[Livinglife]

Hey guys, I have a 2014 tundra with the 5.7 4WD. I was on the highway the other night coming home and out of the blue the traction control kicked on for no reason, it was dry roads but very cold out. This limited my engines power and then my power would come back and then the truck would do it again so I had to pull over because I could no longer accelerate. I immediately pulled off the highway. The truck went into some kind of safe mode id assume because now I can drive it. It drives great it just has the slip indicator light stuck on and abs light stuck on with 4HI and 4LO flashing. 4HI and 4LO don't come on until after I start moving after starting the truck up. I can put it into 4wd before the lights start flashing and it locks in but never after the lights flashing. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? I searched the forum already and found a few people with similar issues but not identical to what I have going on. Figured maybe someone here had this exact same issue nd could shed some light on it.

thanks guys.

 

[homeyclaus]

Something hit one of your ABS sensor wires while you were driving. Rare, but it happens. Connecting it to Toyota diagnostics will tell you which one.

 

[Livinglife]

All the wires look intact but I’ll look over them all again. I already replaced a wheel speed sensor because that’s what I thought it was from having my ECU scanned.

 

[Brian50]

All the wires look intact but I’ll look over them all again. I already replaced a wheel speed sensor because that’s what I thought it was from having my ECU scanned.

Hi my name is Brian. Did you ever get the problem fixed with your Tundra? I have the same lights on with the 4hi 4lo flashing.

 

[REO Tundra]

Hi. I'm wondering if anyone has successfully troubleshot this issue. My truck is: 2013 double cab 4wd with 5.7 flex fuel. My symptoms are very similar to the OP. All lights did this at the same time and I was coming to a stop sign, so moving slowly. There was some growling noise under the truck, and I believe it was in the front differential. Only made the sound once, but it was at the same time. I did a visual of my ABS wiring and it all seems to be solid. I'll research the continuity testing process to confirm no air gaps and check voltage. I've also read other possibilities with similar issues, but this is the first I've seen with the same symptoms that my truck is experiencing. Insight would be great. Thanks in advance. Sorry for the lengthy post.

 

[Brian55]

Hi my name is Brian. Did you ever get the problem fixed with your Tundra? I have the same lights on with the 4hi 4lo flashing.

Hey so I changed out my left rear wheel sensor. I also changed the front driverside drive shaft wheel bearing because it was making noise. My ECU scan said it was the wheel speed sensor. I know the bearing was bad so I did both at the same time. Knock on wood everything is working good now. Hope this helps.

 

[REO Tundra]

Hey so I changed out my left rear wheel sensor. I also changed the front driverside drive shaft wheel bearing because it was making noise. My ECU scan said it was the wheel speed sensor. I know the bearing was bad so I did both at the same time. Knock on wood everything is working good now. Hope this helps.

Thanks Brian. I'll start looking into the speed sensors. Did your ABS and/or slip indicator light(s) come on, or just the flashing 4hi and 4lo?

 

[Brian55]

Thanks Brian. I'll start looking into the speed sensors. Did your ABS and/or slip indicator light(s) come on, or just the flashing 4hi and 4lo?

Yes the abs and slip indicator lights stayed on with the flashing 4hi and 4lo.

 

[REO Tundra]

Prefect. That helps my troubleshooting process. Thanks for the quick responses.

 

[Decreasing Dave]

Prefect. That helps my troubleshooting process. Thanks for the quick responses.

Any resolution on this REO?

My truck did this to me tonight. Came out of Sam's Club, loaded up the goodies, started the truck and drove up the parking lot. In traffic, in the lot, I hit the brakes and got the growling sound, presumably from the ABS as I could feel it in the brake pedal. At my first opportunity, I pulled over and checked under and in the engine compartment of the truck. I found nothing obvious, at least not in the dark with a flashlight.

Once I started the truck again and started to drive away, I had the flashing 4hi and 4lo lights with a steady ABS and I think a steady Traction control lights. I can shut off the truck and the light go away upon restart but as soon as I start moving the lights start flashing again. The ABS light never shuts off.

Dave

 

[REO Tundra]

Any resolution on this REO?

My truck did this to me tonight. Came out of Sam's Club, loaded up the goodies, started the truck and drove up the parking lot. In traffic, in the lot, I hit the brakes and got the growling sound, presumably from the ABS as I could feel it in the brake pedal. At my first opportunity, I pulled over and checked under and in the engine compartment of the truck. I found nothing obvious, at least not in the dark with a flashlight.

