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I live in the Houston area, where winter temps rarely go below 20 degrees F, but summer temps are frequently 95 degrees F or higher. My 2011 Tundra 5.7L has 2,500 miles and I am trying to figure out which synthetic to go to the dealer with when my first service interval comes. It feels like the Amsoil Signature 0W-30 or the Mobil1 0W-30 would be great choices, even though the 30 weight is not listed on the oil filler cap.

My Tundra is my daily driver. My commute to the office is 18 miles each way. There will not be many times where I tow anything, or haul 1,000 lb in the bed. I just want the best protection for my engine, as I want this truck to last 10 years or more.

Is there a compelling reason NOT to do a synthetic 0W-30 instead of the recommended 0W-20?
 

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Is there a compelling reason NOT to do a synthetic 0W-30 instead of the recommended 0W-20?
The most compelling reason is what it says on the oil cap. The Toyota design and lubrication engineers have decided that 0-20 or 5-20 is the best oil to use in the 5.7 engine. Contrary to what has been stated in this thread, bean counters do not dictate to engineers how to design or recommend lubrication.
 

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................ Contrary to what has been stated in this thread, bean counters do not dictate to engineers how to design or recommend lubrication.
Oh really? Well I need to tell the been counter were I work then to stop telling me that.

I am an engineer also and deal with this on a daily basis. I am paid to engineer and design to a specification and and if that specification has upper and lower range limits, those limits can be parsed on either end when it goes to the technical service data people.

Engineers are overridden all the time in a production environment.
 

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Oh really? Well I need to tell the been counter were I work then to stop telling me that.

I am an engineer also and deal with this on a daily basis. I am paid to engineer and design to a specification and and if that specification has upper and lower range limits, those limits can be parsed on either end when it goes to the technical service data people.

Engineers are overridden all the time in a production environment.
So your telling me your name is on the design and he is telling you how to design? Who's ass is on the line if there is a failure? I would never let anyone dictate a cost cutting measure if the design would be compromised.
 

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OKAY I'll say this again..

From everything I've read.

And from what it clearly states IN OUR OWNER MANUALS.

It IS Perfectly OKAY to run a Higher Viscosity oil.

So having 5W-30 in our engines isn't going to EFF anything up and in fact is recommended IN THE OWNERS MANUAL if you subject your engine to certain conditions.

5W-30 = OK TO USE
0W-30 = OK TO USE
 

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OKAY I'll say this again..

From everything I've read.

And from what it clearly states IN OUR OWNER MANUALS.

It IS Perfectly OKAY to run a Higher Viscosity oil.

So having 5W-30 in our engines isn't going to EFF anything up and in fact is recommended IN THE OWNERS MANUAL if you subject your engine to certain conditions.

5W-30 = OK TO USE
0W-30 = OK TO USE
Right. This is stated in every vehicle's manual, along with my quad and motorcycle manuals. I live in FL, so I do tend to run one weight higher (i.e.-5w30 right now) and I tow 75%+ of the time. I go through oil changes like water and have been doing the Xpress Lube conventional 5w30, putting on the leveling kit so it's easy to get under and switching to 5w20 Mobil 1 driveway changes soon...
 

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So your telling me your name is on the design and he is telling you how to design? Who's ass is on the line if there is a failure? I would never let anyone dictate a cost cutting measure if the design would be compromised.
Always a paper trail of who approves or overrides what. Happens all the time in any industry.

There is a balancing act between engineering, production and cost departments. Each one of these departs has cost to benefit ratio to consider. Many of the engineer flubs of the auto industry for the last 30-40 years can be traced back to a bean counter overriding an engineer and going the cheaper route.

I am not advocating anybody not follow the manual. Just pointing out that the manual has been tempered with cost and legal consideration. As I mentioned before, all you have to do is research the same engines used in overseas markets and you will see that a wider range of oil is called out. This means these engines can work in a slightly larger range of viscosity that what is called out now to meet CAFE standards.

I challenge anyone to show me where a engine spec'd for 5W-20 that failed for lubrication problems only for using 5W-30 or even 10W-30.

Ford was one of the first to get on the 'thin is in" bandwagon with advocating 5W-20 and even back spec'd it to many previous model years. Funny thing in the case of the 4.6L modular engine that call for 5W-20, many tens of thousands of Police Crown vics were maintained on 10-30, 10W-40 and even 15W-40 HDEO because that is what the fleet shop manager would throw in as he did not want the headache of worrying about an extra oil type to keep around.
 

