Citation? I don't know that I've read that. The Sequoia T/C is 1.25 inches longer that the Tundra T/C. I've not seen the inside of any of the three, but the ability to have an open center differential may account for this extra length.From the info I can gather, the landcruiser/LX570 transfercase matches the flange locations of the tundra, eliminating the need for driveshaft modifications?
If so, I'm going to pick one up and do some electrical customization to make 4low/center diff lock it work with my 2019. I don't mind loosing 2wd at all.
Best evidence I have is this thread: https://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/90666-project-traction-2/Citation? I don't know that I've read that. The Sequoia T/C is 1.25 inches longer that the Tundra T/C. I've not seen the inside of any of the three, but the ability to have an open center differential may account for this extra length.
I would think that the first half of this thread has all of the information that you need in that regard. The very first post gives info about the differing T/C lengths and the need to mod at the very least the rear driveshaft of any tundra configuration with the exception of the RCSB. I'm not immediately seeing any information that indicates the W/B of your truck.Best evidence I have is this thread: https://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/90666-project-traction-2/
At no point was there any mention of differences in dimension. That's also why I asked as it seems the Sequoia TC doesn't REQUIRE driveshaft modification, but it's very desirable to do so.
We know the difference of a Sequoia case but I haven't seen any measurements of the LC one, just that with the LC one you don't HAVE to modify the driveshafts. I'm hoping it's the same or very close to the tundra. Maybe I should hit up the LC200 group and see if someone could crawl under and measure one.I would think that the first half of this thread has all of the information that you need in that regard. The very first post gives info about the differing T/C lengths and the need to mod at the very least the rear driveshaft of any tundra configuration with the exception of the RCSB. I'm not immediately seeing any information that indicates the W/B of your truck.
I've been to that thread as well, and although I only breezed through it again today, I didn't see any mention of dimensions either. The tricky aspect of using the L/C vs. the Sequoia case might be the actuator, and that's gone into on the next page or so from where your link begins. It'd be interesting to read your experience on the route that you take. Please keep us up to date!
Ya, that's probably the best thing to do. I never actually looked into the LC case as I wanted to have the 2WD functionality. Maybe that ability is what makes the length difference. Again, let us know what you find.We know the difference of a Sequoia case but I haven't seen any measurements of the LC one, just that with the LC one you don't HAVE to modify the driveshafts. I'm hoping it's the same or very close to the tundra. Maybe I should hit up the LC200 group and see if someone could crawl under and measure one.
That is Brian Jowett's build, and is the thread that originally inspired me to do the Sequoia transfer case swap.From the info I can gather, the landcruiser/LX570 transfercase matches the flange locations of the tundra, eliminating the need for driveshaft modifications?
Best evidence I have is this thread: https://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/90666-project-traction-2/
At no point was there any mention of differences in dimension.
I think if you can make that work, it would be great.If so, I'm going to pick one up and do some electrical customization to make 4low/center diff lock it work with my 2019. I don't mind loosing 2wd at all.
The Sequoia t-case conversion does require a rear driveshaft modification on every truck except a non-lowered RCSB, as Wynnded mentioned.That's also why I asked as it seems the Sequoia TC doesn't REQUIRE driveshaft modification, but it's very desirable to do so.
Great news on the Sequoia front shaft being a direct swap.I gambled $100 on a low mile Sequoia front driveshaft and it dropped right in. It is approximately 1.25 inches Longer than the Tundra front driveshaft so it fits perfectly!
Love, love, love Tundra with AWD that can be driven on pavement and still have 2WD and 4WD Locked modes.
Big thanks to ViktorG and the others who inspired me to do this.
Completed the Sequoia to Tundra TCase swap on my twelve. Used 2012 Sequoia TCase, 4WD ECM, and front driveshaft just to be safe. The two changes that I made that have not been done before were to use the Sequoia front driveshaft and to wire the CDLSwitch differently. I gambled $100 on a low mile Sequoia front driveshaft and it dropped right in. It is approximately 1.25 inches Longer than the Tundra front driveshaft so it fits perfectly!
