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Discussion Starter #1
I have been thumbing through previous complaints about the factory controllers and the updates on the 2016-2017 trucks but my issue doesn't seem to fall in line with the other complaints. I've been towing my camper with an Audi Q7 with a Draw Tite Controller, works great super smooth, no complaints. Connected the same camper to my Tundra and no matter how I set the gain, it FEELS like its turned all the way up on the highest setting. It engages fast and hard. Very jerky and if I need to slow down and let off the brakes and tap them again like in traffic, it makes my dog barf in the car its so freakin' jerky. Literally, if driving on a gravel road at maybe 15 mph and braked, guaranteed my camper would SKID. I have to switch over to the other mode to basically turn off the brakes when in traffic so I don't get whiplash. Has any one else seen this? Not sure if the software flash would correct this or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also curious if its ok to turn on Tow/Haul mode while the truck is in gear and moving, or should it be in park? I often forget to turn it on and been coming to a stop to turn it on but wondering if that is necessary?
 

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Also curious if its ok to turn on Tow/Haul mode while the truck is in gear and moving, or should it be in park? I often forget to turn it on and been coming to a stop to turn it on but wondering if that is necessary?
So it sounds like you have the controller set to electric over hydraulic, it needs to be set to electric only.

And you can have the tow haul set or not set at any time. It changes the shift and throttle mapping and won't hurt anything to change it whenever you want.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have tried every possible combination with this controller. One mode, which I'm sure is the Electric only, is the hyper sensitive setting and gain makes no difference. The hydraulic setting is the setting I put it in because there feels like no braking at all behind me, so I put it in that setting in traffic so it isn't jerking really bad. In that mode, the gain does nothing either. Basically nothing all around. I will double check on Friday it is electric only mode that is so jerky. It is almost like the gain is not adjustable, like 10 is the only setting even though the numbers adjust, braking does not change.
 

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Mine is jerky like that on hydraulic over electric. Double check that. Otherwise you might have a bad controller. The tow haul button won't have any effect on it as far as I know.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As much as I've been flipping around trying all scenarios, very likely I have these backwards then. If that is true, then there is no noticeable braking going on. Therefore, my issues would line up with what everyone else said. Very little braking and the software fix will fix this. I will update this Friday when I pull the camper in for maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so electric setting does absolutely nothing. Electric over hydraulic is the jerky one. Whiplash skidding setting on 10. Still very jerky on .5. Nothing with Electric, all braking from the truck and feels dangerous.
 

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Try activating the controller manually when in electric mode.... You should be able to feel if it's working at all...

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Sounds like the software update could fix your issue then. Mine is Aug 17 build so they said it was up to date. I'm still not sure if mines working properly yet however. I just got new brakes on my trailer and need them to set in... Hopefully I'll be good after that. If not I'll be pulling my controller out and putting my p3 from my previous vehicle in.

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Discussion Starter #13
I hope it does. It may be 2 or 3 weeks before I can get it in to them. But will post updates. I have a decent controller in my Q7 but like having that vehicle to tow with as well since it is diesel. So its staying in there. I was looking at this today at the camper place. I will go with that before installing another controller I think. This would be perfect because I really need an extra couple of inches and this would act as an extension too.


 

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That looks good... Take a look at the reviews for the teconsha P3. that's what I have as my backup.... I had great luck with it in my suburban.

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Your truck falls perfectly in line with the complaints, as evidenced in this thread. Go get the brake controller update and it will be much better. If not get the P3, everyone says it is the best and why risk your safety on a cheap deal?

I drove around a parking lot at slow speed to test the brakes, using manual mode to make sure they were operating correctly and not sticking. If manual mode doesn’t stop the truck and trailer together at slow speeds <10mph or so you something is probably wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I definitely dont go the cheap route, ever. And compromising safety is laughable. Im one to spend the extra $ on the best option out there, because you get what you pay for. Not sure where you got the idea I was trying to find a cheap route out? $200 for the controller and paying someone to disconnect my existing wiring so this will work-cheaper to get a regular controller, but the benefit of an slight extension is a bonus. Doesn't seem cheapo to me. More like I'm spending more $ to accommodate all my needs. The above is more expensive than any controller I've had installed in 3 different vehicles. I've heard good things about the link above so far. Being a 6ft tall female with long legs, I hate hitting my knee on a controller under the dash. Happens all the time. That's why I was excited to have an integrated controller in the Tundra which is proving to be sub par unfortunately. I plan on pulling this camper to Colorado this summer with this truck, so I'm trying to get this all sorted out now so that I have safe travels. Thanks for all the input! Much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
The P3 sounds great, but when the only person in the area doesn't sell those and doesnt install them, and I dont know how to do that myself, then P3 isnt happening. Drawtite works great in my Q7 so I have no problem getting another one of those. Maybe they sell P3s now, but didn't a year ago.
 

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I definitely dont go the cheap route, ever. And compromising safety is laughable. Im one to spend the extra $ on the best option out there, because you get what you pay for. Not sure where you got the idea I was trying to find a cheap route out? $200 for the controller and paying someone to disconnect my existing wiring so this will work-cheaper to get a regular controller, but the benefit of an slight extension is a bonus. Doesn't seem cheapo to me. More like I'm spending more $ to accommodate all my needs. The above is more expensive than any controller I've had installed in 3 different vehicles. I've heard good things about the link above so far. Being a 6ft tall female with long legs, I hate hitting my knee on a controller under the dash. Happens all the time. That's why I was excited to have an integrated controller in the Tundra which is proving to be sub par unfortunately. I plan on pulling this camper to Colorado this summer with this truck, so I'm trying to get this all sorted out now so that I have safe travels. Thanks for all the input! Much appreciated!
I saw your post about the Curt option and misunderstood; thought you had “found a deal” so to speak.
The update changed my brake controller from scary worthless to functional, I don’t see why it would be different with your truck. Good luck! I’ve towed a travel trailer at least a couple thousand miles since the update with zero issue.
 
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