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"Resident Liberal"
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Jumbo Jet, what are your bonafides?
 

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What is best to use as a presoak before wand washing?

The best auto car washes always seem to be the ones that apply presoak before turning on the jets. This soak is a weird blue and white foam that they apply and let sit a few minutes. It seems to make all the difference in getting grime off, including
on the front end. :D

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What is best to use as a presoak before wand washing?

The best auto car washes always seem to be the ones that apply presoak before turning on the jets. This soak is a weird blue and white foam that they apply and let sit a few minutes. It seems to make all the difference in getting grime off, including
on the front end. :D

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Auto washes? Aw man, say it isn't so.

If you have a foamer, try Meguiars Hyper Wash for great foaming as a pre soak.

For a good soaking pre cleaner before a correction to thoroughly clean the paint, I like Einszettes W99, or Einszettes Blitz APC. Both used in the foamer.
 

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What is best for cleaning the plastic/painted dash? The ToyoCare package with the detailer worked ok but didn't last long.
Thanks

This is an easy one. Einszettes Cockpit Premium. Best interior cleaner I've ever used. Smells amazing too.

Also try:

303 AeroSpace Protectant
Einszettes Blitz APC
Adams APC
 

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What do you recommend for drying my truck? Seems every time I dry I end up with "fuzzies" all over it from the towel I use. Will a regular chamois work? Better yet, is there something I can wash with that will prevent water spots?
 

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What do you recommend for drying my truck? Seems every time I dry I end up with "fuzzies" all over it from the towel I use. Will a regular chamois work? Better yet, is there something I can wash with that will prevent water spots?
I use the "drying with water" method first. If you have a solid layer of sealant on the truck, take the nozzle off of the hose and let the water trickle down and sheet off the vehicle. Start at the top and work your way down. Its amazing how well this technique works on glass. Then I use a leaf blower (gas powered Echo) to dry what little is left. It also gets the water out of the mirrors, bed caps, fuel door and grill. Then pull it in the garage and blot dry the rest with a quality Waffle Weave microfiber drying towel.

If you dont like getting them online, Target has Cobra waffle weave drying towels. They are good towels.
 

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I use the "drying with water" method first. If you have a solid layer of sealant on the truck, take the nozzle off of the hose and let the water trickle down and sheet off the vehicle. Start at the top and work your way down. Its amazing how well this technique works on glass. Then I use a leaf blower (gas powered Echo) to dry what little is left. It also gets the water out of the mirrors, bed caps, fuel door and grill. Then pull it in the garage and blot dry the rest with a quality Waffle Weave microfiber drying towel.
a bazillion times this ^^
 

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"Resident Liberal"
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Jumbo Jet, what are your bonafides?
I would really like to know what your background and experience in detailing is.
 

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Looking to try paint correction out on my Tundra for the first time. I've never done it before and have been reading up a lot on different products. Considering I will only be using on my two vehicles and maybe a friend's vehicle once in a while I was wondering if the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher or Meguiars Dual Action Polisher G110v2 were good enough for my needs vs. something higher priced like the Flex XC3401. I've done everything else before (wash, clay, polish, wax, sealant) by hand and now want to take the next step. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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Looking to try paint correction out on my Tundra for the first time. I've never done it before and have been reading up a lot on different products. Considering I will only be using on my two vehicles and maybe a friend's vehicle once in a while I was wondering if the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher or Meguiars Dual Action Polisher G110v2 were good enough for my needs vs. something higher priced like the Flex XC3401. I've done everything else before (wash, clay, polish, wax, sealant) by hand and now want to take the next step. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Yeah, no need for a Flex if you're just playing around on your own cars. Save that baby for later.

In my opinion the new Griots 6" DA is the best DA out right now. I'd go with that and be done with it. You should feel no need to have to upgrade from the Griots. It's a much better machine than the PC 7424xp. Much more power and way less vibration. Comes in a 10 foot cord model and a 25 foot corded model....way cool. I have the 10 foot model and I love it. All my pads work perfect with it. I use 5.5" Über and Lake Country pads with it, as well as Optimum microfiber pads.

If its your first DA, I'd recommend getting a good start on pads too. Two of each of the main colors will be good to get you rolling. Two yellow, two orange, two white and two red (Lake Country colors). Although, orange will more than likely be your most used color from LC.

Good luck, it's gonna be fun.
 

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Jumbo Jet - Thanks...I'll probably order the Griots Garage 6" DA this week. I have a white Tundra with single stage paint (except for repainted front end, hood, and color matched parts w/clear) so i'm thinking of using a Menzerna polish, then finish. Would it be best to use the orange LC pad for polish, then white pad for finish? Planning to finish with Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection or Blackfire Wet Diamond. I would use the red pad for the sealant or any wax right?
 

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Jumbo Jet - Thanks...I'll probably order the Griots Garage 6" DA this week. I have a white Tundra with single stage paint (except for repainted front end, hood, and color matched parts w/clear) so i'm thinking of using a Menzerna polish, then finish. Would it be best to use the orange LC pad for polish, then white pad for finish? Planning to finish with Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection or Blackfire Wet Diamond. I would use the red pad for the sealant or any wax right?
Great list of products! Have you ever used Four Star PUPP before? That is one awesome sealant, and it leaves one of it not the most slickest finish I've ever used. Whenever I use it, people just can't stop rubbing the back of their hand down the side of the car. It's crazy slick feeling.

