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Is there a mileage where the brakes on a 2007 tundra could be expected to need repair? I'm referring to rotor and pad rotation. I've had my truck serviced regularly since I bought it. Each time I get the report stating the condition of my truck. I had the rotors service at 88,000 miles and then again at 165,000 miles now at 180,000 miles I'm told again that I need the same work done. My experience shows brakes serviced at nearly 80,000 miles twice and now that drops to less than 20,000 miles. Could this be? Any help is appreciated.

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If you had the rotors surfaced with new pads at 88K and 165K I thiink you might consider getting new rotors. I'm hard on my brakes and had mine turned at 120K, but now at 158K they are warping again. It's been my experience that once you turn them once, they don't last much longer. In fact I'm looking for recommendation on a real good aftermarket set or go with the NOS ones...
 

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I'm partial to Powerstop from Rock Auto. Premium-quality level for the wife's car, towing-quality for the Tundra.

I don't mess with resurfacing rotors. I could have the whole job nearly done in the amount of time it takes to get them off the truck, drive into town, get 'em turned, and then drive back home to put them back on. Not only that, it reduces frequency of brake jobs, and I'm all for that.

Since most of my miles are easy highway miles, I don't have to do it that often. My current truck has 75K miles on the factory set. When I rotated the tires last oil change, they still looked pretty good. Expect I'll change them out at 100K.
 

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I agree with Mulefan that if you had them turned twice, they might be a little thin and that is probably causing the warping. I would get a new set.

However, you might have an issue with one or more of the calipers hanging up slightly heating up and warping the rotors. If the calipers were never replaced, that is a real possibility. You should pull all the tires and carefully inspect the brake pads to see if one of them is thinner than the rest. If so, that is your problem. And if they all seem the same, get a new set of rotors and you should be good to go.

Also, some dealers are telling people that they won't change or resurface rotors without putting new pads on. Don't fall for that. If the pads are good, re-use them. Changing the pads with the rotors or vise-versa only makes a difference the first few times you step on the brake. If you put new rotors or pads on, go out and make a couple high speed stops (like 50 mph to zero fairly fast). Do that a coupe times then drive around a couple miles to let them cool and you should be good to go.
 

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I had problems with front rotors warping on my 2008 Tundra. Come to learn that Toyota makes an upgraded brake backing plate for the front which has larger vent holes. I ordered them from the Toyota dealer and installed them and I have no more problems. Toyota also put out a TSB - Technical Service Bulletin on this. I will attach pics of the original small hole backing plate and the upgraded with larger vent holes.

880728

880729
 

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I seem to have found the interval for my truck. It seems to dependent on how and where you drive.

Mine is a daily driver in abusive stop and go traffic.

I change pads and rotors every 50k miles (all 4). I found a mechanic that will install parts I bring. I buy “better” parts on sale as I approach the interval.

I can install my own stuff, but I don’t always have the time. I essentially buy someone else’s time.

I have had good luck with Hawk LTS and EBC green pads.


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There is really no brake replacement schedule because there are too many variables such as pad/rotor, type/brand, parts quality, driving conditions, driving habits, etc., but you should inspect them routinely.
 

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Being from Newfoundland with lots of road salt and sand a Toyota mechanic told me that antiseize the pins that the pads float on. If the pads seize to the pins this in turn warps the rotors. Then it's a full bake job. $$$$
 

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Being from Newfoundland with lots of road salt and sand a Toyota mechanic told me that antiseize the pins that the pads float on. If the pads seize to the pins this in turn warps the rotors. Then it's a full bake job. $$$$
Yes, that's is good advice with regards to putting anti-seize on the brake pad retaining pins. If the pads don't "float" or slide easily as the caliper pistons contact the pads, then the pads will hang and "seize" or at least will stick and not provide even braking force and also wear unevenly and overheat your rotors. If I was living in Newfoundland, I would probably have my brakes inspected more often because of the harsh climate and road conditions.
 

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I had problems with front rotors warping on my 2008 Tundra. Come to learn that Toyota makes an upgraded brake backing plate for the front which has larger vent holes. I ordered them from the Toyota dealer and installed them and I have no more problems. Toyota also put out a TSB - Technical Service Bulletin on this. I will attach pics of the original small hole backing plate and the upgraded with larger vent holes.

View attachment 880728
View attachment 880729
Now that's some cool info right there!! I will be checking that TSB out at my next oil change and see what they say about that. Maybe I can score some discount on new rotors because of it. ;)Thanks
 

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mine were warped like crazy in the front at 55K, I had new rotors and pads put on here locally, they offered a 5 year 55K warranty including warping. this is the first time I ever went with a non Toyota brake so well see how it goes. I just haven't had much luck with Toyota rotors. Ive had a few Toyota trucks as you can see lol.
 
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