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Im really hesitate to open my bleeder valve because I've heard stories of it just snapping off. Do I have open the bleed valve when compressing the piston, or can I just open the master cylinder?
It's best to open it. The fluid in your caliper is contaminated and deteriorated from the constant heat cycles brakes are subjected to. I have done it both ways. If the bleaders look rusted shut I say just push the Pistons open with the cap off of the master cylinder.

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Alright thanks! Yeah I'm waiting for my rotors to come in. I think I'm going to swap out the rotors one week, and then bleed the whole system the next week. It hasn't been changed since I got the truck in 2012. You think its possible to bleed the whole system using only 2 jack stands?
 

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Alright thanks! Yeah I'm waiting for my rotors to come in. I think I'm going to swap out the rotors one week, and then bleed the whole system the next week. It hasn't been changed since I got the truck in 2012. You think its possible to bleed the whole system using only 2 jack stands?
It's easier and safer for your master cylinder if you get one of the hand bleeders. It also allows you to do it yourself. Here is what I am talking about. Example only. Some out there better and worse, cheeper and more expensive.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-br...w5xb7nlHQL8ALnvtgwOXVRfbs2uVZNrgh0aApcd8P8HAQ

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You can bleed the system with the truck on the ground and the wheels on. Of course it will be harder to access the bleeder valves.
 

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Can I make one? Like how "ericthecarguy" and "chrisfix" do it? Using a soft drink bottle and a clear tube that connects to the bleeder valve and the bottle?
 

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Yes. You can also purchase a 1-man brake bleeder kit at almost any car parts store and they have a variety of fittings. I think they are around 10 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Spray the valves with some PB Blaster or other type of liquid wrench the day before (or a few times) to help them to loosen more freely.
 

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Anyone know the torque spec on the caliper bolts? Another post said 73 but I was curious as to what you guys torque them to?
 

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I run Hawk lts pads on Centric Powerslot rotors. I replace rotors when I do brakes. They are fairly inexpensive and ensure I don't have go back in for a while. Centric premium rotors are less expensive but still a quality part.

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Where did you order your Cenric rotors from?
Also, did you buy the Centric Premium rotors or drilled & crossed? I can't find anything that says powerslot.
 

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I also like the Centric Premiums. I have them on my Crewmax for the last 40K or so and plenty of life left. I just had them resurfaced to meet up with their second set of pads. On both my last two trucks I swapped rotors with my first brake job because they'd be to the point of vibrating by the time the first set of factory pads was done. The aftermarket rotors would last through several sets of pads though without a hiccup.

When I do a brake job I don't want to have to touch the system for another 4 or 5 years. That means if the rotors are factory or they're worn to the point where I can feel it they have to go.
 

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I also like the Centric Premiums. I have them on my Crewmax for the last 40K or so and plenty of life left. I just had them resurfaced to meet up with their second set of pads. On both my last two trucks I swapped rotors with my first brake job because they'd be to the point of vibrating by the time the first set of factory pads was done. The aftermarket rotors would last through several sets of pads though without a hiccup.

When I do a brake job I don't want to have to touch the system for another 4 or 5 years. That means if the rotors are factory or they're worn to the point where I can feel it they have to go.


That's how I am, after do a brake job, don't wanna mess with for 4-5 years besides brake pads. What pads did you go with?


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That's how I am, after do a brake job, don't wanna mess with for 4-5 years besides brake pads. What pads did you go with?


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Tried Duralast Gold from Autozone. Last time it was Raybestos premium pads from Pep Boys. I usually go for the premium Box store stuff. It gets me 4-5 years of squeal and vibration- free braking.
 
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Tried Duralast Gold from Autozone. Last time it was Raybestos premium pads from Pep Boys. I usually go for the premium Box store stuff. It gets me 4-5 years of squeal and vibration- free braking.
Never of heard of anyone getting the Duralast Gold brake pads or any reviews actually.
 

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Tried Duralast Gold from Autozone. Last time it was Raybestos premium pads from Pep Boys. I usually go for the premium Box store stuff. It gets me 4-5 years of squeal and vibration- free braking.
Because of the lifetime warranty on the pads and 3 year warranty on the rotors, I'm considering Duralast Max pads paired with Duralast Gold rotors. How do you like your Duralast Gold pads?
 

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Because of the lifetime warranty on the pads and 3 year warranty on the rotors, I'm considering Duralast Max pads paired with Duralast Gold rotors.
I ordered these for the front only and will report back. I currently have stock pads and rotors. The rotors have a slight warp and the pads have always squealed upon coming to a stop. Now the front left pad(s) are separating and I get a constant squeal as I drive down the road. I have to constantly tap the brake pedal to shut it up.
 

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So is the big brake kit worth it? What was a great alternative to the big brake kit. I am about to start some super heavy towing and want a little added safety.
 
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