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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, just a few questions regarding lift/leveling my newly acquired 07 TRD double cab (107K miles). I picked up some 20x9 XD Hoss wheels on craigslist a few weeks back. I'd really like to do a 3 and 1 lift/level, but all the talk I hear about needing UCAs is scaring me away from that. My question is, if I just put 5100s in the front on their middle position (1.5"ish) will I need new UCAs? Am I endangering my factory UCAs with a mere 1.5" of lift on the front? I don't off road much at all. This is mainly a hunting, country living 4x4 truck. I am not going to take it on trails, or thrash it or anything. Not a daily driver, just a weekend truck. I'd like a close to level look with AT tires, thats really all I need from this truck.

My wife is already giving me bad looks when I talk about buying $1200 worth of tires, so I am really trying to just get it leveled for as little as possible, but I obviously don't want to comprise the reliability or longevity of the suspension.

Thoughts?
 

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Not if you stay 3" or below. The way it is lifted is up to how you intend to use the truck. A spacer lift is an inexpensive way to go, but If you wanna bomb down the trails like its Baja then high quality coilovers are needed.

IMHO, if it is just occasional use offroad go with a spacer lift unless $$ is no object. I ran a spacer lift on my 04' DC for 325k miles and am at 165k on my 14' DC without issues from a spacer lift.
 

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You don't need them until +35" tire, +7" lift. UCAs give better adjustment for alignment needed to caster big tires forward without sacrificing toe and camber to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds like I don't need UCAs if I stay below 3". I will most likely do bilstien 5100s at the top setting and a diff drop. Hopefully I can run atleast 285/60r20s with no problems.

Thanks
 

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Sounds like I don't need UCAs if I stay below 3".
A strut lift reduces caster, basically self centering of the steering. It won't wear out tires, but it will tend to wander. 3" is too much for good caster.

Your original idea of 5100s on the middle setting is more sensible for a lot of reasons. Caster will be ok (won't need UCAs), you won't need a diff drop, won't need to lift the rear. A lower CG is better for handling and getting in the truck also. Plus 5100s are a way better way to lift than using spacers.

1.5" is plenty of lift for 35s. I have fat 35s on +25mm rims and no lift. Zero. 2" is plenty of lift for 37s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Ok, so dont go to 2.5"? Or is that as much as I should go before I sacrifice good adjustment? Maybe I will try the 5100 middle setting. Probably will get the full set of 4. Leave the rear at 0 and 1.5 in the front. Still need to have the front diff carrier bearing replaced, another problem I inherited...

Thanks for the help
 

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My boss has a platinum with 5100s maxed out, with 35 Toyo ATs and his truck was aligned within the first few minutes of being on the machine. No problems at all! Go for it!!
 

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I have the rough country 3" and used the spacer and the add in shims, 1 on drivers side and 2 on passenger side to level it better. Even with just that, my caster and camber werent great. I took it back off and waiting to order control arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have the rough country 3" and used the spacer and the add in shims, 1 on drivers side and 2 on passenger side to level it better. Even with just that, my caster and camber werent great. I took it back off and waiting to order control arms.
Good luck getting it straight. What were you at total on the front? 3" total or 3" + shims. I'm hoping 2.5 will be ok. Gonna order the 5100s and diff drop kit after Christmas.
 

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There is a difference between getting an alignment "in the green" and a good alignment. at 2.75" i had very low caster. I had to get UCA went with the Tuff Country ones and all is well again. Every truck is different. Look up the Socal alignment thread and try to get as close to those numbers as possible.
 

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How do you like the Tuff Country UCAs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How do you like the Tuff Country UCAs?


No complaints. They just work. I was trying to not spend a lot of money on them. I wanted ball joints instead of uniballs. Made in USA for around $300.

Every tuff country UCA I've looked at says "non TRD". My 07 is a TRD, do I have to go with a different UCA?
 

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No complaints. They just work. I was trying to not spend a lot of money on them. I wanted ball joints instead of uniballs. Made in USA for around $300.
Ya, they seem like a great value.

Regarding the "non-TRD" qualification, I've never heard of that. Don't see anything about that on the website. TRD is just different shocks.

They have this qualification, which is bogus: "Requires aftermarket wheels with 5.5" backspacing or less".
 

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Ya, they seem like a great value.



Regarding the "non-TRD" qualification, I've never heard of that. Don't see anything about that on the website. TRD is just different shocks.



They have this qualification, which is bogus: "Requires aftermarket wheels with 5.5" backspacing or less".


Yep I’m definitely running them on stock 20” tss wheels +50 offset with no clearance issues with 275 tires. I have a pic somewhere. Instead of moving the ball joint backwards like most uca, I think they move them in (camber) to allow more caster adjustments. Just a different way to go about it. Might keep some people off the body mount.
 

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Instead of moving the ball joint backwards like most uca, I think they move them in (camber) to allow more caster adjustments.
I thought aftermarket UCAs usually did both. Sucks that they don't publish this info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No complaints. They just work. I was trying to not spend a lot of money on them. I wanted ball joints instead of uniballs. Made in USA for around $300.
Ya, they seem like a great value.

Regarding the "non-TRD" qualification, I've never heard of that. Don't see anything about that on the website. TRD is just different shocks.

They have this qualification, which is bogus: "Requires aftermarket wheels with 5.5" backspacing or less".
Here is what I would get if I could be guaranteed that they would work with my 2007 tundra TRD...https://www.suspensionconnection.co...MIypzc_LOP2AIVhoSzCh21sAIwEAQYASABEgLtLPD_BwE

Pretty affordable as far as UCAs go
 

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Those should work for any Tundra except for the PRO version. You should be fine with those.
 
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