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I hit my remote starter and my starter just kept running and truck wouldnt crank. After 7-8 sec of not cranking it stopped and it tried again. It spun for another 4 or 5 seconds busted off then died. I hit the remote start again and after about 4 seconds of trying to crank it finally did. Never had this happen before on this truck, my girlfriends old Pontiac g6 use to do the same thing regularly but never did find out what that cars issue was. My truck didn't throw any lights does anyone have any ideas? It starts fine now but would rather this not happen again.
 

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Just called the local dealer and told him what happened. He said its hard to tell since it didnt throw a light, but to him he said it sounds like the fuel system lost pressure he said possibly an injector leaking. Anyone have any experience with this?
 

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I don't have remote start on my 2014. Just got rid of a 2005 doublecab; on a few occasions, when I attempted to start it, it would sputter or not start. But on the next try, it would start just fine. When the truck was new, there was a warning tag inside the truck that stated "3-4hrs after the truck is off, a noise may be heard which is the fuel system checking for leaks, etc". Not sure if the truck would be hard to start at the exact time the system is doing a fuel system check. And having said that, I'm not sure if the 3rd generation Tundra's do this same type of fuel system check.
 

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Next time that happens... go outside and try to start with the key. I bet it starts right up and that the remote start install is suspect, specifically the wiring or unit for immobilizer bypass. Even more so, you can sit in the truck when it won't remote start.... put the key in the ignition but don't turn it, leave it in the off position. Remote start the truck and I bet it fires right up. For sure sounds like a bad immobilizer install (which would turn off the fuel pump).
 

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Iv had the remote start in for about 2 weeks or more and have used it every day and never had an issue with it. Also the shop that installed it has high feedback and was recommended for the aftermarket system by the toyota dealer. Not saying your theory isnt accurate I just don't think thats the culprit. I forgot to mention my last stop last night before coming home was filling up my truck at the gas station. I know my gascap was put on tight but I loosened and re tightened it.
 

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My old Ridgeline would do the same thing with an aftermarket starter. I seemed to do it mostly when it parked for several hour in the cold. Traded it in on 14 CM before I figured out what was wrong with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The past few weeks the mornings have been as low as 30 degrees and this morning was the warmest we've had in a month in the 70s.
 

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Iv had the remote start in for about 2 weeks or more and have used it every day and never had an issue with it. Also the shop that installed it has high feedback and was recommended for the aftermarket system by the toyota dealer. Not saying your theory isnt accurate I just don't think thats the culprit. I forgot to mention my last stop last night before coming home was filling up my truck at the gas station. I know my gascap was put on tight but I loosened and re tightened it.
Well testing as I suggested will tell you for sure. I bet it will start.

It is cranking for a while because that is how long that remote start is programmed to crank before detecting tach or voltage increase readings. I would bet anything on the immobilizer. Just because they are a recommended shop, does not mean that a wire isn't loose connection wise. Or that the immobilizer itself may be temperamental or need to be reprogrammed from the chip in your key. My guess is that they used junk wire taps and you are getting an intermittent immobilizer signal to the ignition.

Edit, the Tundra cranks itself with a bump of the key. The more I think about it, the more I KNOW it is the immobilizer bypass not doing its job as it should be all of the time. You would get the same crank with no fire result with a copied key without a chip, or hot-wiring the truck (which is all the remote starter actually does).


quick google search for you, check out these threads... make of vehicle does not matter.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2480497

http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=92117
 

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Blackgts Im not doubting you but from what youve replied with and the threads you posted isnt completely what im having happen here. They continuously are having the problem. I only had that problem this morning during first crank, iv since then started my truck 6 times by remote start without an issue. Does it still sound like your diagnosis?
 

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Blackgts Im not doubting you but from what youve replied with and the threads you posted isnt completely what im having happen here. They continuously are having the problem. I only had that problem this morning during first crank, iv since then started my truck 6 times by remote start without an issue. Does it still sound like your diagnosis?
Yes, when it happens you need to try what blackgts said. The immobilizer does simply that, wont allow let it start when the right parameters arent met. Its going to be with the DBALL or whatever they used. Intermittent issues like you are having are almost always electrical. So when it happens, putting the key in the ignition while this is happening will prove the "DBALL" is where the problem is.. It may have been starting fine the last few times, but I can almost guarantee it will happen again..
 

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Just got off the phone with the shop that installed it, the guy who did the install said the same thing you guys did. He said I need to catch it doing it and see if the theft light is staying on or try putting the key in. He said if ot does it again to bring it and he sill reprogram it and we can go from there.

Was hoping it wasn't the actual truck itself being brand new so I do hope its a simple fix.
 

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Yea, the theft light will display because the idatalink is not doing its job.. If thats on when you catch it not starting, and when you insert your key and the light goes off and truck starts.. Its either a faulty idatalink, programming is wrong or corrupt, or a loose wire..

Good luck!
 

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Thanks alot. Biggest thing is catching it in the act! The whole point for remote start was so I could let it warm up while getting ready for work at 6am which im always inside and can barely hear it cranking until it actually starts up. Ill try and keep a close eye on it for the next few morning cranks though.
 

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Remote starts a suspect. No matter who puts it on, or sells it. Toyota puts them on and they fail. I will never put one on again. I go outside, start the truck, then go back out 5 minutes later. Truck starts everytime.

I tried several different brands, and installers. Take it off!!
 

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I would just ask the shop to check the wiring on the bypass. You could do it yourself if you want, the connection guide is on idatalink's website, but I would think they would check for free based on your complaints. Just tell them you caught it and with the key in the ignition it did start.
 

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Remote starts a suspect. No matter who puts it on, or sells it. Toyota puts them on and they fail. I will never put one on again. I go outside, start the truck, then go back out 5 minutes later. Truck starts everytime.

I tried several different brands, and installers. Take it off!!
That's why I do it myself and don't use stupid quick taps like shops do. Never had a problem with any of mine or any I've installed for people. Of course not everyone is comfortable installing one, but it's not the product when they fail, it is the install(er).
 

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Blackgts Im not doubting you but from what youve replied with and the threads you posted isnt completely what im having happen here. They continuously are having the problem. I only had that problem this morning during first crank, iv since then started my truck 6 times by remote start without an issue. Does it still sound like your diagnosis?
Sounds like a bad connection to me. Temperamental quick connect most likely. I hope the shop makes it right for you. If you can, ask how they make their connections. I bet they use some type of quick connect/vampire tap vs stripping, wrapping and taping/ soldering tape.
 

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That's why I do it myself and don't use stupid quick taps like shops do. Never had a problem with any of mine or any I've installed for people. Of course not everyone is comfortable installing one, but it's not the product when they fail, it is the install(er).
90% of the time THIS^^^



I have had remote starts on the last 4 of my vehicles, only issue was tach input wasn't right on my FJ, then the LHS the tach input wire corroded off (was installed in 2000, this happened in 2010... My truck now the only issue is it's oem and you the truck shuts off then you have to restart it, doesn't have brake take-over.

WHEN it is a quality product AND installed correctly you shouldn't have issues.

Totally sounds like no fuel pressure, bypass not working correctly.
 
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