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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, sorry to be that guy that just joins up and starts a "help!" Thread, but here I am.

Just bought a beautiful 2010 Tundra sr5 5.7, 140k. Was going through it and getting some deferred maintenance. Got to transmissible fluid change and performed this procedure.

Things went semi smoothly besides making a mess. Confident fill level was correct. However, I did let it run for a minute after the fluid stopped pumping out. After finishing I steered to hear a "chirping" noise from from the front passenger side, which has become a steady lower pitched whine.

Is there a pump that I could have burned out? Should I stop driving it until it's resolved?

Thanks in advance, promise to become a productive member from here on out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot to mention, old oil was pretty bad. Could barely see the reddish tint. Also, besides the noise, she was running great and shifting very smooth after the change
 

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Is the squeaking while at idle, does it change with engine speed, occur while in motion? I'm guessing that it's unrelated to the transmission fluid change though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, squeaks at idle and speeds up with RPM. Sprayed the engine off this morning and the squeaking temporarily stopped, thank god. I ordered a new belt and will try to tighten the old one and see. Hopefully it?s an easy fix. Thanks.
 

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Confident fill level was correct. However, I did let it run for a minute after the fluid stopped pumping out.
Did you let it run for a minute without fluid coming out during the level check procedure, or while flushing fluid out of the pan? If you think there is any chance you got air in the system, would it be a good idea to recheck the fluid level after driving? (Now that any air that was in the system has been displaced by fluid.)
 

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Yeah, squeaks at idle and speeds up with RPM. Sprayed the engine off this morning and the squeaking temporarily stopped, thank god. I ordered a new belt and will try to tighten the old one and see. Hopefully it?s an easy fix. Thanks.
It does sound like the belt. There's a belt tension device that dictates the tension, you can't tighten it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I let it run for a minute during the flush. Definitely possible air got in there. I did two fluid level checks; one when it was cool, then another when I got it up to the proper temperature.

Had no belt problems before. If oil got on the tensioner could it cause permanent problems? Do you need to replace it with the belt?

Had no problems with the belt before, would getting oil on it ruin it? I?m hoping just replacing the belt does the job. I?ll try to clean any residual oil off the pulleys.

Thanks guys, much appreciated.
 

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I let it run for a minute during the flush. Definitely possible air got in there. I did two fluid level checks; one when it was cool, then another when I got it up to the proper temperature.

Had no belt problems before. If oil got on the tensioner could it cause permanent problems? Do you need to replace it with the belt?

Had no problems with the belt before, would getting oil on it ruin it? I?m hoping just replacing the belt does the job. I?ll try to clean any residual oil off the pulleys.

Thanks guys, much appreciated.
Your description of how you're checking the fluid level doesn't sound correct, specifically checking the level when cool. It's supposed to be checked at a pretty narrow temperature range. If it's driving and shifting okay, it's probably fine for the moment, from what I've read, if it isn't right it's let you know. It sounds like it's pretty sensitive.

It's probable that the squeak is coincidental, I can't think of any way that an automatic transmission could make a squeaking sound that's RPM related. At 140K the accessory belt should be changed if it hasn't been done before or had become contaminated. Changing the tensioner (Dayco Tensioner: 89378 $40) and idler pulley (Dayco Idler: 89502 $30) is probably a good idea as well while you already have the belt (Serpentine Belt: 90916-02680) removed. It's pretty straightforward, but a little tight to get in there. I changed mine at 60K as one of them was sounding a little raspy.
 

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Since your replacing the belt it would be a good time to lube the pullies.

for the belt and this one for the pullies.....


yah know pretty sure I posted this already and post is gone...strange hmmmmm.....
 

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I let it run for a minute during the flush. Definitely possible air got in there. I did two fluid level checks; one when it was cool, then another when I got it up to the proper temperature.

Had no belt problems before. If oil got on the tensioner could it cause permanent problems? Do you need to replace it with the belt?

Had no problems with the belt before, would getting oil on it ruin it? I?m hoping just replacing the belt does the job. I?ll try to clean any residual oil off the pulleys.

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

A little bit of oil is not going to be a big deal. It's either a belt or a bad pulley on one of the accessories. If you are taking the belt off spin all the accessories and see if any of them are rough or binding. If you have a bad pulley it'll mess up your new belt.
 
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