Also, I wanted to wire the CDLSwitch so that it lights up when pushed to Lock the TCase into 4WD. In other words, the CDLSwitch is itself the indicator light to indicate "Locked" and not lighted when "Unlocked" = AWD.
CDLS Pin 6 = Chassis Ground
CDLS Pin 7 = Connected to 4WD ECM Pin 14
CDLS Pin 8 = Connected to 12v Socket + (Red Wire)
CDLS Pin 9 = Connected to 4WD ECM Pin 12
Love, love, love Tundra with AWD that can be driven on pavement and still have 2WD and 4WD Locked modes.
Big thanks to ViktorG and the others who inspired me to do this.
Awesome! I am actively sourcing my parts. I love the idea of just replacing the front drive shaft. Is there anyway to avoid shortening the rear drive shaft? Without that drive line modification this is truly just bolt on get it done in the driveway work, I think...Completed the Sequoia to Tundra TCase swap on my twelve. Used 2012 Sequoia TCase, 4WD ECM, and front driveshaft just to be safe. The two changes that I made that have not been done before were to use the Sequoia front driveshaft and to wire the CDLSwitch differently. I gambled $100 on a low mile Sequoia front driveshaft and it dropped right in. It is approximately 1.25 inches Longer than the Tundra front driveshaft so it fits perfectly!
Also, I wanted to wire the CDLSwitch so that it lights up when pushed to Lock the TCase into 4WD. In other words, the CDLSwitch is itself the indicator light to indicate "Locked" and not lighted when "Unlocked" = AWD.
CDLS Pin 6 = Chassis Ground
CDLS Pin 7 = Connected to 4WD ECM Pin 14
CDLS Pin 8 = Connected to 12v Socket + (Red Wire)
CDLS Pin 9 = Connected to 4WD ECM Pin 12
Love, love, love Tundra with AWD that can be driven on pavement and still have 2WD and 4WD Locked modes.
Big thanks to ViktorG and the others who inspired me to do this.
I realize that this isn't much help, but I used 6-ton jack stands because we didn't have anything smaller, and we have a transmission jack. On the subject to the drive shaft, I don't know if phasing would be something to look into. Getting a second-hand, already modded drive shaft would be a good idea, you could also ask them about phasing, if it's even a concern.Anyone do this job on jack stands? I am wondering if I just need to plan on renting a lift bay. I have 4 of these jack stands (link) and can rent a transmission jack easy enough. I will also need to get my hands on a shop crane, to get the t-case out of the bed of the truck. These are things I can rent or buy used and immediately sell for roughly the price I pay for them.
The problem with renting a lift bay will be the rear driveshaft modification time. Maybe I should source a used rear drive shaft to modify in advance so it is an just a swap and then I can sell my unmodified driveshaft.
Let me know if there are any thoughts to share on this. Typing this out made me think more critically about all of it and renting a bay and purchasing a rear drive shaft seems to make the most sense. Hopefully there is a market for my unmodified drive shaft and I don't get shafted out of that money.
Feedback would be great from those that have done this or just swapped a Transfer case in general.
The transfer case weighs a little over 100 lbs, it is easily lifted and moved around with one extra set of hands.I will also need to get my hands on a shop crane, to get the t-case out of the bed of the truck.
What I normally do with these is leave the rear driveshaft out, put the truck in 4x4 and lock the center diff.The problem with renting a lift bay will be the rear driveshaft modification time. Maybe I should source a used rear drive shaft to modify in advance so it is an just a swap and then I can sell my unmodified driveshaft.
The transfer case weighs a little over 100 lbs, it is easily lifted and moved around with one extra set of hands.
What I normally do with these is leave the rear driveshaft out, put the truck in 4x4 and lock the center diff.
Now you have a front wheel drive truck that you can no problem drive around for a few days.
The driveshaft shop that I go to does the job in one day and the shaft can be easily installed on the ground without a lift.
Buying and reselling would be a hassle.
This is super helpful, thanks! On my way to pick up the TCase now.I was able to move mine from pallet/truck/jack by myself, and I'm kind of a weak-tit. ;-)
