No, all my toyos (from camry to Lexus in the house) had 90-100k before brakes were changes. Maybe yours were sticking?


“Don’t overthink something simple people... ..:sigh:..”

 

I have had something like 9 Toyotas. That includes the 3 now in the driveway. I have routinely seen this kind of mileage ^^^ on Mama Toyota factory/OEM front brake pads. On my 1997 T-100 I replaced the front pads at 109,079 miles, then replaced them again at 200,500 with a reasonable amount of miles still to go on the pads. Rear are drums and still on the stock shoes at 247,111 miles.

 

My 2013 Tundra failed annual inspection due to worn brakes. Truck only has 40,000 on it, seems a little early for brakes to me...

As others have said, Toyota's brakes last a long time. My first Toyota was a first gen 4Runner; put 178K on, changed the front pads once, and finally just gave up trying to wear out the rear shoes and replaced them with a rear wheel bearing at about 150K.

Assuming you've had the truck since new, it hasn't been abused, and I'm sure that pulling that small trailer with a lawn tractor didn't wear your brakes out. Further, I find it improbable that sticking calipers would cause all corners to wear out at the same time, but you do live in the land of snow.

So...I'm guessing you had them change the brakes to get that inspection sticker without bothering to have the tech show you how badly they were worn? "Trust, but verify".

 

It's an 18 foot trailer with a Kubota B2650 and usually a 4 foot tiller or a 5 foot bush hog. Probably in the neighborhood of 5000 pounds with trailer and load.

Mechanic is an old Navy buddy. We both retired at about the same time and have known each other for 30 years. And yes he DID show me the pad wear indicators. Originally thought the rotors were good, but apparently they're on the thin side and grooved pretty badly.

 

I changed mine at 60k on my tundra and Sequoia. The Tundra should have been changed sooner, but I never got around to it. I tow a lot with my truck so it’s expected. And the bigger tires don’t help either.


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My 2014 1794 4x4 has 37k on the odo and the fronts seem to be good but the rear rotors are in pretty bad shape and making a slight squeaking noise I can hear when rolling at a slow speed. Driving me crazy.. so I just ordered a F/R full set of R1 concept rotors and ceramic pads for under $200. From what I've read a lot of people have problems with factory rotors warping. I tow my boat about 15 miles round trip at the most and it has surge brakes. Also, I remember reading somewhere online.. maybe caranddriver, that the brakes are one of the tundra's weak points but I've personally never had trouble stopping when I need to. Wish I had the money for the TRD BBK!!!

 

I haul around a tractor and equip trailer.
I still had plenty of life left in the pads/rotors and the trailer has brakes, but I switched to slotted/drilled rotors and Hawk pads upfront.
Does your trailer have brakes?
If not, or they're not working properly, an extra 6000# will wear out brakes in no time.

 

Trailer does have brakes and I check the controller and set the gain to match the load on each haul. Crank it up until I can feel the trailer hauling the truck down.

However, I must be the first to admit my driving habits are NOT conducive to long brake life. Patience is not one of my many admirable traits...

 

A lot of that is going to depend on driving habits. As some people do not necessarily think that you either need to be on the gas or on the brake. I watch the flow of traffic, if I am coming up on a congested area I take my foot off of the accelerator and coast. I know lots of people capable of doing this and I also know a lot of people incapable of doing such. My sister-in-law had a 2003 Suburban that had almost 300K before the OEM brakes were changed. I had a 2003 GMC 2500HD that I sold with OEM brakes, still over half the life left. Pulling heavy objects will have a toll on the outcome as well, or can. Over the years I have noticed on more than one occasion people who ride their brakes all the time. Using an up-hill to scrub off speed helps as well. All your habits, good or bad, will factor in to the end results.......

 

My only lasted till 30K. Rotors warped and I was having front end/steering wheel shimmy under braking. Haul stuff but no major towing on steep mountain roads and highways. I've been told it is fairly common for Tundras to need front rotors and pads in the 25k-35k range. Shouldn't happen but does.

 

I've been told it is fairly common for Tundras to need front rotors and pads in the 25k-35k range.

Both my 2011 and 2015 were brake issue-free at 3 yrs/30k mi. And I haven't heard much about warped rotors and premature brake wear until recently.
Perhaps it's more common in the last year or 2. Not sure. But it was never something I experienced or heard about until recently.

 

I have always had factory stuff needing work at like 40k. That was the case on my Dakota and my Tundra.


I get more like 60-plus out if aftermarket brake setups Lots of stop and go and I am generally hard on brakes. A lot of don't even realize how much their driving style wears brake pads and rotors down. Best combo I ever had was premium raybestos rotors and Bendix titanium pads on my 04 Dakota. After 4 years and 50k the mechanic was amazed at how new everything still looked. I wanted those pads for the Crewmax but couldn't find them. Probably could have easily gotten 100k out of them.

 

NOT the end of the world and probl the first dollar on maint spent ( other than oil changes )

Ps. I would have put rotors on it , both rust edges on both sides = lost square inches of braking surface .

