Nice job, keep us posted if the problem returns.
Code P2440 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1
2012 Tundra 4.6 CrewMax 190,000 miles
Anyone ever had any luck taking this off and simply cleaning it up and reinstalling?. Mine was stuck open and when I took it off and fiddle with it a little it closed. I cleaned it up and put it back together. The CEL light and TRAC control light didn't come back on. I wonder how long it will last? Thoughts?
Anyone ever had any luck taking this off and simply cleaning it up and reinstalling?. Mine was stuck open and when I took it off and fiddle with it a little it closed. I cleaned it up and put it back together. The CEL light and TRAC control light didn't come back on. I wonder how long it will last? Thoughts?
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Chances are it is going to happen again. Those things get loads of water in them and end up sticking open, like you experienced. You may have bought some time with the cleaning, but ultimately it’s bound to happen again. I applaud you for doing it though. Let us know how it turns out.
I just had that whole system replaced on my 2008 with 180k miles. Ran about 2800 in parts, 1700 labor.
Honestly, the best thing to do is to bypass this stupid thing. All it does is blow extra air into the exhaust when you first start the engine to dilute the exhaust with air so that when the EPA sticks a probe in the tailpipe to measure the parts per million of pollution, the get a low enough reading to call the engine a low emissions engine. What a scam. You are emitting the same amount of pollution, just diluting it to make the EPA happy.
Just install a bypass kit and block off the valves so this system never turns on again and you will never get another check engine light because of this system. You can buy the kits from Hewitt for $200 or you can make your own for like $15. You will have to search this forum to find the original bypass system design which will tell you exactly how to make one.
Now that you have the system working, install the bypass kit and you will be good to go for the rest of the life of the truck.
Just install a bypass kit and block off the valves so this system never turns on again and you will never get another check engine light because of this system. You can buy the kits from Hewitt for $200 or you can make your own for like $15. You will have to search this forum to find the original bypass system design which will tell you exactly how to make one.
Now that you have the system working, install the bypass kit and you will be good to go for the rest of the life of the truck.
Problem returned, my son just called and it went into limp mode. He took it off and sprayed some sea foam in it and it’s back to normal again. I expect I’ll need to replace it pretty soon though.
Correction it was the other side, cleared the codes with battery disconnect and tech stream, removed the valve and lubed it up. Lights off problem gone, for the moment anyway.Problem returned, my son just called and it went into limp mode. He took it off and sprayed some sea foam in it and it’s back to normal again. I expect I’ll need to replace it pretty soon though.
I really suggest you bypass this thing. If your valves are working, you don't have to install the blockoff plates which makes the kit install just a plug and play system. This will never come back after you bypass it.
explain, please...I really suggest you bypass this thing. If your valves are working, you don't have to install the blockoff plates which makes the kit install just a plug and play system. This will never come back after you bypass it.
The Secondary Air Injection system (SAIS) blows air into the exhaust when you first start the truck to dilute the exhaust and meet the EPA requirement for Toyota to call the Tundra a low emissions vehicle. Yes, it does not reduce pollution emissions, it only dilutes the exhaust with fresh air so when they stick a pollution probe in the exhaust, it reads a parts per million pollution standard so the EPA says they can call it a low emission vehicle.
The system started failing a couple years after the 07 generation of Tundra's was introduced, and the cost to repair was several thousand dollars. So, some guys on the Tundra Talk forum figured out how to bypass this system. I am sure if you search, you could find the original thread and read through it and that thread would show you how to build your own bypass kit.
The SAIS system consists of an air pump, two valves that open and close, and some pressure transmitters that are able to sense if the valves are stuck open or closed. The ECM will throw codes and put you in limp mode if any of the valves get stuck open or closed, or if the pump does not work, or the pump stays on.
Basically, they learned that the system only operates when the outside air temperature is above freezing and the engine is cold. They figured out that if they would fool the intake air temperature sensor to believe that the outside air temp was below freezing, then the SAIS system would never operate. And if the valves are closed or blocked off, then the system would never sense that one of the valves were open, and the valves would stay closed, and you would never kick the codes.
