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I appreciate it. Yeah I took lots of pictures in hopes that it might help some others make a decision, and stream line their build. All the guess work is taken out of it now.

As far as my bumper/winch helping, in my case, yes I feel like I might be a 1/4" nose high (wouldn't be extreme), if I didn't have the bumper and winch on there. Now keep in mind, I have a double cab and everyone says double cabs sit a little higher on the same lift compared to a crewmax, so if you have a crewmax you may be fine. Also keep in mind that I have a heavier rear bumper as well, so that is probably pulling the rear down a little as well. Maybe these will settle more after a few months but I am close to 3 weeks on them and over 1,500 miles and they don't seem to be settling anymore. I wish I could get clarification on if the 6112s use to be 600 lbs. I know these are 650 lb springs from talking to Boss4x4s... so maybe thats why mine sits level at 1.9" setting even with the bumper/winch.
Awesome! Thanks!

The bumper/winch was more on my radar as far as ‘less stuff down there to rub on’ for the tires of that size.

I think I am going to make my truck look as much like yours as I can haha.
 

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Reading through this thread because Im about to do this to my truck. Really would love to see the pics. Anybody know why they won't pop up for me? Just says attached pics and nothing is there. Bummed.

Thanks in advance for any possible help.

CJ
 

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Awesome! Thanks!

The bumper/winch was more on my radar as far as ‘less stuff down there to rub on’ for the tires of that size.

I think I am going to make my truck look as much like yours as I can haha.
Bumper:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-2018-Toyota-Tundra-Front-Bumper-Steel-Winch-Ready-KO-Offroad-Black-Powder-/201683297065

Bilstein 6112s Lift:
https://www.boss4x4s.com/bilstein_6112_series_lift_kit_assembled_2007tundra_please_allow_72_business_hours_receive_tracking

Engo 12,000 winch:
http://www.rockridge4wd.com/i-21251009-engo-sr12-12000-lbs-winch-with-cable-3-8-x-85-heavy-duty-roller-fairlead-97-12000.html

Look around for a discount code for the website above on Google, they are easy to find and will save you an additional $35 or so.

The wheels are sold by Discount Tire, I think they are the "house brand", called MB Wheels. They are the only nice looking wheels I've found under $700 for all 4 in 20x9 with +25 offset. They also have a deal right now for "up to 20% back of total tire and wheel purchase price on a visa gift card". Thats a sweet deal!

The tires I had price matched by Discount Tire off of a website called simple tire. It saved me like $200. Ill post the screen shot below.

That is everything.
 

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Oh also, on the winch, I highly recommend you relocate the solenoid to under your hood, and NOT mount it on top of the winch. If the solenoid ever goes out a few years down the road, you will have to pull the entire front bumper to get it off the winch. If its mounted under the hood, it stays cleaner, less exposed to moisture, and can easily be swapped out. You will need this wiring kit to extend the cables to mount it under the hood:

Winch wire kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Battery-Flexible-Terminal-Connectors/dp/B01M7Y753V

The factory wire is 2 gauge which is fine for like 24 inches, but since we will be remote mounting it under the hood, which is about a 8 foot run, you need to go to that larger gauge wire to account for voltage drop. I used a electricians website voltage calculator to ensure that wire there will work at 8 feet. Its pure copper wire, with copper connectors, and heat shrink tubing... everything you need. Just cut the wire into 3 equal lengths (8 foot and 4 inches each).

You will also need this crimping tool as well if you don't know someone who has a large crimper.

Crimp tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Forney-57637-Lug-Crimping-Tool/dp/B003X51S00

I will also attach a picture of where we mounted the solenoid under my hood. We have done this on two different tundras and both work great.
 

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Bumper:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-2018-Toyota-Tundra-Front-Bumper-Steel-Winch-Ready-KO-Offroad-Black-Powder-/201683297065

Bilstein 6112s Lift:
https://www.boss4x4s.com/bilstein_6112_series_lift_kit_assembled_2007tundra_please_allow_72_business_hours_receive_tracking

Engo 12,000 winch:
http://www.rockridge4wd.com/i-21251009-engo-sr12-12000-lbs-winch-with-cable-3-8-x-85-heavy-duty-roller-fairlead-97-12000.html

Look around for a discount code for the website above on Google, they are easy to find and will save you an additional $35 or so.

The wheels are sold by Discount Tire, I think they are the "house brand", called MB Wheels. They are the only nice looking wheels I've found under $700 for all 4 in 20x9 with +25 offset. They also have a deal right now for "up to 20% back of total tire and wheel purchase price on a visa gift card". Thats a sweet deal!

The tires I had price matched by Discount Tire off of a website called simple tire. It saved me like $200. Ill post the screen shot below.

That is everything.


