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After replacing the MOSFET, can anyone tell me if the issue will come back the next time I add some interior LED's? Or is replacing it a permanent fix? If it's not permanent how do I keep it from happening, simple battery disconnect while switching bulbs? Thanks
 

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The issue presents itself when you accidentally touch two of the voltage positive wires together. If you can change out the bulbs without touching any of the wires together you shouldn't have any more issues. But if you disconnect the battery when changing out the bulbs, you are safe and won't end up blowing the MOSFET gate again.
 

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I need help desperately

I know this is the tundra forum but you guys seem to have identified the problem and figured out a solution. Short description, I have the same problem described earlier, the A/C controls, gearshift lights and clock all turn off at night when the low or high beams are on. There was a short in the circuit that happened when I tried to hotwire the sunroof motors to open the sunroof when the button stopped working :banghead: :banghead: . The ACC fuse is not blown so I need this wire splicing trick, I do not care about the dimming switch and I don't know how to take the speedo apart to replace the MOFSET. I can get the Speedo out of the car but I do not know how to take the white housing off to expose the boards.

So one would ask why I am asking if already know what the solution is, well I do not have a tundra but I have a 2014 highlander and the wiring harness in the back of the speedo does not have 40 pins so I do not know where is this mysterious pin 37 that I need to ground. So what I am need is someone to tell me which one pin number corresponds to the tundra pin37 in the 2014 highlander. And when you say splice into it and ground it you mean run a wire form it to the body somewhere? Help is greatly appreciated and urgency is an issue. The dealer want $1200 to do this trick which is a robbery if you ask me, the car is only 4k out of warranty another stupid move by me to lease a car beyond its warranty. I bought two MOFSET but when I took the speedo cluster out of the car today I was not able to expose the board.

Attached is the pdf posted with the original solution, again my highlander does not have 40 pins. Also attached are pictures of the speedo cluster that I removed today.
 

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I would like to thank you all, you helped me figure out what the dealer could not and wanted to charge me close to 2k to diagnose it. In return I am going to post a step by step guide to fixing the issue described above without losing the dimmer switch functionality. You need to buy MOSFETS from 2SK2231(TE16R1,NQ) Toshiba Semiconductor and Storage | Discrete Semiconductor Products | DigiKey this was identical to the one I took off my 2014 highlander limited, and may reported it is the same in most toyota models.

1) Take a picture of the gauge cluster while the car is off (you will need it). Drop the steering column down and pull it towards you, as if you are a very small person driving the car. Remove the dash trim around the cluster gauge, it is a simple pull start at the bottom and work your way up. It is held by four snap in places.
2) Unsnap the plastic guard between the steering column and the bottom of dash trim.
3) Take out the two screws on top of the gauge cluster
3) Pull the gauge cluster out, start at the bottom then pull the top.
4) Take out the two plugs from the back of the gauge cluster
5) While looking at the gauge cluster, take the bottom left hand screw out.
6) Start pressing the plastic snaps to remove the face form the back of the gauge cluster
7) Now that the dials are exposed, cover the face with a paper and place a butter knife between the needle and the dial. With the knife on one side and you holding the needle on the other side snap up the needle. Do the same for all four needles.
8) Remove the dials out of the way, they are snapped in place
9) Remove the screws that you see to include what was covered by the dials
10) Remove the top of the gauge cluster exposing the board.
11) On the back of the board you will find the MOSFET switch that needs to be replaced. It is towards the top. It is identical to the one you purchased using the link above and it even has the same number.
12) Here is where I needed some professional help, I took the board to the local PC repair shop to unsolder the MOSFET and solder the new one on. I did not want to risk causing more damage. If you are savvy in soldering go for it.
13) Put the puzzle pieces back together using the steps above in reverse order and you are set. When you put the needles back in place, snap them in in a high speed, tach, temp and gas then turn them counter clockwise till you feel a little resistance then keep going till you align them to the zeros for the tachometer and speedometer, for temp and gas they go a bit to the left of the zero resembling the picture you took in step 1.