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I live in the Houston area, where winter temps rarely go below 20 degrees F, but summer temps are frequently 95 degrees F or higher. My 2011 Tundra 5.7L has 2,500 miles and I am trying to figure out which synthetic to go to the dealer with when my first service interval comes. It feels like the Amsoil Signature 0W-30 or the Mobil1 0W-30 would be great choices, even though the 30 weight is not listed on the oil filler cap.

My Tundra is my daily driver. My commute to the office is 18 miles each way. There will not be many times where I tow anything, or haul 1,000 lb in the bed. I just want the best protection for my engine, as I want this truck to last 10 years or more.

Is there a compelling reason NOT to do a synthetic 0W-30 instead of the recommended 0W-20?
No, in the heat 30w will protect your engine better. I have a couple cases of amsoil signature 0w-30 ready for my next oil change. Can't find Mobil around here.

Sent From Droid Thunderbolt Via AutoGuide
 

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Basically, an engine will run on a variety of viscosities. There are varying factors such as outside climate, the type of strain the motor will see, etc. However, those who are saying what Toyota recommends should be used have a valid point. The warranty issue is a big thing for one, and I'm sure the OP had that concern. The other is that I'm sure Toyota has a reason for recommending what they did. Not because it is the only oil that will work, but it's the best on average. Sure, someone might benefit from thinner, someone else might benefit from thicker as the variables are taken into consideration. I agree with running what is recommended and will switch soon enough, but I also believe the motor will do just fine with w30, for example.
 

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It's whatever.

If you need something in black and white and clear as crystal then thats you.

I know what my manual says and it doesn't say anything about NOT using 5W-30

In fact, it encourages a higher viscosity under certain conditions is more then enough to tell me that using 5W-30 is perfectly okay.
 

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I run 5w20, but will consider moving to 0w30 after my warranty runs out
 

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As it relates to changes...my wife's '08 RX350 manual recommends conventional 5w30. I prefer synthetic, and the dealer at one point used 5w30 Synthetic (this particular dealer used Chevron). a few years later (I generally change the oil myself now), I've found out the dealer changed to 5 or 0 w20 - and this is on the same car/engine. I think it is recommended for the newer engines to use 0/5 w20, and for convenience they use that for older engines as well. I was surprised, as stated, the manual recommended 5w30 (albeit dino), it recommends the same for synthetic.

At the end of the day folks can decide what they chose to use, but it seems even the dealers are not too religious about this - granted it's not their car, but they do have warranty to deal with...anyway just thinking out loud....
 

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The manufacturer needs to state that 5w30 is ok to use.
I personally do believe that 5w 30 is better for the engines especially in hotter climates, but the manufacturers believe the 5w20 will get better gas mileage out of an engine not make the engine last longer.

I have ext warranty and if engine crapped out and I had 5w30 in it, I don't want TOYOTA to say anything about the fluid.
 

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I live in the Houston area, where winter temps rarely go below 20 degrees F, but summer temps are frequently 95 degrees F or higher. My 2011 Tundra 5.7L has 2,500 miles and I am trying to figure out which synthetic to go to the dealer with when my first service interval comes. It feels like the Amsoil Signature 0W-30 or the Mobil1 0W-30 would be great choices, even though the 30 weight is not listed on the oil filler cap.

My Tundra is my daily driver. My commute to the office is 18 miles each way. There will not be many times where I tow anything, or haul 1,000 lb in the bed. I just want the best protection for my engine, as I want this truck to last 10 years or more.

Is there a compelling reason NOT to do a synthetic 0W-30 instead of the recommended 0W-20?
You could guess......
Or go to AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases and, the PRODUCT LOOKUP GUIDES on the right and find the right product.
 

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You all should ask yourself, what oil would you run if you did NOT have warranty left? ;)

Sent from my ADR6300 using AutoGuide App
 

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..............I have ext warranty and if engine crapped out and I had 5w30 in it, I don't want TOYOTA to say anything about the fluid.
They can say all they want but in the end, they will have to prove that the use of a 5W-30 caused the issue.

Given the vague wording of the manual that allow for unspecified higher viscosities for certain conditions and the fact that many Toyota dealers throw in 5W-30 anyways in their lube bays, this will be the least of your worries.
 
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