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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just got home last night with my brand new 4x4 XSP Double Cab Tundra. The information on detailing here is overwhelming! I am now selling my 19 year old black 4x4 Tacoma with the TRD Off Road. The paint still looks pretty good for the age. For probably the last 10 years or so..... I have washed it using mostly Dawn dishwashing liquid soap, and waxed it only once a year. I'm guessing I just gave a few of you a heart attack! :eek:

Now with this new Tundra..... I asked the salesman about keeping it clean, and how often to wax it. He told me NOT to wax it..... maybe for like 5 years, because the wax will magnify the sun on the paint, and do more harm to it. Now...... I'm not exactly buying that. Terrible advice?

Really..... I have 50 million things to do. Free time is scarce, and I am not crazy about my vehicle's appearance being meticulously maintained at all times. I absolutely want to keep this truck for a very long time (again.... looking at the 20 year range, since I only put on about 8,000 miles a year), and want to do a better job on it than I did on my Tacoma.

This will not fit in my garage, and will sit outside in the Florida sun. I am also about 6 miles or so from the saltwater in the bay, and maybe 12 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, but I'm not sure that is having any negative affect on our vehicles?

Looking for some advice..... what are your minimum requirements as far as waxing, washing, etc.... I would like to do my cleaning in as few steps as possible. Washing it? One wash. Waxing it? One coat. Do they sell sufficient products at, say, AutoZone?

Here are attached pics of my Dawn dishwashing liquid-washed, 19 year old Tacoma, and my new Tundra:
 

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I moved your post here so you'd get a little more action.

What the salesman told you has to be one of the craziest things I've heard in quite awhile. I wish these guys would just say "I don't know, but let me find out for you", instead of making up such nonsense.

Im in Florida too (east coast), and mine lives outside as well. If you're looking for a simple solution that requires little effort, look at coating your new truck with Optimum Opti Coat 2.0. This is a 1-2 year, semi permanent paint sealant. Application is extremely simple. If you are not into detailing, take your truck to a professional and have them do a paint correction and apply Optic Coat. Stay away from the dealer at all costs when it pertains to detailing. 9.9 out of 10 times they are total hacks. I would highly suggest, especially with black, to stay clear of their courtesy wash after oil changes. That is where most of your damage will come from.

Washing with Dawn is not the best idea. Dawns high alkaline content with strip any layer of wax you have applied. You can find a nice wash solution at any AutoZone like Mothers Gold Class. Buy yourself a nice wash mitt and some quality microfiber towels to get you started. Todays factory paints are not as durable as they used to be. Get that thing waxed and keep it waxed :)

Let us know what you come up with.
 

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Jumbo is correct in all he said. An easy wax to use yourself that won't turn trim white is meguiars ultimate liquid wax. Mothers or meguiars are both same brands for whatever you need from an auto store. Both have multiple line ups and levels to fit your needs.

Dawn is definitely not the right thing to use for newer vehicles. They have changed the paints a lot over the years and paint is generally "softer" now and not as good for all brands due to EPA regulations.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. Based on some research on this forum, I was leaning toward Meguiar's NXT Next Gen Tech Wax 2.0. OR..... would the Ultimate Liquid Wax mentioned above be better for me?

Also..... how soon should I wax it after purchase (it beads up nicely right now in the rain), and how many times a year, at an absolute minimum based on my situation?
 

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Im in Florida too (east coast), and mine lives outside as well. If you're looking for a simple solution that requires little effort, look at coating your new truck with Optimum Opti Coat 2.0. This is a 1-2 year, semi permanent paint sealant. Application is extremely simple. If you are not into detailing, take your truck to a professional and have them do a paint correction and apply Optic Coat.
Would you happen to know how expensive this is? I am also ont the East coast of Florida(Space Coast) and someone told me about some wax that lasted for a few years and it was about $500.
 

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The salesman is nuts... Maintaining the paint is very important. Having said that, Dawn has its place...just not for every wash. Every once in a while -- once a year most of the time -- I like to strip away the old wax layers with a Dawn wash before starting a clay bar, polish, wax/sealant routine. The use of a specific wax, or more recently paint sealant, is less important than just picking one and using it regularly. I've had good luck with Zaino over the years, but it's pretty pricey. With my latest Tundra, I'm trying out Adams Paint Sealant.

Dave
 

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Thanks. Based on some research on this forum, I was leaning toward Meguiar's NXT Next Gen Tech Wax 2.0. OR..... would the Ultimate Liquid Wax mentioned above be better for me?

Also..... how soon should I wax it after purchase (it beads up nicely right now in the rain), and how many times a year, at an absolute minimum based on my situation?
Ultimate series including ultimate liquid is the modified NXT line that's enhanced to be better. Only wax I have used out for 15+ to not stain black trim is ultimate liquid. The ultimate paste version even stains trim. I used a $40 wax that was smaller container in a previous vehicle and like this better.

Can was as soon as you want to the best on my knowledge. Give t a good cleaning. Dry it off then wax. Get another layer of protection before anything can get to the paint.
 

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Also..... how soon should I wax it after purchase (it beads up nicely right now in the rain), and how many times a year, at an absolute minimum based on my situation?
You can wax it the second you get it home. The reason its beading so well right now is that the paint has not been weathered with defects that would clog up the water on its surface. The clear coat is still nice and smooth, so water will bead up and sheet off easily.