Once I started the truck again and started to drive away, I had the flashing 4hi and 4lo lights with a steady ABS and I think a steady Traction control lights. I can shut off the truck and the light go away upon restart but as soon as I start moving the lights start flashing again. The ABS light never shuts off.

Dave

Decreasing Dave.
Your experience is almost exactly what mine was. Mine happened last week, and in my online searches Brian55 had the closest symptoms to mine. I haven't had a chance to do the work yet, but I'm going with what Brian55 did. He did an ECU scan and replaced the speed sensor on one of the wheels. I just need to determine which one is bad. So ECU scan is my next move.

 

[Decreasing Dave]

Decreasing Dave.
Your experience is almost exactly what mine was. Mine happened last week, and in my online searches Brian55 had the closest symptoms to mine. I haven't had a chance to do the work yet, but I'm going with what Brian55 did. He did an ECU scan and replaced the speed sensor on one of the wheels. I just need to determine which one is bad. So ECU scan is my next move.

Mine too. I'm going to see if Autozone has a scanner that has ABS ability as mine does not. I cheaped out when I bought it thinking, "when will I ever use the ABS feature?"......yeah.

I already bought a rear set of speed sensors through Amazon. They'll be here on Thursday. It was $90 for the set with both sides. Taking a gamble, I know, but I'm a Prime member so I can send it back if it turns out poorly. I just didn't want to pay the dealer and wasn't sure who had these in stock. I need my truck.

I'll post back on here what I find, when I find it, so that there is more resolution to this problem. I did a bunch of searching. Lots of people have experienced it, but there is little cure listed.

Dave

 

[REO Tundra]

Mine too. I'm going to see if Autozone has a scanner that has ABS ability as mine does not. I cheaped out when I bought it thinking, "when will I ever use the ABS feature?"......yeah.

I already bought a rear set of speed sensors through Amazon. They'll be here on Thursday. It was $90 for the set with both sides. Taking a gamble, I know, but I'm a Prime member so I can send it back if it turns out poorly. I just didn't want to pay the dealer and wasn't sure who had these in stock. I need my truck.

I'll post back on here what I find, when I find it, so that there is more resolution to this problem. I did a bunch of searching. Lots of people have experienced it, but there is little cure listed.

Dave

Cool.

 

[Decreasing Dave]

Cool.

Ok, I verified which lights were on and which were blinking.

4hi and 4lo were blinking quickly.
VSC was blinking, but slower (I don't think speed matters, but #whatthehey).
Traction Control and ABS lights are on solid.

According to the Flashy Light Legend (see below), it's the rear speed sensors. Plural, so I don't know which one, maybe both.

I crawled around under the truck and could not find any evidence of a damaged wire anywhere, front or back

A friend hooked me up with another friend that owns a shop. He hooked up his Pro Grade OBDII reader and said that it was the LEFT REAR speed sensor.

I ordered a new speed sensor from Autozone with a lifetime warrantee for $189 +tax. In my conversation with the Toyota Parts guy, he indicated that the wires are typically more at fault than the sensor is. Sometimes they break under the heavy rubber sheathing and you can't see it. He recommended that I test continuity in the harness, especially since I now know where the problem lies (less work).

I will do that tomorrow. My harness arrives from Amazon tomorrow (Thursday) and the sensor will be in from Autozone as well. Before I pick up and pay for the sensor, I will eliminate the chance that it's the harness. $90 versus $189.

I'll update tomorrow. Hopefully it's easy, and it's the cheapest repair, and it's complete by the time I update tomorrow night.

Stay tuned.
Dave

.

 

[Decreasing Dave]

Whelp,

I tested the continuity of the wires from the plug near the frame to the plug at the sensor and I had continuity. So, I ASSUMED that it was the actual sensor. I went and paid for it at Autozone and went home to install it. Not a bad job, really.

I took it for a ride and I have the same issues!!

It still gets dark early so I'm waiting until Friday to change the wires in the rear, since I have them. I guess I'll just keep throwing new triple-digit parts at it until I find one that fixes the issue.

F.R.U.S.T.R.A.T.E.D.

Dave

 

[Decreasing Dave]

Whelp,

I tested the continuity of the wires from the plug near the frame to the plug at the sensor and I had continuity. So, I ASSUMED that it was the actual sensor. I went and paid for it at Autozone and went home to install it. Not a bad job, really.

I took it for a ride and I have the same issues!!

It still gets dark early so I'm waiting until Friday to change the wires in the rear, since I have them. I guess I'll just keep throwing new triple-digit parts at it until I find one that fixes the issue.

F.R.U.S.T.R.A.T.E.D.