So, you can either find that old string and make your own kit, or you can buy a kit from Hewit and install it. Here is a link to the Hewit kit. Secondary Air Bypass Kit: Gen 1 - V54 (Plug & Play) | Hewitt Technologies (hewitt-tech.com)
The make your own kit involves getting a relay that activates when the engine starter is being cranked, which clicks a resistor into the IAT sensor wiring so the ecm reads a temperature that is below freezing, and prevents the system form operating. There are also block off plates (small sheet metal circles) you slip in front of the valve to block off the lines so it does not matter if you valves are stuck open or closed. And you need to tap the activation wire that goes to the starter to activate the relay, and you need to cut into the wiring to add the resistor loop to the IAT circuit.
If you buy the Hewit, it is basically a plug and play kit.
The make your own kit takes a Saturday afternoon of screwing around to make and install, but if you are mechanical, you can do it. I spent some extra time when I did it to tape everything up and make it all look OEM and I hid the relay under the battery area so it was all hidden and out of site.
Last, Toyota revised the SAIS system at some point (prior to 2014 I think) so that the system runs both when you start the truck and when you shut it off, the idea being that moisture in the system was causing the failures, and by running the air pump when you shut the truck off, it would clear the moisture and prevent that failure. All I know is my 15 CM is at 180K and no SAIS failures yet. But I assure you, if it does fail, I am putting a bypass kit on it.
The system started failing a couple years after the 07 generation of Tundra's was introduced, and the cost to repair was several thousand dollars. So, some guys on the Tundra Talk forum figured out how to bypass this system. I am sure if you search, you could find the original thread and read through it and that thread would show you how to build your own bypass kit.
The SAIS system consists of an air pump, two valves that open and close, and some pressure transmitters that are able to sense if the valves are stuck open or closed. The ECM will throw codes and put you in limp mode if any of the valves get stuck open or closed, or if the pump does not work, or the pump stays on.
Basically, they learned that the system only operates when the outside air temperature is above freezing and the engine is cold. They figured out that if they would fool the intake air temperature sensor to believe that the outside air temp was below freezing, then the SAIS system would never operate. And if the valves are closed or blocked off, then the system would never sense that one of the valves were open, and the valves would stay closed, and you would never kick the codes.
So, you can either find that old string and make your own kit, or you can buy a kit from Hewit and install it. Here is a link to the Hewit kit. Secondary Air Bypass Kit: Gen 1 - V54 (Plug & Play) | Hewitt Technologies (hewitt-tech.com)
The make your own kit involves getting a relay that activates when the engine starter is being cranked, which clicks a resistor into the IAT sensor wiring so the ecm reads a temperature that is below freezing, and prevents the system form operating. There are also block off plates (small sheet metal circles) you slip in front of the valve to block off the lines so it does not matter if you valves are stuck open or closed. And you need to tap the activation wire that goes to the starter to activate the relay, and you need to cut into the wiring to add the resistor loop to the IAT circuit.
If you buy the Hewit, it is basically a plug and play kit.
The make your own kit takes a Saturday afternoon of screwing around to make and install, but if you are mechanical, you can do it. I spent some extra time when I did it to tape everything up and make it all look OEM and I hid the relay under the battery area so it was all hidden and out of site.
Last, Toyota revised the SAIS system at some point (prior to 2014 I think) so that the system runs both when you start the truck and when you shut it off, the idea being that moisture in the system was causing the failures, and by running the air pump when you shut the truck off, it would clear the moisture and prevent that failure. All I know is my 15 CM is at 180K and no SAIS failures yet. But I assure you, if it does fail, I am putting a bypass kit on it.
Appreciate the in-depth explanation!The Secondary Air Injection system (SAIS) blows air into the exhaust when you first start the truck to dilute the exhaust and meet the EPA requirement for Toyota to call the Tundra a low emissions vehicle. Yes, it does not reduce pollution emissions, it only dilutes the exhaust with fresh air so when they stick a pollution probe in the exhaust, it reads a parts per million pollution standard so the EPA says they can call it a low emission vehicle.
The system started failing a couple years after the 07 generation of Tundra's was introduced, and the cost to repair was several thousand dollars. So, some guys on the Tundra Talk forum figured out how to bypass this system. I am sure if you search, you could find the original thread and read through it and that thread would show you how to build your own bypass kit.
The SAIS system consists of an air pump, two valves that open and close, and some pressure transmitters that are able to sense if the valves are stuck open or closed. The ECM will throw codes and put you in limp mode if any of the valves get stuck open or closed, or if the pump does not work, or the pump stays on.
