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Ok so I'm installing the 5100s on a 2010 crewmax 4x4. I removed the 4 bolts on top of the strut, I put on the spring tensioners to hold the spring under tension. I removed the nut for the lower A arm where the lower shock arm is mounted and I removed the nut for the sway bar.

Here's my problem, the bolt for both the lower shock arm and the sway arm aren't budging. I tried using a round bar to hammer out the lower bolt but before I removed it completely I realized if I remove the bolts completely I probably won't be able to put it back together. I'll try to upload photos of what I did so far but this site loves to automatically rotate my photos 180 degrees.

http://imgur.com/a/LeqEC
 

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You need a floor jack under the LCA to put upward pressure on it so the bolt does not bind. Also, you don't need the spring compressors on at that stage, just use them once you have the strut off the truck.
 

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FWIW,

I would not trust those dinky coil compressors on Tundra springs. I have a similar set and halfway through cranking them down I aborted. Borrow larger compressors.

You can also disconnect the sway bar at the other end of the link. Upward pressure from the floor jack and spray lube will be your friends. Once both bolts are out you will need to apply downward pressure on the LCA to extract the coilover.
 

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I have removed the two bolts that hold the lower arm to the spindle on both my tunder and the fj... And then the tunder again (long story, had to do it twice, doesn't matter)...

With the lower control arm unbolted it will allow enough down travel that you can get the assembly out/in.

Also, double what he said about the spring compressors. The ones I had tried didn't properly or securely grab the coil as it is bigger diameter. Even the shop I took them to had issues. I mean like took them 45 min to swap two springs on my second bout.

Also, I removed the sway bar from both sides of the truck so it wouldn't be under tension. IF you are trying to do one side at a time it will fight what you are trying to do.

The second time I had them out in about 30 mins. Spent more time waiting for them to swap my springs over than anything else.
 

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For all of the leveling kits I've put on, I found that the easiest way was to loosen the lower a arm bolts and remove the sway bar mounts from the frame to take pressure off. The sway bar mounts are a little tight to reach with the skid plate on. Disconnect the lower ball joint versus the top so you don't have to fight with the hub assembly when you're putting the new strut in place. The lower a arm will drop to the floor when you've removed the bolt. Even doing that I still had to turn the bolts out on my truck. There doesn't seem to be much of a sweet spot on these trucks to just pull the bolt out.

To put it back together I used a heavy ratchet strap looped through the upper a arm and under the lower to pull it all back into place. Be very mindful of placement and watch it as you ratchet the arms together. A few adjustments to line up the eye for the strut and the bolts for the lower ball joint and you're back in business for assembly.
 

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Lots of good advice above, but if you do decide to light your truck on fire please post some video
 

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+ Like 5 on video.


I dunno, but removing the entire lca with just two bolts, with no chance of damage to the lower bj... Seems alot more easier, and easier.

I have seen too many people damage the bj trying to use a pickle fork...

There are two bolts, they come out. No hitting with a hammer, no four letter words...

AND, without loosening the main adjustable lca bolts, it makes it soo much more likely that when you go to get it alighned, it might actually be kinda close, especially when the primary adjustment bolts weren't loosened.

I mean, you can really move the lca around if you really wanted to.
 

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I wasn't able to get enough leverage to get the strut into the bottom pocket so I loosened the lca. My truck was the second Tundra that I put 5100s on, and I struggled with it until I reached the "torch the truck" phase. Then I sacrificed the alignment for ease of install.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I had to call my dad who's in his 60s to come help me solve my woes. We ended up loosening the lower sway bar bolt, lower shock strut bolt, the 2 bolts that hold the ball joint on the spindle, and the 2 #10 bolts that hold the brake lines on the spindle. With all that loose we were able to use a breaker bar as leverage to force the lower A arm down enough to slide the shock and spring assembly out.

We didn't want to mess with the lower A Arm bolts that are closer to the frame since I didn't want to mess with the alignment.