Dave

Ok, so I changed the wires for the rear sensors. Also not a bad job. I pugged them into the new sensor and took it to the guy that ran the diagnostics on it before to clear the code.

SAME PROBLEM!! WTF?

We ran the truck down the road while using live monitoring and again it said that there was no signal from the left rear sensor.

I received a new sensor via Amazon for $16. I put that in and the same issues. This one was easier to plug in though as the Autozone one was a bitch to push the plug on all the way (more on that in a minute). Now the truck has started having Limp Mode issues. If I start out and drive about 50 feet, the truck goes into Limp Mode. I shut the truck off, wait 10 seconds, start it back up and it drives normal for the duration, albeit, with all the lights still flashing.

I cleaned up the connections from excess Dielectric Grease;
SIDEBAR: Upon installing a wiring harness in my son's KTM 250sx-f, I was getting a Fuel Injection code telling me that I was getting a good connection/decreased voltage to the fuel pump. It turned out to be excess Dielectric Grease on the connector.
Upon cleaning the Autozone sensor, I discovered that one of the pins was crushed down to the bottom and clearly not going into the plug properly. This explains why it was so difficult to get it to snap on properly.

So, where am I with all this right now?

I have a new rear harness and currently running the original left rear sensor, but I have a good(?) Amazon sensor and a bad(!) Autozone sensor as well, just not in the truck at the moment. I have had the code cleared by the Tech and am still having the same issues as originally. Tuesday it goes into the shop where the Tech said they can run pinpoint diagnostics to see where the disconnect is by starting on both ends and working their way to the middle. He says that they have seen solid looking, complete wires lose contact within themselves for no explainable reason other than maybe age or random trauma.

I guess we'll see.

Dave

 

[Decreasing Dave]

Ok, so I changed the wires for the rear sensors. Also not a bad job. I pugged them into the new sensor and took it to the guy that ran the diagnostics on it before to clear the code.

SAME PROBLEM!! WTF?

We ran the truck down the road while using live monitoring and again it said that there was no signal from the left rear sensor.

I received a new sensor via Amazon for $16. I put that in and the same issues. This one was easier to plug in though as the Autozone one was a bitch to push the plug on all the way (more on that in a minute). Now the truck has started having Limp Mode issues. If I start out and drive about 50 feet, the truck goes into Limp Mode. I shut the truck off, wait 10 seconds, start it back up and it drives normal for the duration, albeit, with all the lights still flashing.

I cleaned up the connections from excess Dielectric Grease;
SIDEBAR: Upon installing a wiring harness in my son's KTM 250sx-f, I was getting a Fuel Injection code telling me that I was getting a good connection/decreased voltage to the fuel pump. It turned out to be excess Dielectric Grease on the connector.
Upon cleaning the Autozone sensor, I discovered that one of the pins was crushed down to the bottom and clearly not going into the plug properly. This explains why it was so difficult to get it to snap on properly.

So, where am I with all this right now?

I have a new rear harness and currently running the original left rear sensor, but I have a good(?) Amazon sensor and a bad(!) Autozone sensor as well, just not in the truck at the moment. I have had the code cleared by the Tech and am still having the same issues as originally. Tuesday it goes into the shop where the Tech said they can run pinpoint diagnostics to see where the disconnect is by starting on both ends and working their way to the middle. He says that they have seen solid looking, complete wires lose contact within themselves for no explainable reason other than maybe age or random trauma.

I guess we'll see.

Dave

Ok, so I heard back from the shop. They were about to tear into the harness above the tank and all when they looked into the hub and saw shrapnel. There were lots of metal filings and chunks. As it turns out, the hub assembly is toast. They are in the process of tearing it down and a new hub assembly is on the way. They will replace all of the seals as well.

With everything else checking out, I cannot see why this wouldn't be my main issue. We'll know more tomorrow and I'll update as I go.

Dave

 

[Decreasing Dave]

Ok, the truck is back 100%. Total spent for the job was $870. It cost them $225 at the machine shop to press the hub/bearing off/on. The bearing itself is a Moog and cost $158. A couple of the seals and O-rings wear not able to be purchased anywhere but Toyota at the usual Toyota premium. FYI, the local dealer said that they could do the press work for us for $375, $150 more than the machine shop we used and our machine shop had the adaptor necessary for the job already.

After reassembly, the original sensor was put back in and I now have a new rear ABS wiring harness on the truck because I replaced it when it wasn't the original issue. I am keeping the original one to clog up more room in my garage but "just in case".

244,000 miles before loosing the first wheel bearing. Kind of hard to complain about after doing some searching of the forums.

Dave