Some aftermarket parts are reliable, but it's definitely on a case by case basis. I'd first try and figure out what caused the problem before replacing parts, and if you're going through all the time to take it apart, I'd absolutely replace all valves and not just the ones that failed.
Broken intake valve spring
English is not my native language so please bare with me!
I am helping a friend that bought a Tundra 2008 nice looking and less than100.000 miles. After 2 month one cold morning he was cranking the engine and heard a mechanical noice and engine stopped. So I took it to my garage to help him with it.
Checked with a borescope and see crashed valves, pulled the engine and removed the driver side cylinder head. Two intake valves broken, seat fall off and one valve guide broken. Engine block is fine
took out the piston that had minor marks on the top. Found a crack in the piston so it will be replaced with new rings.
Glad the engine was just fired up and if the engine rev was higher the block would probably be toast.
So my option is to buy a refurbished head from US that do not need a core. Or get the valves and springs do some welding and repair the head here?
So since I have not worked on this type of engine earlier I wonder if anyone can answer my other questions;
1, Planning to change timing chain and tensioners while doing this, there are many options like from Spark Automotive (cheep), the MELLING or is it only original expensive Toyota parts recommended ?
2, Should I replace the other side valve springs? I will do a valve job on the side so both will be 100 %.
3, I will get a original piston and rings to replace that bad one.
all what I can think of for now. Thanks for any help!
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I am helping a friend that bought a Tundra 2008 nice looking and less than100.000 miles. After 2 month one cold morning he was cranking the engine and heard a mechanical noice and engine stopped. So I took it to my garage to help him with it.
Checked with a borescope and see crashed valves, pulled the engine and removed the driver side cylinder head. Two intake valves broken, seat fall off and one valve guide broken. Engine block is fine
took out the piston that had minor marks on the top. Found a crack in the piston so it will be replaced with new rings.Glad the engine was just fired up and if the engine rev was higher the block would probably be toast.
So my option is to buy a refurbished head from US that do not need a core. Or get the valves and springs do some welding and repair the head here?
So since I have not worked on this type of engine earlier I wonder if anyone can answer my other questions;
1, Planning to change timing chain and tensioners while doing this, there are many options like from Spark Automotive (cheep), the MELLING or is it only original expensive Toyota parts recommended ?
2, Should I replace the other side valve springs? I will do a valve job on the side so both will be 100 %.
3, I will get a original piston and rings to replace that bad one.
all what I can think of for now. Thanks for any help!
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One spring had broke, letting the valve to hit the piston after the keeper had falling off. So the plan is to ge a new cylinder head and replace the valve springs on the other side.
Thanks
Thx, its my private garage for my hobby cars
The piston had minor damage on top but when removed it had cracks. The cylinder & block are ok and not damaged
I have decided to fix the old head with welding and new seats & valve guides to save time. I will also change all valve springs. So glad his engine broke while cranking and this probably saved the engine block.
Thanks for all inputs here, but will do the welding and repairing of the cylinder head to save time. Did some checking ..... The timing chain(s) elongation where within spec. Piston rings end gap ok, crank ok but the rod was bent by this mishap So will order 1 new rod but can't order the bearing until I see the number stamped on the new rod!
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You clearly see how it is bent, so glad the crank & engine block was ok
So will order 1 new rod but can't order the bearing until I see the number stamped on the new rod!
You clearly see how it is bent, so glad the crank & engine block was ok
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