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Or for a more permanent sealant take a look into Opti-Coat Gloss Coat.
So do you have any experience with the new Opti-Coat? It appears they changed the formula last year and people are complaining that the price doubled.
 

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I couldn't care if they trippled the price. Opti Coat is an amazing sealant. It's been on my wife's car for a little over 9 months and it still sheets off water like day one. I was her car every week, sometimes twice and it is still as durable as the first wash. I have it on her wheels as well and just a quick rinse from the hose is all that's needed to clean them. The surface is so hydrophobic that soap barley clings to the surface. It's a great sealant.

I was able to apply around 5 layers on her car with the single syringe. I did a layer after each wash for about 5 weeks. I'd say you could get 3 layers on the Tundra with the 10 cc syringe.
 

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I couldn't care if they trippled the price. Opti Coat is an amazing sealant. It's been on my wife's car for a little over 9 months and it still sheets off water like day one. I was her car every week, sometimes twice and it is still as durable as the first wash. I have it on her wheels as well and just a quick rinse from the hose is all that's needed to clean them. The surface is so hydrophobic that soap barley clings to the surface. It's a great sealant.

I was able to apply around 5 layers on her car with the single syringe. I did a layer after each wash for about 5 weeks. I'd say you could get 3 layers on the Tundra with the 10 cc syringe.
Awesome to hear! Thanks.
 

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This thread is information overload! So here's my story: bought my black 2014 sr5 6 months ago. Paid for the dealers paint protection and sealant up front ($600), but because it was late on a Sunday I didn't have it done. Now I've never made it back to get it done. After reading this thread I'm thinking maybe I should just get my money back and do it myself. I've been waxing my cars since I was young, but I'm nowhere near a profesisonal. I usually just use mcguiars or mothers stuff from autozone. My truck doesn't have any major issues, just 6 months of normal use. What would you guys recommend to get this thing looking good, and lasting. I'm a little nervous about using some of these sealers guys are talking about since I've never done it. Thanks for any and all advise!
 

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I was in the same boat as you when I bought my 2013. I ended talking quite a bit through pm with JumboJet and decided to get the griots garage 6" orbital polisher with menzerna compound and sealant. I also purchased the nanoskin glide clay system. I watched a few tutorials on the products and it was simple. I've done my truck my wife's sequoia and a buddies Subaru and they've all turned out great. It's a lot of work though.
 

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I think we all have been bitten by the detail bug but it is gratifying to watch the swirls and scratches replaced with a deep wet shine.

I say get your money back and do it yourself.
 
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This thread is information overload! So here's my story: bought my black 2014 sr5 6 months ago. Paid for the dealers paint protection and sealant up front ($600), but because it was late on a Sunday I didn't have it done. Now I've never made it back to get it done. After reading this thread I'm thinking maybe I should just get my money back and do it myself. I've been waxing my cars since I was young, but I'm nowhere near a profesisonal. I usually just use mcguiars or mothers stuff from autozone. My truck doesn't have any major issues, just 6 months of normal use. What would you guys recommend to get this thing looking good, and lasting. I'm a little nervous about using some of these sealers guys are talking about since I've never done it. Thanks for any and all advise!

Glad you found the detail forum. If you can get your money back, please do, and put some of that $600 towards your own DA polisher, pads, polish and sealant. A Griots 6" DA, Menzerna FG400, Menzerna SF4000, some pads and a handful of microfiber towels and you're off and running. A high quality sealant like Menzerna PowerLock or even better...Opti Coat opti gloss.

It's a lot of work, but it's not hard....just time consuming. There are plenty of guys here who could help guide you through the entire process. It's fun and very rewarding.
 

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Sorry if this is buried in the thread somewhere, but how do you recommend polishing black painted wheels? I can't get my DA with pad into the "spokes" of the wheel and that area is beginning to look a little "chalky" despite my efforts to keep them clean in the winter. Any attachment I could use on my cordless drill to apply my Menzerna to these areas and bring the wheels back to life? Thanks!
 