If you're using Menzerna and this is your first time using it, I would recommend buying just a few from them. If you're already familiar with it and have some, then disregard. If not, get some SIP 1500 and SF 4000, and some PowerLock to seal, then top that with Four Star PUPP. SIP 1500 is a great compound, and finishes down near perfectly. Pair the 1500 with an orange LC pad and Griots on 4-5. That pad, compound and machine combo should take care of just about everything you'll likely come across. Then a pass with SF4000 and a white pad with the Griots on 3-4 to jewel it out. Top it all off with PowerLock and/or Four Star PUPP with a red finishing pad, Griots on 3. That will have your truck looking better than the day it rolled off the assembly line, and with not much effort.

I have just about the whole line of Menzerna. 1000,1500,2000,2500,4000 and 4500 and the ones I use the most are 1500 and 4000. 1500 will finish down so nicely you can nearly go straight to LSP after it. The rest of the Menzerna line is just as amazing, but those two, plus PowerLock are my go-to's.
 

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I haven't used the Four Star product before, but had my bedsides corrected a while back and the detailer used Blackfire Wet Diamond as the finishing product. That product lasted a long time and was very slick so I read your reviews and am trusting that I would like the Four Star product as much or more than the BFWD. This will be my first time using the Menzerna line and first time correcting paint. Thanks for the tip on which Menzerna products to buy...those 2 products are my first choice and come in a bundle on AutoGeek for $50 in 16oz sizes. This is also very tempting for double the size at the same price for similar products Menzerna Intro Kit, Menzerna polishes, Menzerna Final Polish, Intensive polish How many vehicles do you think the 16 or 32oz bottles are good for? What is the advantage/purpose of using the Powerlock before the FourStar or BlackFire sealants?
 

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I haven't used the Four Star product before, but had my bedsides corrected a while back and the detailer used Blackfire Wet Diamond as the finishing product. That product lasted a long time and was very slick so I read your reviews and am trusting that I would like the Four Star product as much or more than the BFWD. This will be my first time using the Menzerna line and first time correcting paint. Thanks for the tip on which Menzerna products to buy...those 2 products are my first choice and come in a bundle on AutoGeek for $50 in 16oz sizes. This is also very tempting for double the size at the same price for similar products Menzerna Intro Kit, Menzerna polishes, Menzerna Final Polish, Intensive polish How many vehicles do you think the 16 or 32oz bottles are good for? What is the advantage/purpose of using the Powerlock before the FourStar or BlackFire sealants?

Depends on how much detailing or corrections you're doing. If you're just correcting your own cars, you'll be fine with the 16oz. bottles. Remember, you're only correcting once or twice a year, or as major imperfections arise, not after every wash. So they should last you awhile. But what will most likely happen is that you'll do your truck, your friends will see it, and they'll want theirs done as well. So maybe the 32oz. bottles are a better idea.

PowerLock is Menzerna's synthetic sealant. It's pretty amazing stuff. It's has a very similar crazy slick feel to it like PUPP, but PUPP is still king. However, if you're familiar with BFWD and you like it, then you could go right to that. PowerLock isn't cheap, but you get what you pay for in the world of detailing. I just like PowerLock because of its durability and staying within the same line, but there is no real world benefit of using it over another high end LSP. Just like PUPP and BFWD, PL goes on and off extremely easy.
 

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Here's one: I just bought a car that the previous owner smoked in. The smell isn't horrible but I have a nose like a bloodhound and I notice it. I've tried sitting a couple of bowls of coffee in it for a few days and it did help some. I'm trying to avoid spraying a bunch of chemicals in the car since I haul my 1 yo daughter in it some. I've heard about some sort of ozone machines but I also heard that the resulting gases will eat away at any exposed rubber surfaces: not good with a sunroof, not to mention door seals. Any other suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Not sure the exposure time with the Ozone machine will be enough to have any real affect on the rubber. I'll ask some guys I know and let you know what I can come up with.

FWIW, I have used an Ozone machine on my mother's car (Heavy smoker) and left it on all night and then opened it up the next day and to this day that car hasn't had any issues with the rubber seals. (That was 6 years ago)
 

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Not sure the exposure time with the Ozone machine will be enough to have any real affect on the rubber. I'll ask some guys I know and let you know what I can come up with.

FWIW, I have used an Ozone machine on my mother's car (Heavy smoker) and left it on all night and then opened it up the next day and to this day that car hasn't had any issues with the rubber seals. (That was 6 years ago)
Thanks. When I was told that it kinda set me on edge. In my mind I pictured all the exterior seals turning to powder or something :eek:
 

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A couple applications of ozone won't be enough to break down the rubber unless the ozonizer is too large. If you're worried, try a smaller unit around 200mg. Let the ozonizer run for about 20-30 minutes while the fan is running. Hold your nose, shut the car off and then let it run for another 15 minutes. Unplug it and let it sit for an hour then open all the doors.
 
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