Ps. #2 . The truck weighs 6400# alone . But not as heavy as the cummins 3/4 tons im used to coming in at 7600+ pounds

 

I am around 55k and need new brake pads and the dealership is telling me my rotors are somewhat warped.

Would I be better off in the long run just replacing them with something else (pads and rotors)?

 

As much as they charge to turn rotors now I just buy new rotors. If a caliper appears like it might be having issues, sticking or could potentially stick........I get new calipers to. Get all your new parts on, I start by using a big syringe to siphon the reservoir almost empty, fill with the correct, new brake fluid, then bleed the system accordingly (usually it is the furthest point from the reservoir and work your way closer) and bleed each wheel until fresh fluid is coming out and there are no bubbles or air pockets. This may sound like it costs a lot, but if you do the work yourself it usually isn't that bad. When you inspect your calipers, before you push the piston back in, make sure that piston is as clean as you can get it. I have had pistons stick because they were so dirty, but if you get it really clean before you push it back in it should be fine, unless that dust seal is damaged. Use a marine grade grease to lubricate any moving parts on your brake hardware (except the rotors of course).

Might add that if rotors are warped they will usually warp again. I was in the brake business for years and they referred to it as "The metal remembers". As in if the brakes are ever heated up again the rotors would warp back to the exact same.

 

I have a 2013 Tundra..I have been pulling a travel trailer at about 5000lbs around this country off and on for 5 years now. I some how got it in my head that a brake controller was integrated in my truck and I activated it by pushing the tow/haul button. Just this week I realized the amazingly HUGE error in my ways..brake controller on the way. So my sweet amazing incredible Tundra has been doing ALL the braking, up and down many mountains and through incredible weather during my towing time..which has probably been 60,000 of my 91,000 miles and has never failed me. And I only replaced the brakes at 80,000. They replaced the front pads and turned the rotors which were not bad at all. So it's safe to say I am beyond pleased with the Toyota brakes!

 

Follow up to my previous post.. 37k miles.. pulled the front calipers today, pads were 1/16" from the squeaker(1/4" total), rotors were in decent shape besides rusted vents inside. Pulled the rear calipers, pads had maybe 1/16" total, rotors were toast and rusted to hell. I've never had a vehicle wear the rear brakes faster than the fronts. Thoroughly disappointed with the stock brakes.. Toyota dropped the ball! One would be crazy to pay premium for Toyota rotors and pads just to have them fail so damn early. I would just go to AZ and buy duralast if I want to change pads and rotors every 40k.. at least the pads are lifetime warranty! Hope my R1s hold up they seem to be of good quality.

 

Perhaps you drive a 6400# truck like a stock car ( they are heavy also , but get new brakes every race ) .

Most get far more mileage before Tundra brake maint .
Im my opp Toyota didnt drop any braking ball this time , or we ALL would be on here crying that our brakes only lasted 30k or less.


We have hills and such , and i REALLY like the braking/ trans downshifting / TC locking / un locking strategy Toyota has on this truck . Works well for me , saving brakes .

My wifes 2011 Camry has non of that and that baby is a glider / free wheeler down hills wow. BUT her front brakes lasted 79k amazingly enough , and the rears just went out at 91k ( some of that was due to pins/sliders not functioning well , we are in the rust belt)

 

39k on my 2015 crewmax, 4th set of brakes. I never tow anything and rarely have anything in the bed. Yes I probably drive like a race car.

 

WOWZER . and YES you must . But i commend you for admitting such , a rarity these days .

PS. i think you should use a full spec fire suit and helmet . lol

 

I was going to add that if you have more than one vehicle, maybe a few different vehicles like a motorcycle or other items, and do a majority of your own maintenance then that Mighty Vac tool is extremely handy! Very easy to use, makes bleeding brakes a "one-man" show. Just You Tube it and there are some tips and tricks to making it work flawlessly. Last one I bought was about $65. You can use it to bleed a hydraulic clutch system, pre-bleed or prime a master cylinder........

 

I Just changed my 2016 1794 at 46K. The rear were 3/4 gone and the front had slightly more pad left but not much more. they probably would not have passed PA inspection. My two Tacoma's my boys drive both needed fronts at 45k. Rear drum shoes at 95k
One thing I can tell you is if you are mechanical at all and have the tools, do it yourself. It takes longer to take the wheel off and put it back on (I don't have an impact gun) then it does to change the pads. It is super easy. Lot's of youtube videos out there.
I put Toyota ceramic on the tundra. I'm curious to see how they perform and hold up.

 

Had to change out rear brakes on a '10 with about 30k on it a few weeks back. Whoever was on the rotary grinder when they finished the factory rotors messed up big time. On the (hidden by dust shield) back faces of both rear rotors they had at least 0.200" ground down at both outer and inner edges, far enough in that the pads only contacted less than an inch of flat surface. Imagine the rotor's braking surface having concentric rings like a target, with a recessed ring of rust about 1/2" wide from the outer edge, and a recessed ring of rust about an inch wide from the inner edge, with a raised clean ring between them. The inner pads on both sides were down to bare metal in that sub-1" strip and as they wore the rust apparently chewed the other areas of pad before they could apply any real pressure to clean it. However on the outer edge it would appear in a quick inspection that there was still pad left, albeit getting low, with far less wear on the outer pads. New OEM rotors were ground as would be expected so the problem won't happen again.