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I usually use finger power which sucks. When you say chalky do you mean oxidized or is there a chalky substance on them? How about a picture. If it is contamination a good hand cleaning and clay followed by a good sealant will probably do the trick. If it us oxidation, polishing with a buff ball on your drill will work. Be very carefull if you go that route not to buff to long and burn threw the clear. I would try a light polish like a m205.
 
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I think it took me 5 days to go through the entire thread but I made it! Now I've got the detailing bug which is expensive, but not as expensive as new truck fever. So far I've ordered the following...

Griots DA polisher
Menzerna Show Car Finish kit ( 1500/4000/Powerlock + LC CSS pads)
Menzerna FG400
LC CSS red pad 6.5"
LC flat pads orange, white, black 5.5"
Surbuf R series pad 5.5"
5" backing plate
Aerospace 303 (for a little shine)
Einszette cockpit premium (for when I want a matte look)
DP Engine degreaser
Aquape glass treatment
Griots detailing spray & clay kit
Novus Plastic Polish kit
Grit guard bucket insert
Lucas Oil Slick Mist tire shine I picked up just before I started reading this thread (so far I like it well enough)

I tried my hand at paint correction for the first time with the 1500/4000. The truck looks good but I didn't get rid of all the fine scratches I'd hoped to erase. After the fact, I realized I should have been cleaning the pad between sections which is probably why it started to cake up. Next time I'm going with the Surbuf, FG400/4000. I'm LOVING the Powerlock! Unbelievably slick!
 

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I use the FG400/4000 combo and Ppwerlock as well. Powerlock is ace, easy to use and great shine!

Couldnt get everything, but then I beat it up pretty bad hunting. Just did mine again after winter this weekend. Parked next to the boss's 2015 tundra, he was impressed with how it looked. Said it looked like a new truck.

Once you use the FG400 and Surbuff youll get more out.
 

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Yeah, such a great combo.

Off topic, but we're on vacation in Yosemite this week, and I got my first Rainbow's and Brownies on fly today. Had to learn a few new techniques I've never used before, but it was amazing. Rainbows on 4wt's are fun!
Sounds awesome. I used to fly fish Pompano when I lived in your state. I can't wait to get back down there.
 

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the genius that had my truck before me put the 3M clear protector on my hood (2014 MGM), and when they removed it, it left a very visible and defined line across the entire hood. i hit it pretty hard with griots DA, SIP 1500 and an orange pad. was my first time with the DA so i'm positive i can do more with it; it is definitely lighter but still visible. do i need to go with a coarser pad? different compound? i figured the SIP would be plenty. thanks in advance. i can snap a picture or 2 as well if that helps.
 

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Hey Jumbo, I sent you a pm but figured I'd ask here as well. I just nano'd the truck, went over it with FG400 and then SF4000. I wiped it all down with a quality micro before applying a coat of Powerlock. Should I be wiping it down with detail spray before the Powerlock? I just felt like there was still some polish residue that wouldn't come off no matter how many times I wiped it down.

I also meant to ask about pads. I used a white lake country pad for both the FG400 and SF4000. I was thinking about getting either a green or gray pad for the SF4000...thoughts?
 
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Hey Jumbo, I sent you a pm but figured I'd ask here as well. I just nano'd the truck, went over it with FG400 and then SF4000. I wiped it all down with a quality micro before applying a coat of Powerlock. Should I be wiping it down with detail spray before the Powerlock? I just felt like there was still some polish residue that wouldn't come off no matter how many times I wiped it down.

I also meant to ask about pads. I used a white lake country pad for both the FG400 and SF4000. I was thinking about getting either a green or gray pad for the SF4000...thoughts?
50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and di water spray and wipe down before the powerlock will get all the polish off in prep for the pl.

You can get a quicker cut if you use a yellow or orange pad with the FG 400. For really bad scratches you can use a surbuff pad and fg400. White should be fine for sf 4000 but you could use a grey pad if you are getting maring.
 

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Thanks. I'll do that next time for sure. Still came out good. ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1431567835.334673.jpg ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1431567850.160209.jpg
 
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