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I want to know which CAI offers the best MPG, between aFe, K&N, and volant. I know im gonna get hammered for asking, but im looking for more results. I have searched the boards regarding this issue. Thanks.
 

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I want to know which CAI offers the best MPG, between aFe, K&N, and volant. I know im gonna get hammered for asking, but im looking for more results. I have searched the boards regarding this issue. Thanks.
Your stock air box is a CAI. It takes the same air from the same hole in the inner fender wall like my Volant CAI does. IMO, the CAI are overrated. Don't take me wrong, I like my Volant. It gave me a growl, a little better low end, and a +1mpg.. , but for the price of it, I would have been better off just swapping the OEM filter for a K&N and remove the top charcoal filter..
 

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I went with the AFE because it came with the dry filter on clearance at Autoanything for about 280. Its the 2010 model but still fits the 11. I love the sound it gave me and looks clean under the hood with the stainless cover. About 2mpg with Cai and cat back
 

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I've got a Volant, Airaid throttle body, dual exhaust, speedometer calibrator, pretty much everything they claim will give a Tundra better gas mileage. I can't tell any difference in "better" gas mileage- Sounds better, shifts better, that's about it!! But then again, my truck is lifted with 35's. Maybe a stock ride height with factory tires/wheels might see something.
 

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I think I lost a little bit when I put my AFE on but it looks and sounds cools and that is the important part. :eek:
 

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I think I lost a little bit when I put my AFE on but it looks and sounds cools and that is the important part. :eek:
did you dissconnect your battery before you installed it then reconnect after to reset the computer to compensate fore the added air flow? if not, it may be why you think your getting less mpg
 

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I think I lost a little bit when I put my AFE on but it looks and sounds cools and that is the important part. :eek:
did you disconnect your battery before you installed it then reconnect after to reset the computer to compensate for the added air flow? if not, it may be why you think your getting less mpg
 

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DC'ing the battery

did you disconnect your battery before you installed it then reconnect after to reset the computer to compensate for the added air flow? if not, it may be why you think your getting less mpg
Now that's interesting....hmmmmm, do you disconnect the battery when you add a Volant or other CIA's as well?
 

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all of them get the same which is absolutely zip or mayber 1 or 2 more mpg, all honesty only thing that truly improves mpg is buying a commuter car or putting on a supercharger which will get you 5 more mpg if you can keep your foot out of it, but you will also be paying for premium which will cancel out any savings. there is no way to improve mpg on a big v8 truck that weighs 3 tons with people and other crap in it, everything you do will either be for a suspension gain or sounding cool with a little more go power. i have a 2wd 5.7 with the 6 speed and sitting on 22's with 33" street tires and i get between 18-19 mixed with custom exhaust and trd intake and still drive like an ass lol. best way to really squeeze the most out a intake is go hold a gun to the developers of bully dog, diablo, or super chip and force them to crack the codes of the 3urfe so we can adjust our fuel mixtures.
 

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I have found that there is one thing and one thing only that is absolutely guarenteed to provide the biggest bang for the buck in terms of fuel savings that immediately put real money back in your pocket. And it is not any aftermarket mod, whose cost you have to recoup with mpg increases (if you ever see any) before you start to save any money. It involves putting the fuel economy display on the instantaneous setting and then doing doing everything in your power to keep that number as high as possible in every situation. It isn't a very fun thing to do. And you probably won't be too popular with drivers who are stuck behind you. But I have seen a spread of up to 3mpg in city, highway, AND COMBINED calculations just by varying driving style. The hardest part about making a huge difference in this area is getting people to accept that they cannot have their cake and eat it too: They have to learn to accept that there is no magical formula that can give them a real world 20 mpg on the highway while still doing 75 mph.
 

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I have found that there is one thing and one thing only that is absolutely guarenteed to provide the biggest bang for the buck in terms of fuel savings that immediately put real money back in your pocket. And it is not any aftermarket mod, whose cost you have to recoup with mpg increases (if you ever see any) before you start to save any money. It involves putting the fuel economy display on the instantaneous setting and then doing doing everything in your power to keep that number as high as possible in every situation. It isn't a very fun thing to do. And you probably won't be too popular with drivers who are stuck behind you. But I have seen a spread of up to 3mpg in city, highway, AND COMBINED calculations just by varying driving style. The hardest part about making a huge difference in this area is getting people to accept that they cannot have their cake and eat it too: They have to learn to accept that there is no magical formula that can give them a real world 20 mpg on the highway while still doing 75 mph.
I tried the K&N CAI and it was to much noise for me. I agee if you want to save gas just drive 60 on the freeway and keep your foot out of the gas. I have gotten as much as 19.2 mpg in hills just driving slow but every once in a while you have to pull over to let the fast traffic pass by. Thats why I bought the bigger tank was to go further between fill ups and shop for the best price on gas.
 

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did you disconnect your battery before you installed it then reconnect after to reset the computer to compensate for the added air flow? if not, it may be why you think your getting less mpg
this doesnt compensate for anything. the only thing it resets is the clock on your radio.

people....the ecu's on todays vehicles know how much air the engine is getting (or not getting). if the old "unhook the battery" line was true, i would have to unhook it when i gets cold so the ecu/engine knows that the ambient air temp is different thus adjusting the a/f ratio. there are sensors that read this.....there is an ecu to take in the info from the sensors and make any necessary adjustments.

sorry for venting......im just sick of reading about unhooking the battery. it makes no sense and is irrelevant
 
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