That's the first "Friday" part I've ever found on a Toyota. Anyone else run into this?

 

Nope .

Usually that OEM rotor is the best rotor the vehicle will ever see . The metal is just better .

Cant tell you how may NAPA cheap, premuim or what ever ive gone thru with very poor life here in the rust belt.

 

my front rotors are warping with only 35K.

kinda shitty

Im going to ask my dealer to help me out on them but I know what that will be...

 

My front rotors appear to be warping at 31K. I do all my own tire rotation and summer/winter tire swaps using a torque wrench set to Toyota specified ft/lbs. Next time my Tundra goes into the shop it will be interesting to see what their findings are. Last inspection my front brakes were 9s and rears were 8s should be interesting to see what they are now.

Would be nice if some of the cost would be covered by my Extended Warranty. Not holding my breath for that since most brake components are "wear" items unless I have a sticking/frozen caliper (or two).

=============================================

Hmmmm, further research reveals that TSB -0131-12 describes my problem very accurately. Also interesting is that it applies to the Engine & Drivetrain in my Tundra and my VIN is before a production change Toyota made to allegedly remedy this problem. Yes, my Tundra is past the base 36 month warranty when this TSB usually covers it. I guess Toyota will just have to eat this TSB under my Platinum Warranty instead.

 

Had my 2017 platinum crewmax front rotors turned at 20k. Big binders. Just not so sure they thought through the rotor design all that much.

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It’s a wear item. So what? What else have you spent on? Probably zilch, nada, none. That was my 13 story. Limited. Pulled a bass boat all the time. One set of tires, one set of brakes, and a battery for 85k. Traded it for 27.7k on a new one. Dealer sold it in one day for 30k. Got 7k off an 18 platinum. I’d say it is a cheap truck to drive. Just keep it serviced.

 

There may be a few other things that factor into this as well. I try to keep my vehicles relatively clean, inside and out, underneath to, engine compartment.........So when I wash my vehicles occasionally I lean down under the front bumper and wash the insides of the wheels off as well, concentrate the pressure on the caliper area to. You would be surprised at how much gunk can build up in these areas! Wash the back brakes off from the inside out as well. If you have recently been through a mud bog I would pay close attention to how much stuff was packed up under the vehicle and where.
If you are going to perform the brake job yourself then educate yourself on a few key areas you need to be aware of; Look at the pads, you are looking for even wear from side to side (inboard pad vs outboard pad), You want the pad to be close to the same thickness all across it. None of this requires the use of calipers either, you can usually see the differences if the pads have not been wearing evenly. If an inboard pad is half the thickness of the outer, on the same caliper, then you probably have a problem somewhere, like a sticking caliper or something.
One more thing, the mechanics use to tell everyone to set their E-Brake on a monthly basis, or more often, when parking the vehicle. They discovered that not using those systems could cause all sorts of problems with the rear brakes. Me and the wife always set our E-Brakes on all of our vehicles, no matter where we park, that way we know if you get into one it is set!

 

I have just about 40K on my '16 DC Limited, I'm located in MA and I think I might be in the same boat. I can feel a bit of a groove in the front rotors and I'm getting some pulsing when braking from time to time. I do a lot of stop and go because I work in the city so I expected that I would need to replace the front pads (and rotors since that seems to be the norm these days) around the 40/50K mark.

 

for my other european cars, i buy parts at fcpeuro.. they have lifetime guarantee on parts. So if it wears out, you return it to them and they give you free replacement. Not bad, just have to cover shipping.

 

I have always looked at and admired higher end cars , such as BMW , rotors . They look of super high quality metal. ( compared to what i run ). The steel even looks different.

Love to know what kind of steel they are , and if SSteel what type. Some types of SSteel are not conducive to rotors and gall out . ( dont ask how i know that )

 

Just priced oem pads at rotors at cool springs Toyota with shipping over $500

I bought powerstop brakes for my truck for 350. (So far they are much better than stock)

I’ve had good luck with ebc and they are in the 500 range

I hear the r1 concepts are great too and they are in the 400-500 range.

There are much more expensive options out there but I was staying on the mid range stuff.

I’m not sure how these specific brands hold up to salt but they will most likely all perform better than oem. Remember performance parts like brakes typically wear faster than a standard part. It’s due to the additional friction created. Again everything has a balance.


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Just changed the pads and rotors on my 2012 Tundra, 65k miles. Pads were paper thin and definitely needed. The drums I changed just because ( I went with R1 Concepts)

 

There is going to be a slew of reasons as to why one guy/gal gets 40k out of brakes and why another gets over 100k out of the same system. Just like you can give 10 guys a 5# sledge hammer; 4 of them will use the same hammer for 40 years, 4 of them 20 years, 2 will be holding 2 separate pieces in their hands in 5 minutes or less!! There is so much that factors into this that there is no logical way to accurately or fairly measure it.

 

Agreed . Some can break a brand new digging bar . lol