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I have no scientific data to back this up but, I think it’s the pad compound that Toyota uses that causes the rotors to “warp” or feel warped from pad deposits onto the rotor. I put organic pads on mine when I replaced the rotors. It stops so much better now. I felt the braking vibrations for the past 10k miles and progressively got worse until I took care of it.
I never hold the brake after stopping on a really hard stop. I'll shift into park. High temps and holding the brake will definitely transfer pad material to the rotor. My penny.
 

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there is no way these should be warping with 30-35K

its bullshit

Im guessing they will try to turn them and that will band-aid it for a bit and then be all messed up again in 5 miles.
For those that do their own brakes, I noted recently in the Service Repair Manual that brake rotors should be match-marked for re-installation in exactly the same location.

I also noted that maximum allowable run-out on Tundra front rotors is 0.05 mm (0.002"), and maximum allowable runout on rear rotors is 0.2 mm (0.008") 0.008". Runout is measured using a dial indicator rigged from a magnetic base attached to a solid stationary suspension component, stylus on the rotor face. This is after the rotor has been installed with lug nuts torqued to exactly the values specified for the wheels.

An interesting recommendation was that if you find the run-out exceeds specification, then the rotor should be removed, rotated 1/5 turn to the next lug, re-torqued, and run-out measured again. You keep rotating to the next lug until you've tried them all, the implication being that run-out may be acceptable at another lug location. Of course, if a rotor is truly and fully warped, it's not going to meet spec anywhere. This trial process would be tedious for an owner; I can't see dealer technicians taking the time.
 

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On a side note, when I replaced my OEM rear rotors, I noticed the parking brake shoes wore away an easy 1/32 or the rotor surface on the drivers side. Obviously Toyota didn’t have that adjusted correctly from the get go. Just something else to watch out for.
 

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took it in and it was raining so I knew it might be trouble on the test drive. Im guessing the wet raining conditions threw everything off as it only happens when they heat up after your driving around for a while.

so I ended up with a "couldn't duplicate, 7mm on all the brakes and everything is fine".

oh boy.

I did get my oil changed and new wiper blades, woo hoo.

for grins I called another Toyota dealer and they want 550 bucks for fronts only.
 

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took it in and it was raining so I knew it might be trouble on the test drive. Im guessing the wet raining conditions threw everything off as it only happens when they heat up after your driving around for a while.

so I ended up with a "couldn't duplicate, 7mm on all the brakes and everything is fine".

oh boy.

I did get my oil changed and new wiper blades, woo hoo.

for grins I called another Toyota dealer and they want 550 bucks for fronts only.
Like I said above, and have read an article about it or two, I think the problem with the Toyota OEM pads is they transfer pad material onto the rotor surface making the rotor feel as it is warped, but in reality, it’s the pads that are extra “grabby” on portions of the rotor that have had that extra pad material. Unfortunately, you’ll need to have them turned now to get that off them, or buy go new. I did all 4 rotors and pads, autozone brand, for less than $250...on sale and shipped for free. I also read that organic pads are less prone to pad transfer on the rotors, which is what I went with this time. Time will tell.
 

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...so I ended up with a "couldn't duplicate, 7mm on all the brakes and everything is fine".

oh boy...
That must be the thickness of the pads; 7 mm is more than 1/4 inch. More than half your pad life remains. New pads are 11.9 mm or 0.469" thick.

If they were trying to diagnose customer complaint of shudder (warped rotors), runout of the rotor face is what they need to measure. It's a waste of time to measure the pad thickness.

What I posted before was correct only for the rear rotors. Runout spec for the front rotors is MUCH tighter. (Will edit my post.)

Max allowable runout on front rotors: 0.05 mm (0.002") :whoa:
Max allowable runout on rear rotors: 0.2 mm (0.008")
 
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Like I said above, and have read an article about it or two, I think the problem with the Toyota OEM pads is they transfer pad material onto the rotor surface making the rotor feel as it is warped, but in reality, it’s the pads that are extra “grabby” on portions of the rotor that have had that extra pad material. Unfortunately, you’ll need to have them turned now to get that off them, or buy go new. I did all 4 rotors and pads, autozone brand, for less than $250...on sale and shipped for free. I also read that organic pads are less prone to pad transfer on the rotors, which is what I went with this time. Time will tell.
The last autozone brakes I installed where on a Honda van and they were the worst set of brakes I'd ever used. Horrible. I've never bought any since. I had to take them off less than a week later. Took them back to the store and the guy at the counter said about everyone that buys them... brings them back.
 

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Ive had mine on for a couple weeks now...no squeals or sqeaks from them. I was on the fence about going the Autozone route, but so far, I’ve had a good experience with them. I do mainly city driving so they have seen their fair share of stop and go traffic already. For sub $250, lifetime pads and 2 yr warranty for the rotors...Its hard to turn that down. Like I said, time will tell.
 

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Ive had mine on for a couple weeks now...no squeals or sqeaks from them. I was on the fence about going the Autozone route, but so far, I’ve had a good experience with them. I do mainly city driving so they have seen their fair share of stop and go traffic already. For sub $250, lifetime pads and 2 yr warranty for the rotors...Its hard to turn that down. Like I said, time will tell.
Anyone have a link to those for 250?