IMHO your build should be a sticky haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Question for SLPace, or anyone with an opinion. First off, I’m not a welder, so this comes from a place of complete ignorance. If the primary problem with 5100s is a subpar weld, would it not fix the problem if a person were to complete the weld all the way around the problematic joint? I realize that would probably void the manufacturer warranty, but if it fixes the main problem with the product, does that really matter? Is the ride quality so much better on the 6112 that a superior weld is worth spending 3x as much?
 

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Question for SLPace, or anyone with an opinion. First off, I’m not a welder, so this comes from a place of complete ignorance. If the primary problem with 5100s is a subpar weld, would it not fix the problem if a person were to complete the weld all the way around the problematic joint? I realize that would probably void the manufacturer warranty, but if it fixes the main problem with the product, does that really matter? Is the ride quality so much better on the 6112 that a superior weld is worth spending 3x as much?
I think you are waaaaaaay overthinking this.I'm not sure that the welds on the 5100's could be considered "subpar" and I certainly would not go to the trouble of adding extra welds to a perfectly adequate shock.Just get the one that works best with your lifestyle.Bilstein makes a quality product.
 

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As the old saying goes.... " you get what you pay for" I've personally had two sets of 5100's on two different Tundra's. BOTH broke. Have another new 2018, Looking for options. Truck has 25K miles on her now. Just ordered new Z36 Powerstop front rotors and Pads, for the OE's are Toast from pulling our Toyhauler RV ! Need to do front leveling shocks, AND rear. The rear shocks are pogo sticks now. Think I damaged the rears before adding the rear air bags. The 6112's are Spendy! The Eibach's maybe a good option for the price??? What about Fox, or Kings ?
 

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The eibachs are a relabeled 5100. If you think 6112s are spendy price a set of kings. Fox shocks are available for around the same price as 6112s.

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Breaks

As the old saying goes.... " you get what you pay for" I've personally had two sets of 5100's on two different Tundra's. BOTH broke. Have another new 2018, Looking for options. Truck has 25K miles on her now. Just ordered new Z36 Powerstop front rotors and Pads, for the OE's are Toast from pulling our Toyhauler RV ! Need to do front leveling shocks, AND rear. The rear shocks are pogo sticks now. Think I damaged the rears before adding the rear air bags. The 6112's are Spendy! The Eibach's maybe a good option for the price??? What about Fox, or Kings ?
What breaks on the 5100s, anyway? The snap ring height adjustment seems the most likely place to me, but you guys are talking about welds. How hard are they (the guys breaking them) pushing their vehicles offroad to break these? Pricing on the 6k series is just slap in the face outrageous.
 

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Just got the 5100s in yesterday, looking at the C-Clip and the perch that sits on top, how the eff is it supposed to hold up the Tundra? Esp if you jump it or slam the front end down coming down from a rock? I don't know if i want to install it now, does Bilstein offer any sort of warranty or pay for your truck if it breaks and your sitting on bump stops?
 

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Just got the 5100s in yesterday, looking at the C-Clip and the perch that sits on top, how the eff is it supposed to hold up the Tundra? Esp if you jump it or slam the front end down coming down from a rock? I don't know if i want to install it now, does Bilstein offer any sort of warranty or pay for your truck if it breaks and your sitting on bump stops?
The 5100's are not designed to handle what you just described above.
 

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Just got the 5100s in yesterday, looking at the C-Clip and the perch that sits on top, how the eff is it supposed to hold up the Tundra? Esp if you jump it or slam the front end down coming down from a rock? I don't know if i want to install it now, does Bilstein offer any sort of warranty or pay for your truck if it breaks and your sitting on bump stops?


No factory replacement strut will handle jumps well. You are looking at swapping in coil overs.

The 5100 and 6112 clip system is stronger than it looks but if you are going to beat up your truck off road, you need to step up to the real deal shocks.


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Not looking to purposely jump my Tundra but we have really bad roads here with dips that is equivalent to jump a vehicle, you'll bottom out. Will the 5100 survive a trip to Moab, which is what i'm building my tundra to do. Moab and colorado passes, not looking to do anything too crazy.
 

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If I was going to Moab, I would have real coilovers. Fox , King, or ADS not necessarily in that order. The lower level bilstein struts are not really designed for true offroading.

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I've seen stock Tundras, could be TRD pro doing Fins & Things which is probably about the hardest trail i'd ever do. This is going to be a cross country trip with mountain passes and slight offroading, not looking to do Hell's Gate or the Devil's Bathtub or anything.

So 5100s are not recommended for the things I want to do?
 

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With and Without, side by side

This is my blue 5100s and +3 CB only, next to a stocker -- both on stock wheels and tires. Often, people wait to do the lift until they have extra money for the wheels/tires too. I personally did this lift and then alignment first, and when my tires wear down some I'll decide between new wheels and bigger tires, (simply new but bigger tires) and keep doing upgrades step by step. When so many folks wonder what the lift looks like on stock wheels and tires, this might help them decide if it looks ok to them.
side by side.jpg
 
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