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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Couple weeks ago I was getting loaded up to head out for the weekend ao i was in and out of my truck quite abit. After getting all loaded up went to start up the truck an got the click click click. GREAT DEAD BATTERY. Thinking batter is original (08) had seemed like it wasnt starting quite as fast for the past few months I decided I would just jump it and buy a new battery on my way out of town.
So I bought a new battery and for shits and giggles had them test my original battery. 86% is what they said. So I thought it gotta be a fluke!
So installed the new battery and headed out. Well I noticed that most of the time my battery gauge was reading below the normal 14 or so.
So today I took it to a Starter and Alternator repair place and had them test it. Sure as shit its only charging at a 13.2 rate. WTF truck has less than 35k on it.
Only electrical changes I have made is I put HIDs in the low beams and fogs. But battery seamed like it was headed south before I put them in. Anyone else had this issue???
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Charging an old dead battery is hard on an alternator.
Its not old now, its brand new. Even the old one when tested was still 86%.
 
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I just replaced mine last week. I have 49 k miles on my truck. Over $900. Toyota Quality.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just replaced mine last week. I have 49 k miles on my truck. Over $900. Toyota Quality.
At 49k its not still covered under warrantee? Whats the cutoff date or milage for it to be covered?
 

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Its not old now, its brand new. Even the old one when tested was still 86%.
Jump starting a dead battery means the alternator did a lot of work to fully charge the battery afterward. Alternators are not meant to do that kind of work and the electronics in them can blow up even after having to do that kind of work once. I've seen plenty of different cars need an alternator every time they needed a new battery.

BTW, I had a one year old OEM battery completely die in my Toyota Sienna because when the doors are left open it drains the battery slowly. We park the minivan in the garage and use to leave the doors open all the time. I charged the battery up with a battery charger and even though the same thing happened numerous times the OEM battery still lasted 6 years. BTW, the battery was replaced even though it was still strong enough to hold a charge and start the car.

The point is use a charger to charge the battery and not your alternator. Your battery and alternator will last much longer this way.
 

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I didnt buy the extended warranty...kicking myself now. 3 year/36000 mile warranty. The alternator was not covered under 5 year/60000 powertrain. I didnt really think I needed an extended warranty. Hey...it's a Toyota after all. I'm pretty pissed at Toyota these days. So far, my head unit, water pump, timing belt, alternator, and 3 AC blower motors have broke. All before 50k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I didnt buy the extended warranty...kicking myself now. 3 year/36000 mile warranty. The alternator was not covered under 5 year/60000 powertrain. I didnt really think I needed an extended warranty. Hey...it's a Toyota after all. I'm pretty pissed at Toyota these days. So far, my head unit, water pump, timing belt, alternator, and 3 AC blower motors have broke. All before 50k miles.
Im going to take it in to the dealor today or tomorrow and HOPE they cover it under the 36k warrantee. Its under 36k but over 3 years. I can only hope right???
 

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I won't jump start another vehicle with my truck. But when I used to do it with older vehicles, I would just leave the motor off.

Learned the hard way with my Blazer, helped a guy with an old car a few times and it killed the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm telling u guys it could be the fuse! That's what happened to mine!

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Double DS,
What was happened exactly with urs?
I have drivin mine well over 200 miles since i have noticed the battery gauge only at 13.2. It also fluctuates from time to time from normal charge (14.2) to the 13.2 (most of the time).
 

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Mine fluctuated also for about a month so it made me feel like my alt was goin out then it finally stop working, so I did a little test and found out it was my fuse not my alt.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mine fluctuated also for about a month so it made me feel like my alt was goin out then it finally stop working, so I did a little test and found out it was my fuse not my alt.

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I will check that when I get home. Whats the test you did before u realized what the problem was???
 

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I connected a jumper cable from the positive on the battery to the positive on the alt then turn on the truck and check your charging and if it is normal then it is only the fuse

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I connected a jumper cable from the positive on the battery to the positive on the alt then turn on the truck and check your charging and if it is normal then it is only the fuse

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How did you do the test as u explained? 5.7? From what I was told the alternator is under the manifold? I looked at the fuses and I cant tell which one exactly is for the alternator? Can you post a pic maybe?
 

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Here is a pic of the fuse box, the closer pic is where the fuse is under the four cutouts in the plastic under the glass next to the bolt. I never replaced the fuse, I just ran a battery cable and added a 175amp fuse to the alternate battery cable. The fuse is around $60 without labor for install, I couldn't figure out how to remove it and having the dealer do it is my last resort, somebody on tundra solutions was able to figure it out but didn't give detail on how to do it. Now all I'm saying is I would check that first to see if it is the alt or the fuse

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