By the way I had to use my dad's set of spring compressors along with my set of harbor freight ones to compress the spring enough. For those of you who try using a wrench to tighten the spring compressors, DONT. use an impact, so much easier and you can remove the spring in about 5 minutes using an impact.

Since there's no real videos of someone doing an install on our trucks I'll have to make a how to. And what I mean by no real videos is that all the ones I watched so it in steps but they don't show you how to remove the bolts and release the tensions on many things. That toytec video was useless, they totally skip the guy unbolting the steering arm and upper ball joint which to me was unnecessary.
 

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I pop the uca ball joint, remove the 10mm bracket that holds the abs line. Disconnect the sway bar from both sides. Then I use a large ratchet strap going from one lca to the other. Tighten the strap up and that pulls the control arm down. Plenty of room to swap them out. Takes me about 1.5-2 hr's to do both sides working on the floor. After they are swapped out I put the jack under the lca and lift till the frame just barely is off the jack stand. Uca ball joint goes back in with very little effort. Reinstall sway bar bolts after truck is back on the ground.

Also don't use that spring compressor. I have seen very bad thing happen from those. All the way from holes thru block wall to broken legs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I pop the uca ball joint, remove the 10mm bracket that holds the abs line. Disconnect the sway bar from both sides. Then I use a large ratchet strap going from one lca to the other. Tighten the strap up and that pulls the control arm down. Plenty of room to swap them out. Takes me about 1.5-2 hr's to do both sides working on the floor. After they are swapped out I put the jack under the lca and lift till the frame just barely is off the jack stand. Uca ball joint goes back in with very little effort. Reinstall sway bar bolts after truck is back on the ground.

Also don't use that spring compressor. I have seen very bad thing happen from those. All the way from holes thru block wall to broken legs.
thanks ill remember this when I install the same shocks on my brothers truck. Believe or not but I could not loosen the upper ball joint for the life of me. I took off the cotter pin and the nut but I kept hitting the ball joint to have it pop off and it wouldn't budget. So we had to improvise. Also the spring compressors were crap I know. I had to use my dad's 1980s stainless steel spring compressors to do it.
 

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thanks ill remember this when I install the same shocks on my brothers truck. Believe or not but I could not loosen the upper ball joint for the life of me. I took off the cotter pin and the nut but I kept hitting the ball joint to have it pop off and it wouldn't budget. So we had to improvise. Also the spring compressors were crap I know. I had to use my dad's 1980s stainless steel spring compressors to do it.
Gotta whack the upper part of the knuckle after you loosen the uca nut. It pops right out.
 

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I apologize to the person that wrote how to do it and what specs to align it to but I did my 5100's with zero proiblems. I followed instructions exactly (for once in my life).

Was it SoCal that dd the write up?

I had a contractor here working on my house and I had customers calling and work I had to get done and I managed to do it all with zero problems.
 

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We didn't want to mess with the lower A Arm bolts that are closer to the frame since I didn't want to mess with the alignment.
I felt the same way when I did it, but in the end, loosening those bolts made it sooo much easier, and you won't have to disassemble any ball joints either. Youre probably gonna want to do an alignment anyway if youre messing with the ride height.
 

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I take the cotter pin out and loosen the nut just a little. To where the nut comes to the flush with the bolt. This protects the threads of the the ball joint. Then I spray some oil on the top of the ball joint where it can soak down the shaft and also on the threads. Then I use a sledge hammer holding the right behind the head a hit the crap out of the flat part on the spindle right by the ball joint. Most of the time just two or three hits is required. Hit it hard but keep it under control so u don't hit ur fender. Once loose just unscrew the rest of the nut. If the shaft starts to spin, just push by hand the ball joint down back into the spindle.
 

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Don't forget to do a ZPC when your done with the alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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Gotta whack the upper part of the knuckle after you loosen the uca nut. It pops right out.
Yea there are 2 bare metal sections on the spindle towards the top where it attaches to the uca. One on the side and one facing you. Hit them with a hammer. The ball joint pops loose really easy.
 
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