hewit and install it. Here is a link to the Hewit kit. Secondary Air Bypass Kit: Gen 1 - V54 (Plug & Play) | Hewitt Technologies (hewitt-tech.com)
The make your own kit involves getting a relay that activates when the engine starter is being cranked, which clicks a resistor into the IAT sensor wiring so the ecm reads a temperature that is below freezing, and prevents the system form operating. There are also block off plates (small sheet metal circles) you slip in front of the valve to block off the lines so it does not matter if you valves are stuck open or closed. And you need to tap the activation wire that goes to the starter to activate the relay, and you need to cut into the wiring to add the resistor loop to the IAT circuit.
If you buy the Hewit, it is basically a plug and play kit.
The make your own kit takes a Saturday afternoon of screwing around to make and install, but if you are mechanical, you can do it. I spent some extra time when I did it to tape everything up and make it all look OEM and I hid the relay under the battery area so it was all hidden and out of site.
Last, Toyota revised the SAIS system at some point (prior to 2014 I think) so that the system runs both when you start the truck and when you shut it off, the idea being that moisture in the system was causing the failures, and by running the air pump when you shut the truck off, it would clear the moisture and prevent that failure. All I know is my 15 CM is at 180K and no SAIS failures yet. But I assure you, if it does fail, I am putting a bypass kit on it.