I did a light polish and applied Opti Coat Pro on my truck the day after I brought it home. I would have done it on day one, but my Xpel installer was wrapping the front. By the time you get the truck home, the paint is as cured as its going to get, so wash, polish and wax right away if you'd like.

If you want an easy to apply and remove sealant, look at Menzerna PowerLock or Zaino Z-2. Both are relatively inexpensive. Someone earlier mentioned Zaino is expensive, but its only $16 a bottle. Menzerna will be about the same. Either of those two will give you a solid 4-6 months of beading protection in Florida weather. Opti Coat will be around $80 for a 10cc syringe, but that will give you a good year in Florida, maybe more if garage kept.
 

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Would you happen to know how expensive this is? I am also ont the East coast of Florida(Space Coast) and someone told me about some wax that lasted for a few years and it was about $500.
Optimum Paint Coating

$60 and extremely easy to apply. The 20cc syringe is $100, the 10cc syringe is more than enough for 2-3 vehicles. You should expect around 10-12 months of solid protection in Florida.
 

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Optimum Paint Coating

$60 and extremely easy to apply. The 20cc syringe is $100, the 10cc syringe is more than enough for 2-3 vehicles. You should expect around 10-12 months of solid protection in Florida.
Whats an "ipa solution"?

I have not waxed my truck yet, but used Mothers wax/wash last wash. Did a surprisingly good job at making it shine more than before. I only bought it as my favorite wash soap is apparently nla, and my last bottle is done.
 

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Do it now!

I always told myself the next new truck that I got I would get started early on waxing/protecting the vehicle. I brought my Tundra home on a Friday and spent the rest of the weekend waxing, protecting the interior, and putting a coat of Fluid Film underneath the truck. Overkill, maybe, but like everyone else my time is valuable and I knew if I put it off until later then it may not happen.

It has definitely made a difference in the appearance of the truck and spending the extra time that first weekend has saved me a lot of time and effort in the long run. Take the time to do it now and you will thank yourself later.

And yes, the salesman is an idiot!
 

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Whats an "ipa solution"?

I have not waxed my truck yet, but used Mothers wax/wash last wash. Did a surprisingly good job at making it shine more than before. I only bought it as my favorite wash soap is apparently nla, and my last bottle is done.
IPA solution is Isopropyl Alcohol. We mix IPA with water, usually 50/50. After you wash/clay and polish, you'll use an IPA solution to remove any oils left over from the polishes. Depending on your choice of final sealant, you'll need a perfectly clean surface for the sealant to properly bond. So for this reason, we'll mix the IPA solution in a spray bottle and lightly mist the panel and wipe clean with a MF.

Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks guys. I ordered the Maguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax. I'm thinking a coat in the early spring, one in middle of summer, and one more in the late fall should be sufficient. Yes?

Looking at this stuff for pre-wash bug removal. Does it actually work? I have doubts.

1Z Einszett Anti-Insekt Bug + Tar Remover

I already have a fairly new bottle of Armor All for the dash..... don't see any reason it wouldn't do a good job protecting it.

What about things like the black plastic on the bumpers and mirrors? The blacked out badging & Tundra inlays in the tailgate? The Predator step running boards and black metal from grill (sure to get splattered with bugs)? ....and the chrome? ( I have an OLD bottle of Turtle Wax Chrome Polish which still worked just fine on my Tacoma) Do you do anything to the wheels?

What are my easiest solutions for these areas. I really need to do as good a job on these things as I do the paint. Thanks! The advice here is great.
 

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At which step in the process would a traditional paint sealant fall in line when using Optimum Coating? Or is it not necessary?
 

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At which step in the process would a traditional paint sealant fall in line when using Optimum Coating? Or is it not necessary?

Opti Coat will be your final step. There is no need to apply a top coat other than for fun or to keep the slickness factor going. I do it just for fun. I top my Opti Coat with PowerLock every few months just for fun.
 

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$500? Wow, that's cheap. Would cost me $600+ to do my Crewmax.
I have a crewmax and he charges $500. I talked to him yesterday but he said he uses a product called Pearl Nano Hydroponic Ceramic Coating and it only has a 2 year warranty. This was for the protection on the paint, black trim and windows.
 

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I have a crewmax and he charges $500. I talked to him yesterday but he said he uses a product called Pearl Nano Hydroponic Ceramic Coating and it only has a 2 year warranty. This was for the protection on the paint, black trim and windows.
not bad. Correction, I was told "starting" at $700, price may be higher depending on how much paint correction is needed. Product being used would be Nanoskin Mega Trend, with 3 year warranty. Not sure if he would do the trim and windows though, as the trim is good as it is, and I already have a coating on the windows.
 

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not bad. Correction, I was told "starting" at $700, price may be higher depending on how much paint correction is needed. Product being used would be Nanoskin Mega Trend, with 3 year warranty. Not sure if he would do the trim and windows though, as the trim is good as it is, and I already have a coating on the windows.
With me living in Florida it is important to me that the trim doesn't fade. The opti plus I was quoted $900 and that is a 7 year warranty. I am not sure if I can fork over that kind of $$. For that I could have my headers!!!
 

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