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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Clyde the Ride is in Dex's shop with the heads removed.

He just called and told me that the machine shop guy told him that mine was a unique engine, the only one with this valve configuration Toyota makes.
It uses shims and those shims cost $15 each and he has to adjust each valve separately, often more than once, each time installing the camshaft......

And that will take a month.
And we don't really know what we are getting with re-manufactured heads.
And....

He's looking for a used engine.

Phooey!
 
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What is the reason for the valve adjustment? These aren't that bad to do just a little time consuming. If you have everything available it can be easily done in a day and often doesn't require that all new shims are used as the old ones can be used in different positions.
 

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A month?!?!?! That's exactly what we do with sportbike motors, except we have to pull all of the plastics, usually drop the radiator, and usually move a motor mount or two just to get to the valve cover, and it takes us maybe 6-8 hours if we're being careful. Usually 16 valves, but still two camshafts.

Oh and as far as adjusting it more than once, if he has the old shims, feeler gauges, and can do some pretty basic math, he should only need to adjust them twice at most.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
250K+ miles and we decided on a valve job because the truck always used oil (originally more than a quart per 1,000 mi) and now leaks oil and water.
 

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So they thought the valve seals were leaking and they are checking clearances because they have it apart? Did you get a big puff of smoke on startup?

Just sayin, I don't see how a valve out of adjustment is going to cause oil consumption.
 
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I would find a new machine shop that is familiar with Toyota. They can be run through off the car with the cams on, it takes less than a day when you know what you are doing. The machine shop I use stocks all of the shims and it is simple math after that, measure clearance, measure the existing shim, calculate the thickness of the new shim.
 
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After a couple decades of drag racing my DSM and blowing up motors here and there I found out finding a good machine shop is tough. In all of Philly there was 1 and they screwed up my head. I was sent to north of the city and even that machine shop couldn't get it right. I had to go to NJ to find a decent one.
 
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Clyde the Ride is in Dex's shop with the heads removed.

He just called and told me that the machine shop guy told him that mine was a unique engine, the only one with this valve configuration Toyota makes./QUOTE]

Most Toyota engines use the shim, your engine is not the exception. Find out who the local dealer uses. There should still be enough machinists around that tackled the 3.0's when they had the campaign
 
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250K+ miles and we decided on a valve job because the truck always used oil (originally more than a quart per 1,000 mi) and now leaks oil and water.
Didn't you post about your truck using oil about 4 or 5 years ago? Has this been going on all this time? Not sure how many miles you had on it then, but I would have thought it would be a warranty issue?
I thought you were using Amsoil and having oil analysis?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You're right, I did post, but couldn't find it either. I suspect when I was 'moved' to Shatto's World, something may have slipped thru the cracks.

I ran the engine for almost two hours (15 min is recommended) with engine cleaner, the theory being to 'seat' rings, seals and anything else that might be leaking into the combustion chamber; then I ran break-in oil for 3, 4, 5 10,000 miles, I can't remember, then old fashioned 30 weight a while. then back to synthetic.

The reason I chose to tear down the engine, which was running fine but leaking oil and water outside, was that it was due for a timing belt replacement and it was, comparatively speaking, only a few dollars more to pull the heads.
Now we are looking for a used engine because it'll be cheaper and faster than rebuilding the original engine.

As to the warranty, Toyota covered themselves with the warranty that said four quarts of oil consumption per thousand miles was within specifications.

Meanwhile Dex's Tundra, the reason I bought mine, chugs along, using nary a drop of oil.
 

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You may want to look into a Jasper, a bit more $ than a used engine but has a great warranty
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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You're right, I did post, but couldn't find it either. I suspect when I was 'moved' to Shatto's World, something may have slipped thru the cracks.

I ran the engine for almost two hours (15 min is recommended) with engine cleaner, the theory being to 'seat' rings, seals and anything else that might be leaking into the combustion chamber; then I ran break-in oil for 3, 4, 5 10,000 miles, I can't remember, then old fashioned 30 weight a while. then back to synthetic.

The reason I chose to tear down the engine, which was running fine but leaking oil and water outside, was that it was due for a timing belt replacement and it was, comparatively speaking, only a few dollars more to pull the heads.
Now we are looking for a used engine because it'll be cheaper and faster than rebuilding the original engine.

As to the warranty, Toyota covered themselves with the warranty that said four quarts of oil consumption per thousand miles was within specifications.

Meanwhile Dex's Tundra, the reason I bought mine, chugs along, using nary a drop of oil.
Im guessing you got a 4.7. I've rebuilt 1 when it dropped a valve and you can shim all 32 valves in a few hours it is not hard at all. I probably still have a few shims in the tool box. Basically measure each valve to see what shim you need if you even need one and order them pretty easy. Out of 32 valves only a few needed to be adjusted. If you are using a lot of oil i would change the piston rings and hone the cylinder while its all apart.
 

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Yea, it's only like doing 2 modern cycle engines...

from looking at the pics, your engine seems in decent shape for the mileage... If you buy a used engine, who knows what you are getting... It is pretty simple to do shim bucket style valve lash, just use a calculator.

If stoner kids in vocational school can figure it out on a yz450 dirtbike, I am pretty sure a good competent tech can figure it out on your engine... Just saying.
 
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If stoner kids in vocational school can figure it out on a yz450 dirtbike, I am pretty sure a good competent tech can figure it out on your engine... Just saying.
You have absolutely no idea how true this is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
https://plus.google.com/photos/1181...13467319889?banner=pwa&authkey=CI6q5_SihLOIeQ
Should get you the pictures of the tear down.

and, Friday:
https://plus.google.com/photos/1181...11867437937?banner=pwa&authkey=CJOz-dOVtaLBTw
(the two prior to the camshaft are the old block)

From the crud on the frame, you can see the problem; a serious oil and water leak, traced to the head gasket and that was the culmination of problems
that began with consuming around a quart of oil per 1,000 miles for a long time, a problem not covered under warranty because it was within specs.
So, although the truck had recently passed smog and ran fine, the timing was right to see what the trouble was since the timing belt job was due anyway.
 
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