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Discussion Starter #1
I've been going back and forth here- figured let me get a few opinions from others.

I've got 98,000 miles and still on the original pads/rotors. I've got about 1/8" left of pad- so I recently bought some new pads (Hawk LTS) and was going to swap them in. My rotors are in good condition considering the mileage. No big nicks/gouges/etc. The faces are clean, thickness is at 32.18mm and consistent all around (i'm tacking up the few 1/100ths variation to my $15 caliper). The vents are all rusted out - living in the northeast and all- but not deteriorated.

I've had no warping/vibrations/etc- so I was thinking of just sanding them down and throwing on the new pads. I didn't wish to turn them and take a chance of then needing to replace due to warping.

The other option... turn $100 brake job into $500 and buy some new rotors. Obviously that's the better solution- but I'm wondering if it's a 'necessity' or not.
 

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In my experience not necessary. Had a 2008 SR5 with 168,000 miles on it and the rotors were just fine.
 

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When i did my brakes, i originally bought Hawk LTS pads, and they ended up binding, causing the rotor to get extremely hot and make weird noises. Went to a brake shop and the guy told me to try the Centric Posi-Quiet pads, i've had to issues ever since. Just sharing my experience.
 

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Here's my post from 2014 after i did the brake job:

"Well I did a complete brake job on my 07 CM (new factory powder coated calipers, 6-piece goodridge steel braided brake lines, rotors, pads, new brake bleeders, new bolts, new brake clips, and replaced some hard brake lines), and just wanted to pass along some info, maybe it'll help someone. 1st, the goodridge brake lines wouldn't fit properly on the passenger side (2 rear ones), had to get the dremel out and widen the holes they sit in, not a big deal just a pain in the ass because it's a tight space and uncomfortable. 2nd, I got powerslot cryo rotors and hawk lts pads. I had the hawk pads on for 2 weeks (500 miles) & The hawk lts pads were not a good fit. They would bind, over heat the rotors, create a lot of brake dust, and make lots of noise. I read reviews and ask some brake shop guys and they suggested centric posi quiet pads. Took out the hawk pads and put the posi quiet ones, and they worked with no problems. The posi quiet pads also don't have a brake in process, added benefit. And lastly if you're gonna change out brake lines, do yourself a favor and get a set of flare nut wrenches."
 

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I run Hawk lts pads on Centric Powerslot rotors. I replace rotors when I do brakes. They are fairly inexpensive and ensure I don't have go back in for a while. Centric premium rotors are less expensive but still a quality part.

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks all for the replies- I've seen/read many of those other posts. Still a bit torn- leaning towards replacing the rotors only because I've lasted 4 years and what'll be 100,000 miles on the originals- so why not just have the piece of mind on a wear and tear item. The good thing is I've still got life in mine now- pads and rotors- so not an immediate rush and I'll reach out to some vendors for pricing.
 

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Thanks all for the replies- I've seen/read many of those other posts. Still a bit torn- leaning towards replacing the rotors only because I've lasted 4 years and what'll be 100,000 miles on the originals- so why not just have the piece of mind on a wear and tear item. The good thing is I've still got life in mine now- pads and rotors- so not an immediate rush and I'll reach out to some vendors for pricing.
Make sure to actually measure the rotor thickness using a micrometer. Using a caliper does not account for the fact that the rotor will have a small lip on both sides around the outside diameter, due to the fact that the pads run just slightly under and leave this lip as the rotor wears. With calipers, you are measuring the lip. With a mic, you can measure the true rotor thickness in the middle.. Just looking smooth is not enough. I'm very surprised that with 100k miles the rotors are in such great shape, but even with no scoring, a thin rotor does not deal with the heat as well, and is more prone to warping.

I've had the Centric Powerslot Cryo rotors and Hawk LTS pads on for almost 20,000 miles now, and I love the rotors, not crazy about the pads. But regardless, they seem to be wearing like iron, so I will see how long they last. I get a few squeaks here and there from the pads under light braking, which I am not a fan of, and while normal braking feels exactly the same as before when I had factory brakes, when towing it feels 100% better, and sheds the heat very well. I tow a lot of heavy stuff without trailer brakes, and getting the slotted rotors and the Hawk LTS pads makes a noticeable difference.
 

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I would never put new pads on a used rotor without at least turning them. Any surface imperfections will wear into the new pads. Also the heat from braking will normally glaze or harden the surface and cause the new pads not to bite as effectively. I normally change rotors when I change brakes. I consider them wear items. I've used powerstop brake kits on other vehicles and have had great success. I priced them for the tundra a while back and it was around $400 for new rotors, pads, and any hardware needed. Can't beat that.
 

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How are your guys rotors holding up against rust? I know they will eventually rust, but Im trying to find rotors that will hold off on that rust for as long as it can.
 

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i have never changed the rotors when changing pads in the past... and don't plan on doing it with this truck either. i've never had issues... take for granted i've never put over 100,000 miles on a truck.
 

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How are your guys rotors holding up against rust? I know they will eventually rust, but Im trying to find rotors that will hold off on that rust for as long as it can.
The wearing surface rusts if I don't drive it for a while but comes off on the next drive. The "hat" of the rotor and fins are rust free which after 3 +years in the Northeast is saying something.

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Discussion Starter #14
The wearing surface rusts if I don't drive it for a while but comes off on the next drive. The "hat" of the rotor and fins are rust free which after 3 +years in the Northeast is saying something.

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Those being the centric's?

my OEM's after 4 years are quite rusted- the vents. Faces are clean, but it's my daily driver.
 

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Yes Centric Power Slot. Their Premiums feature the same coating as the powerslots.

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Discussion Starter #16
Ended up ordering new rotors- the stoptech cyro drilled. I ultimately decided that the OEM have lasted quite a while and I've gotten good life out of them- so therefore my monies worth as well. I'll go all new here and then know that I'm set up for the next few years and never have a worry or care.

Only reason I didn't go back to OEM was to try something new and see how much of a difference there really is. At this point- what's another $100 at the end of the day- so let's get some improvement out of the system and be done with it.

I was originally planning to swap out the pads this weekend while doing my suspension, but now with a pending nor'easter.... maybe this'll become a holiday weekend project allowing my rotors to arrive in time as well.
 

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Just a couple questions about the install?
Do I have to remove any clips or bolts on the break line to get more space to move the caliper around?
Also do I have to grease the pins? I thought the front brakes had caliper pins like the rear so I bought a bottle of silicone paste. I wasted 20 bucks!
 

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I think you made a good choise. There are slides that need to be lubed. The brake lines do not need to be removed. You will want to Crack the bleeder when you push the Pistons in to make room for the new pads. I use an old piece of fuel hose on the nipple of the bleeder to direct the fluid to a jar to avoid a mess. Good luck with it. I will be doing the brakes on my wife's Sienna next weekend. I was kinda bummed that Hawk does not make pads for a Sienna. I ended up going with ebc Green Stuff pads and Centric Cryo Power Slot rotors.

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Im really hesitate to open my bleeder valve because I've heard stories of it just snapping off. Do I have open the bleed valve when compressing the piston, or can I just open the master cylinder?
 
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