Enjoy, and you can go back to the dealer to rub it in their face that you fixed the problem in under 30 minutes for less then $2, no kidding the MOSFETS was $1 and $2 for shipping. I bought a couple in case I screwed up somewhere.
 

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I assume once you replace the MOSFET there is no longer a need to ground the #37 wire? It can be removed?

I never did ground that wire. I had to figure out the fault before I was going to cut into my wiring harness. I would assume you need to disconnect it in order to regain the dimmer function.
 

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Well I jumpered from J28 gauge cluster connector pin 37 to ground and all that happened is I lost dimming ability of HVAC lights, they went full bright.

My issue is that radio controls do not illuminate and center dash clock doesn't work at all. This is independent of headlights being on or off so I'm going to rule out the MOSFET transistor being my issue. Back to the wiring diagrams I go!
 

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You need to undo the jumper that you just made between the two pins, if you want full functionality of the clock and the dimmer switch. The MOFSET resistor is what needs to be changed. It is essentially a gate that allows voltage off or on. It's an easy fix, and a cheap fix.
 

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So my problem was different than most. Before touching anything my hvac lights still worked and clock never worked, radio also had no backlighting, didn't matter headlights on or off, dinner adjusted anywhere. Jumpering the pin 37 wire was just my way of testing my mosfet. The jumper didn't make my clock work or radio lights work and all it did was take away dimmed function of hvac lights. I did not permanently install the jumper because my mosfet was proved good by that test. I pulled up wiring diagrams and found common wiring between clock and radio to connector "DE" most likely a grey wire powered by fuse 57 a 7.5 amp ACC fuse. I pulled the dash apart. No power to that grey wire on the clock. Power to the grey wire on the radio was jankily stolen from elsewhere and spliced in! Undo that now radio won't even turn on, no power to grey wire. Pull out gauge cluster and chase wire across dash. Found it hanging in driver footwell, an 8 pin connector that goes to the top rear of the fuse panel I'm assuming is "DE" plugged it in. Everything works!


Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 

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Ok guys I’m a tad lost.. I found the pin37 wire.. I cut it and connected both ends to a ground and with my headlights on clock still doesn’t work.. did I do something wrong?
 

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I had the same problem. You blew your illumination circuit ground which runs into the combination meter(guage cluster). You need to pull your gauge cluster and splice into the red wire and add a new ground. Poor engineering! If there is a short then a fuse should blow not your combination meter!
I spliced the wire like you said and it worked the only problem I’m having now is all the lights that do work normally dim down when the dash lights come on... any help?
 

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Enjoy, and you can go back to the dealer to rub it in their face that you fixed the problem in under 30 minutes for less then $2, no kidding the MOSFETS was $1 and $2 for shipping. I bought a couple in case I screwed up somewhere.
[/QUOTE]

Do you have any MOSFETS I can buy off you?
 

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Enjoy, and you can go back to the dealer to rub it in their face that you fixed the problem in under 30 minutes for less then $2, no kidding the MOSFETS was $1 and $2 for shipping. I bought a couple in case I screwed up somewhere.
Do you have any MOSFETS I can buy off you?
 

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Do you have any MOSFETS I can buy off you?
I have qty 10 I didn't end up using on mine (yet) I will sell most of them if anyone wants one or two quicker than waiting for China. $3 shipped USPS US 48 per piece PayPal ff to cover time stamp envelope. Shoot me a PM for PayPal info and include your mailing address.
 

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I have qty 10 I didn't end up using on mine (yet) I will sell most of them if anyone wants one or two quicker than waiting for China. $3 shipped USPS US 48 per piece PayPal ff to cover time stamp envelope. Shoot me a PM for PayPal info and include your mailing address.
Do you know the exact model? Can you post a picture? Im looking specifically for TOSHIBA 2SK2399(TE16R1,NQ). TIA
 

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The description is "2SK2231 SMD Japan-Transistor DPAK TO252" heres the picture from the listing I bought them from. I never even opened them cause it wasn't my issue but sounds like it doesn't match what you're looking for.
881304
 
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