Hey Scott,
I was hoping you would have gotten some kinda feedback from others. I will likely end up getting the Bilstein 5100's myself for the front only, while leaving the back stock on my 2014 Tundra CM TRD. I was wondering if you could provide me with any feedback since installing your 5100's. My biggest question yet, is deciding on middle setting or top setting. I am only interested in leveling the front. Do you have pics of your new ride height. Thanks

 

Hey Nachserv, Yeah, I was hoping the same, but I went and braved it on my own. I told the shop to level my truck, they said they would measure everything out and put it on the correct setting which was the top setting. I absolutely love the ride. Much, much better ride than stock. I don't think it is stiff at all.

Sadly, I haven't had a chance to take photos yet since we had a snow storm that night and it was dirty as hell until tonight. BUT, I love the stance. It is dead level, so much so, that it almost looks lower in back but I measured and they were even. (don't ask what the height was...I don't remember now). The only thing that surprised me is that I had to go to Toyota and have the VSC/Zero Point Calibration done because my truck seemed really sluggish. It felt like it was really heavy and struggled to get up to speed.

All in all, I love the Bilsteins. Many will tell you to go with EMU or Icons, but my truck is for the most part a street queen with minimal off road, so the Bilsteins are more than I need.

Hit me up if you have more questions. I'll try to get some photos tomorrow before the rain.

 

I have the 2014 SR5 CM, non TRD. And went with 5100s on all 4 corners.

I am really happy with the ride quality. The 5100s along with the TRD swaybar was a major improvement on the stock ride.

I went with the middle setting, and now am kinda wishing I had just put it all the way to the top. But I'm not sure I want to take it in and have them re-do it which also probly includes another alignment.

Here is a picture after the install. It is a bit decieving because the parking lot slopes down toward the back.

 

Hey Scott
I appreciate the response. After researching Bilstein's for a while now, your pickup and setup seemed closest to mine. As mentioned my only question was whether I would go top or middle setting. I bought some TSS factory 20" wheels and had Michelin 275/60-20's installed. I thought they would fill up the wheel wells more than did. I've seen some lifted Tundra's that make the stock wheels look even smaller than they are and that was partly my concern with the top setting. But based on people's liking for the top setting, I think my mind is set on the top setting In regards to the Toyota calibration, is this service done along with an alignment? I had the alignment factored into my budget but Ive never heard of the Toyota calibration.

 

I don't think my truck looks bad with the TSS wheels and tires. When I replace, I'm probably going to go a little taller tire.

Toyota looked at me crazy when I asked them to do the VSC/ZPC on my truck. They said it was a system for the air bags, but did it anyway. It cost $105 for the service. It made a huge difference. You can always do it yourself.http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/569842-post30.html

 

How about ride quality fellas? Would you say it's a good "firm"? It to the point that it feels like it's hard hitting and rough feeling? I would like to put mine on the top setting if it helps with body roll caused by a higher CG, and makes the ride a good kind of firm. I'm not particularly looking for a "floaty" ride or anything, I think if rather it feel tight but to the point where it still performs solid, even with the extra preload.

Please share your thoughts!

 

I'd say firm but not rough. Much stiffer then the stock SR5 shocks, but better dampening so they don't bounce and wallow as much.

5100s plus the TRD Swaybar improved the stock ride immensely.

 

Xtreem85, I agree with Iambone. 5100s plus the TRD swaybar are great. I don't really notice a difference between stock height with the swaybar, and Bilsteins and the swaybar. The ride is controlled, solid ride. You won't be disappointed with the Bilsteins on top setting.

 

That's great, thanks guys. I appreciate it. Ordering my 2015 in the new year. Can't wait. Just waiting to get more info on the supercharger!

Thanks again!

 

Hey Guys
I finally had the Bilstein 5100's installed on my truck, fronts only. I kept the "factory" TRD Bilsteins on the back. I got just over 2" of lift from the new shocks at the top setting, which leveled the truck as advertised. Here are some before and after pics.

 

So what size tires are they?

Also, now I'm a little concerned, I have a set of new style 5100's in my garage ready to go on the new truck and they claim a 2.75" lift on top setting. But you only got 2". My goal is to achieve 3" without getting a spacer kit. As it is I have ordered two 1/4" Shims from coachbuilder which claim to give a 1/2" lift per shim when installed. But my original plan with those shims was to install them with the bilsteins on middle setting to get 2.75" of lift, which would be close enough for me.

 

I have Michelin 275/60-20's on the truck. If I had a do over, I would have purchased 275/65-20's to fill in the wheel wells a little bit more. Its basically a highway truck so I wasn't looking for anything to aggressive to begin with. To be exact, I think I got about 2 1/8 to 2 1/4 inch lift from the shocks on the top setting with no other mods.