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Ive had mine on for a couple weeks now...no squeals or sqeaks from them. I was on the fence about going the Autozone route, but so far, I’ve had a good experience with them. I do mainly city driving so they have seen their fair share of stop and go traffic already. For sub $250, lifetime pads and 2 yr warranty for the rotors...Its hard to turn that down. Like I said, time will tell.
Anyone have a link to those for 250?

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To get that price, you have order them online and ship to your house. You’ll get 20% off and free shipping. Everything was on my doorstep the following day.

Just remember it’s all in the details when replacing these items. Makes sure the face of the hub is cleaned off with a wire wheel or something similar to remove all the buildup between the back of the rotor and the hub. Make sure you clean the inside face of the wheel where it meets up with the outside of the rotor. All the faces need to be clean and free of rust buildup.

I reused the brake pad backing plates from the Toyota OEM pads as I thought they were nicer than the Autozone backing plates. Just a very minute amount of caliper grease between the plates and the pad, good to go. And at the end, make sure you torque your wheels properly, can’t stress that one enough.

Also, make sure to check and adjust the parking brake pads. My drivers side was way too tight from the factory and actually wore a groove in the rotor. Passenger side was fine.

My truck no longer has the steering wheel shakes and stops great. Again, it’s all in the details.
 

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Ive had mine on for a couple weeks now...no squeals or sqeaks from them. I was on the fence about going the Autozone route, but so far, I’ve had a good experience with them. I do mainly city driving so they have seen their fair share of stop and go traffic already. For sub $250, lifetime pads and 2 yr warranty for the rotors...Its hard to turn that down. Like I said, time will tell.
Great! Hope they work for you. I might have to try them again.
 

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The last autozone brakes I installed where on a Honda van and they were the worst set of brakes I'd ever used. Horrible. I've never bought any since. I had to take them off less than a week later. Took them back to the store and the guy at the counter said about everyone that buys them... brings them back.
I used to service a shop that worked only on Hondas. This has been over 20 years ago, but it was also one heck of a shop and he was considered the best in OKC! That being said, Honda used to have a horrific problem with brakes, the primary cause of the problem back then was outlawing asbestos. There are going to be a lot of different substances and combinations of those substances, there will be pros and cons to every one of those different formulas to, as there always is.
 

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Had to change out rear brakes on a '10 with about 30k on it a few weeks back. Whoever was on the rotary grinder when they finished the factory rotors messed up big time. On the (hidden by dust shield) back faces of both rear rotors they had at least 0.200" ground down at both outer and inner edges, far enough in that the pads only contacted less than an inch of flat surface. Imagine the rotor's braking surface having concentric rings like a target, with a recessed ring of rust about 1/2" wide from the outer edge, and a recessed ring of rust about an inch wide from the inner edge, with a raised clean ring between them. The inner pads on both sides were down to bare metal in that sub-1" strip and as they wore the rust apparently chewed the other areas of pad before they could apply any real pressure to clean it. However on the outer edge it would appear in a quick inspection that there was still pad left, albeit getting low, with far less wear on the outer pads. New OEM rotors were ground as would be expected so the problem won't happen again.

That's the first "Friday" part I've ever found on a Toyota. Anyone else run into this?
hey I found a picture of those rotors in a backup. Looks like they weren't undercut quite as far as I thought I remembered but they were still pretty messed up. Must have measured the rust in internet inches
 

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Im currently trying to figure what to do about my rotors, they are warped Toyota wants 500 bucks for the front only rotors pads, etc.

Im looking at EBC but no-one around here will install them if you bring parts in.

one shop which is pretty reputable says they offer 5 year 50 miles warranty on brakes so if they warp you get new ones, I thought that was pretty good. They use these I think

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-select-drum-rotor-hub-2926/brake-systems-16456/brake-drums-rotors-16509/brake-rotor-11306/d133f11235f8/brakebest-select-brake-rotor/980583rgs/2547002/2016/toyota/tundra?pos=0

still researching.
 

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I’ve got around 40,000 on my set of powerstops with zero issues and still plenty of life left. Much better than the oem Toyota brakes.

My wife’s sequoia has around 50,000 on her powestops also with no issues.



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which ones do you have?

Id have to find a shop will to put them on.
 

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My 2016 crewmax truck just passed 35k miles and i got 2mm left on my pads so time to start looking for new ones. I drive it pretty hard so not complaining. I am going to look into those powerstops.
 

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Im currently trying to figure what to do about my rotors, they are warped Toyota wants 500 bucks for the front only rotors pads, etc.

Im looking at EBC but no-one around here will install them if you bring parts in.

one shop which is pretty reputable says they offer 5 year 50 miles warranty on brakes so if they warp you get new ones, I thought that was pretty good. They use these I think

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-select-drum-rotor-hub-2926/brake-systems-16456/brake-drums-rotors-16509/brake-rotor-11306/d133f11235f8/brakebest-select-brake-rotor/980583rgs/2547002/2016/toyota/tundra?pos=0

still researching.


Look on eBay. I bought a front brake kit from a Toyota dealer (thinking they were in TN), 2 rotors and pads. Used one of those 20% eBay deals and got everything for around $175 shipped.
 
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