Basically, they learned that the system only operates when the outside air temperature is above freezing and the engine is cold. They figured out that if they would fool the intake air temperature sensor to believe that the outside air temp was below freezing, then the SAIS system would never operate. And if the valves are closed or blocked off, then the system would never sense that one of the valves were open, and the valves would stay closed, and you would never kick the codes.
So, you can either find that old string and make your own kit, or you can buy a kit from Hewit and install it. Here is a link to the Hewit kit. Secondary Air Bypass Kit: Gen 1 - V54 (Plug & Play) | Hewitt Technologies (hewitt-tech.com)
The make your own kit involves getting a relay that activates when the engine starter is being cranked, which clicks a resistor into the IAT sensor wiring so the ecm reads a temperature that is below freezing, and prevents the system form operating. There are also block off plates (small sheet metal circles) you slip in front of the valve to block off the lines so it does not matter if you valves are stuck open or closed. And you need to tap the activation wire that goes to the starter to activate the relay, and you need to cut into the wiring to add the resistor loop to the IAT circuit.
If you buy the Hewit, it is basically a plug and play kit.
The make your own kit takes a Saturday afternoon of screwing around to make and install, but if you are mechanical, you can do it. I spent some extra time when I did it to tape everything up and make it all look OEM and I hid the relay under the battery area so it was all hidden and out of site.
Last, Toyota revised the SAIS system at some point (prior to 2014 I think) so that the system runs both when you start the truck and when you shut it off, the idea being that moisture in the system was causing the failures, and by running the air pump when you shut the truck off, it would clear the moisture and prevent that failure. All I know is my 15 CM is at 180K and no SAIS failures yet. But I assure you, if it does fail, I am putting a bypass kit on it.
Well, my right bank went out again, the valve was stuck open. Against some (much appreciated) advice here, I went with the replacement part instead of the bypass. Partly because I could fix it immediately (local part store had it in stock) and also due to the cost.
The part was a Dorman lifetime warranty replacement for $225.
The bypass was $359 plus a pressure sensor bypass for $200ish. I called Hewit and talked to them about it as well. May have even needed 2 pressure sensors. That would have put me in the $800 zone.
It’s a 2012 with 195,000, and I may be trading it in.
I was in a bind and the truck was staying stuck in limp mode so I did what I did to get back on the road ASAP.
The reviews on the part replacement were about 75% good and 25% really bad. Only time will tell.
I really appreciate the information on this forum and will keep you all updated with honest results so others may benefit from my experience as well.
Thanks everyone!!!
The part was a Dorman lifetime warranty replacement for $225.
The bypass was $359 plus a pressure sensor bypass for $200ish. I called Hewit and talked to them about it as well. May have even needed 2 pressure sensors. That would have put me in the $800 zone.
It’s a 2012 with 195,000, and I may be trading it in.
I was in a bind and the truck was staying stuck in limp mode so I did what I did to get back on the road ASAP.
The reviews on the part replacement were about 75% good and 25% really bad. Only time will tell.
I really appreciate the information on this forum and will keep you all updated with honest results so others may benefit from my experience as well.
Thanks everyone!!!
I must give the Hewitt company props. My Tundra went into limp mode on thursday, ordered this kit friday and it was in my mailbox on monday. So from South Carolina to Seattle area that fast was really nice. Also the kit works flawlessly. This was the second time my air pumps/valves failed. This first time in 2008 and was fixed under warranty. This time the dealer wanted 4K to do the fix. So doing the bypass for 1/10th the price was a fantastic deal. If you are going through this i can recommend this fix.
I will say putting in the exhaust blocking plates would have been easier with the truck on a lift. The drivers side is the worst as it's very tight but watch the video and put your hand through the area they show. Also really wack the exhaust. I thought it was loose enough but then I really laid into it and it got a lot looser. Don't be afraid the lay into it!! The electrical is easy until you get to the bank two/passenger side connection. It is super tight back there.
Again, major thanks to these guys for creating a workaround that works and saves people big money!!
I will say putting in the exhaust blocking plates would have been easier with the truck on a lift. The drivers side is the worst as it's very tight but watch the video and put your hand through the area they show. Also really wack the exhaust. I thought it was loose enough but then I really laid into it and it got a lot looser. Don't be afraid the lay into it!! The electrical is easy until you get to the bank two/passenger side connection. It is super tight back there.
Again, major thanks to these guys for creating a workaround that works and saves people big money!!
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