 

Here are the before and after pics of the measurements from the floor to the center of the wheel wheel.

 

Thank you sir. I appreciate those pics and the extra info.

So how did you find the ride now? I know it'll be stiffer like everyone says but how would you describe it yourself? Have you hit any rough road with it this far? I just don't want he ride to be so firm that I'd complain air so that it shakes the crap out of me going over crappy roads.

Thoughts?

 

I'm installing the 5100's on my 2015 CM also, Do you guys think I could run 285/65R20's or 295/60R20's?
Or would they be too big, I don't want to remove or cut anything. I also don't want to take a big hit in MPG's.

 

I installing the 5100's on my 2015 CM also, Do you guys think I could run 285/65R20's or 295/60R20's?
Or would they be too big, I don't want to remove or cut anything. I also don't want to take a big hit in MPG's.

I think quite a few guys on here run that tall of a tire with the spacer lifts. I have 285 55r 20s on my truck and get a little rubbing at full turn. So you would probably have to cut/bend your skid plate. There is probably a thread out there discussing exactly that question.

 

Haven't hit any rough terrain yet. Some of the rodes here in AZ are rough enough and I have no complaints about the new setup. A little stiffer shocks but not by much really. No complaints so far.

 

I am running 295/60/20 on my 2015 tundra with bilsteins on the highest setting. I had to remove a little on my front skid plate and remove the little mud flips in front of the wheels.

 

Are the TRD shocks not Bilstein 5100's?

And does it matter if the truck is a DC or CM? I was looking at a level kit for my 14 DC but am leaning more towards just new shocks now.

 

No, the TRD are factory Bilsten struts and are not the same as the Bilsten 5100 which are adjustable.

 

On my crewmax I put my 5100 to top setting back in 08, It will settle.
RAKE of 3/4 of an inch last I measured but looks dead level. On a driveway it may even APPEAR to be nose up but it isn't. Stiffer by 10-15% more compared to middle setting from asking before I installed. Don't forget to adjust your lights down, or you will get high beamed from on coming traffic like I did.

 

Since I have done some more reading I am back in here to ask a few more questions.

I was initially looking at doing a level kit but since my 14' DC is not a TRD I think the Bilstein 5100's are a better deal for me. Currently I have 285/55/20 BFG AT's with 30mm offset wheels and 1.5" wheel adapters installed because I have fender flares. After installing the wheel adapter the tires rubbed the little mud flap in front of the tire bad when backing up so I removed it. Now they still seem to be rubbing the inside of the front fender slightly when is reverse. I am assuming lifting the front ~2" with the 5100's will fix this problem. I also plan on trimming the edges of the skid plate just for good measure.

My questions are is it worth it to do the 5100's all the way around or just in the front?
Are the 5100's in the front ok alone or do I need to add anything else in the front such as spacers?
What is the zero point recalibration I read about on the 1st page of this thread?
And what benefits would I get from installing the rear sway bar?
How hard are the 5100's to install?

My truck will see some minimal off road action but not enough to warrant a really expensive set of shocks so I'm fine with just getting the 5100's.

I appreciate any advice in advance!

 

Merry Christmas, I don't know if the 5100s will help with your rubbing issues, but I believe they do pull your wheels in a tad bit, so it might help.

I don't have a TRD either and I put the 5100s all the way around and it improved the ride over factory. Its just a little more for the rears, so why not?

Putting your front 5100s on the top setting, will make you dead level, well, I am 1/2 inch taller in the back, but I think it looks a little rear low. I'm eventually going to put the Coachbuilder shackles on to raise the rear a little more.

The zero point calibration- I was told by Toyota that it had to deal with the airbag system, but when I lifted the front to level, my truck felt sluggish like the brakes were dragging. Toyota did the ZPC and the truck felt normal again. There is a thread that tells you how to do it yourself, but I'm not confident enough in my abilities to not blow my truck up.

Rear swaybar- It makes your truck corner almost like a car. You don't get all the body roll that stock suspension give you. If you offroad a lot, it might not be worth the loss of mobility in your suspension. I love my swaybar. I think hands down most would say that is the best mod you can do to your Tundra.

I, like you don't take my truck off road enough to warrant Kings, Icons, etc. It is a road queen that i wanted to make a little more capable for mild trails, railroad tracks, ect. If you have the money and like to show off your equipment, then go for it. I love my Bilstein 5100s and Im glad I spent the money to get them.

I hope that helped.
Scott

 

Yes that surely helped. I will just go 5100's all the way around then. I just found it interesting that I had no rubbing before the adapters but the stance is so much better there is no way I am taking them off! I'm going to trim the skid plate a hair and look into the minor rubbing a little more. I am thinking with the 5100's in the front that small amount of lift will fix the rubbing as it is only very minor now with the mud flap removed and only in reverse.

