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Truck is 4 months old....very frustrating. I know toyota won't fix it because I added stereo pieces to the truck.
 

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And how does this happen? Is it by a load on the wire somehow? Just confused how this can even happen
 

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And how does this happen? Is it by a load on the wire somehow? Just confused how this can even happen
I think it occurs by grounding a wire inside the string with power in the system.

Lesson is unhook the battery (and discharge) EVERY TIME you are wiring something.
 

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Did anyone with this issue have problems with their automatic steering wheel position? Usually when I start the truck the steering wheel and seat move where I want them, now they stay put until I push the button on the door. I'm confident the "pin 37 ground" will fix my light issue but I don't know what's going on with the steering wheel function.
 

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holy hell that looks like a pita just for a new radio. makes me glad my truck came with something i dont ever want to replace
 

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I was installing new switches in the panel next to the gear shift. I wanted the LED's in the switch to dim with the rest of my dash. I accidentally touched two of the wires and voila' no more dash lights. The truck was under warranty so I was going to let TOYOTA do a hunt for the "defective" part and replace. Well the dealership closet to my house in New Orleans kept the truck for four days and couldn't find the issue. SO I downloaded all of the TIS manual and went to studying. When I finally read all the schematics and all the posts I could find, the link I posted above led me to the correct diagnosis and part buy. I bought five pieces of the MOFSET, in case I blew another one, and took it apart one afternoon. You have to remove the combination meter (gauge cluster) and take it apart. Once you get to the board inside, there is only one MOFSET on the board. Unsolder it and replace. Put everything back in, and back to working. All in all 30-35 mins total. The switches I put in are from On Board Air. I modified them so the LED on top is lit when in "ON" position, and the words light up when the dash lights come on, and dim with the dimmer switch. The second picture has an arrow pointing to the location.
 

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I was installing new switches in the panel next to the gear shift. I wanted the LED's in the switch to dim with the rest of my dash. I accidentally touched two of the wires and voila' no more dash lights. The truck was under warranty so I was going to let TOYOTA do a hunt for the "defective" part and replace. Well the dealership closet to my house in New Orleans kept the truck for four days and couldn't find the issue. SO I downloaded all of the TIS manual and went to studying. When I finally read all the schematics and all the posts I could find, the link I posted above led me to the correct diagnosis and part buy. I bought five pieces of the MOFSET, in case I blew another one, and took it apart one afternoon. You have to remove the combination meter (gauge cluster) and take it apart. Once you get to the board inside, there is only one MOFSET on the board. Unsolder it and replace. Put everything back in, and back to working. All in all 30-35 mins total. The switches I put in are from On Board Air. I modified them so the LED on top is lit when in "ON" position, and the words light up when the dash lights come on, and dim with the dimmer switch. The second picture has an arrow pointing to the location.
Awesome! Thanks. I ordered a couple last night
 

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Haven't had all my lights working for some time. Plan on ordering a few of these MOSFET things and going at it. Any advice on getting the gauge cluster out? Part of me just wants to do the quicker "ground the white/green wire trick", but I want it done correctly. I'll post some steps and pics as soon as Im done.
 

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Believe me I know how you feel. I wanted the dimmer switch to function, because it was there! I will always tackle something like this myself, but only after coming to these message boards and reading up on things. The wealth of information from people is truly astounding. The gauge cluster comes out pretty easy, just pull the panel over it off slowly and not force anything. The only issue I have ever encountered is trying to get it back on with the a/c vents attached. Once you do get it out, go inside and take your time taking it apart. It was the first time I ever pulled gauge needles off, but again, after reading up on this site, I was confident in doing it. It is a great source of pride to be able to tell the dealership technicians (3 in fact) that each spent a day on trying to find the problem, that it was a part less than $2 to fix. And it was done in less than an hour!
 

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turning my headlights on, my clock and the center console light (A/C control) does not turn on. If i replace the mofset will it work? And if it does, does the dimmer switch work after replacing the mofset? thanks for the help
 

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Believe me I know how you feel. I wanted the dimmer switch to function, because it was there! I will always tackle something like this myself, but only after coming to these message boards and reading up on things. The wealth of information from people is truly astounding. The gauge cluster comes out pretty easy, just pull the panel over it off slowly and not force anything. The only issue I have ever encountered is trying to get it back on with the a/c vents attached. Once you do get it out, go inside and take your time taking it apart. It was the first time I ever pulled gauge needles off, but again, after reading up on this site, I was confident in doing it. It is a great source of pride to be able to tell the dealership technicians (3 in fact) that each spent a day on trying to find the problem, that it was a part less than $2 to fix. And it was done in less than an hour!
Hey.. got the same problem. Glad you found a solution!! Where did you order the MOSFET and do you have a part #? Does it need to be resoldered?
 

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Thank you, but I didn't really figure it out. I sat with the TIS schematics for almost a week, studying them. I knew it had to be that MOFSET which acts as a gate to ground. Once I knew that it had to be the culprit, I searched online and the other TOYOTA forum had a thread with the part # and everything. HE is the one that figured it out. But it does feel good to know that I could fix it, when the Toyota dealership here spent three days on my truck and couldn't figure it out. They didn't want to spend the $400 for a new gauge cluster. My warranty covers everything until 100k miles. So I got the satisfaction of doing myself, and got to write up a nice letter to the Dealership's owner.
 
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