I will look into the sway bar but I want the 5100's first. I told my wife when I bought this truck I didn't need to get anything for it (since I got the XSP-X package) but have already ordered lots of small stuff and have a Magnaflow muffler coming in this week so I can swing the 5100's but not a sway bar at the same time.

 

I highly suggest you canx the Magnaflow and save your pennies for a BAM budget system. You won't regret it. Get the sway bar now. I'm not typically a band wagon person, but the BAM is awesome and worth waiting for.

 

You may get a body mount rub from what I have read.. With the spacers you are negative offset. Factory is plus 50-60 from what I have read.. Depends on tires.. Maybe OK looks like your tires are smaller.

 

Never really thought of it like that but with a 1.5" adapter it does change it from a +30 to a -8 offset. Just seems strange to get rubbing when you move the wheel away from the truck but I'm sure it is due to the contour of the inner fender. I'm busy the next few days but plan on looking into it a little closer on Monday.

 

Not sure where to put this so I guess here is as good as any. Well my truck finally came in on 12/27. 2015 Platinum CM Attitude Black. I had the factory install the TRD Dual Exhaust, TRD Rear Sway Bar, and Remote Start. Tomorrow I'm bringing it in to get some things done.
1) Bilstein 5100 RHA in the front top setting with one Coachbuilder 1/4" Shim
2) Bilstein 5100's in the rear
3) Toytec Front Differential Drop Spacers.
4)Coachbuilder +2 Rear Shackles with Poly bushings.
5) Carrier Bearing Drop spacers
6) Front Alignment

Also going to get an ARE Z series Cap with the Yakima Whispbars and Bedrug.

My goal is to raise the front like 2 3/4" and the rear around 1". so it will be raised but still have a little rake. I might keep the stock Platinum Wheels but want to change the tires to something like Toyo Open Country AT 2 295/60 R20.
I just dropped off all my parts to the shop that is doing the work.
The owner asked me "Do you have alignment specs ?"
BAAAA WAAAAAA, LOL I didn't know what to tell him.
Any help would be appreciated. Do you guys think those tires will fit with no rubbing or cutting? Also I'm kind of worried about going from a tire that weighs 41 LBS to a tire that weighs 62 LBS. Thoughts?

 

Not sure where to put this so I guess here is as good as any. Well my truck finally came in on 12/27. 2015 Platinum CM Attitude Black. I had the factory install the TRD Dual Exhaust, TRD Rear Sway Bar, and Remote Start. Tomorrow I'm bringing it in to get some things done.
1) Bilstein 5100 RHA in the front top setting with one Coachbuilder 1/4" Shim
2) Bilstein 5100's in the rear
3) Toytec Front Differential Drop Spacers.
4)Coachbuilder +2 Rear Shackles with Poly bushings.
5) Carrier Bearing Drop spacers
6) Front Alignment

pleease post pics! looking to do the exact setup you have on my new 2015!

 

So I got the muffler installed this AM and stopped by a local shop to ask them how much they would charge to install the 5100's. The guy looked under my truck and said I have struts in the front and shocks in the back and it would be a pretty big job. Apparently I need to check elsewhere. LOL

 

Please do yourself a favor and DO LOOK ELSEWHERE. Just for reference I paid $300 to install UCA, 5100, CB Carrier Drop Kit and CB shackles today.

 

Almost the same setup I got. Beside CB +3 shackles and two CB shims on each side for an extra inch of lift.

http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...sion-talk/400897-bilstein-5100-top-setting-1-coachbuilder-shim.html#post4995073

 

do you have before pics?

 

I will post pics of my adventure after two things happen. First I have to finish at least everything up to the Cap. Today the 5100's were installed with all the drops and Coachbuilder shims. Holy smokes.... What a difference... And second I learn how to upload pics to this site. I'm sure all I have to do is do it once. Right now I'm having second thoughts about using the stock Platinum Wheels. I don't want to get to this point and cheap out. So I'm thinking new wheels. Fuel Mavericks or Kranks. Not sure about Chrome or Black. I was also at the Tire Shop today and He's telling me the way to go is Goodyear Duratracs 285/60R20 or BFGoodrich TA KO2's 275/60R20. I like the BFG's but think that size might be a bit small. Probably Going with Mavericks /Duratracs. Are the Duratracs very noisy and will my mpg's go way down with them?

 

Just installed set to max. Both sides are 39.75" ground to fender on my 285/70/17.

What are others getting?

 

Do you have to do the diff drop with the 5100 set on the top setting? The shop here which I don't hold in real high regards said that a spacer kit is better for what I wanted since the shocks are new ( agh no) but you also have to do the diff drop.
Thanks

 

I didn't do the dif drop on mine and my Bilsteins are set at the top setting. No problems with alignment, binding, ect. I think Bilstein even talks about that on their site.