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Any of you wiring gurus know how I can wire my existing puddle lights from a 16 platinum to come on with headlights on? Instead of just the 10 seconds after hitting unlock. I have these aftermarket puddle lights installed that project "Toyota Tundra" on the ground (eBay) and would like them on all the time the headlights are on. If I took the puddle light (+) from pin 6 and T tapped that into the running light (+) from pin 9, would that work? Thanks
 

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Hi All,
Thanks to everyone for a great write-up. I have a 2016 SR5 TRD with BSM, Heat. I purchased a set of 2014 OEM Platinum mirrors with all the bells and whistles (Including BSM). When I plugged them up, the adjustment works, the turn signal works, the heat works but I get the "Check Blind Spot Monitor, See Dealer" code on my dash. Also the BSM light does not light up on the mirror like it normal does when I turn the key on. Both my original and new mirrors have BSM. Any Suggestions?
Thanks
 

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Thank you for this very helpful. Does your truck have BSM? Mines does so wondering if I can still proceed with these instructions. I have a 2017 Limited without memory.
 

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Thank you for this very helpful. Does your truck have BSM? Mines does so wondering if I can still proceed with these instructions. I have a 2017 Limited without memory.
No BSM here. I think you can still use these instructions but I cannot confirm 100%.
 

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2020 Toyota Tundra Crew Max SR5
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Any idea if this write-up will work on a ‘20 SR5?
 

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2020 Toyota Tundra Crew Max SR5
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Looks like its me..!
 

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This past weekend/week I was able to wrap up my install of the Platinum power fold mirrors on my 2014 DC SR5. There was quite a bit involved in getting these things all wired and getting the mirrors all set to go, so here’s my install/wiring with some pictures to help. I used the mirrors that are fully loaded with Puddle Lights/Signal Lights/Auto-Dim/Heat/Power Fold. I also swapped LEDs into the puddle lights while I was at it.

I contacted a few members who I saw had them, and finally found a set from @bhertz82. One of them was damaged in transit, so I had to find a replacement mounting triangle for the mirrors. I was able to purchase a whole mirror and disassemble in order to swap the parts. Here is what I had once everything was disassembled (minus the outer body parts of the mirrors)



Once I had the mirrors, I had to find a switch that included the power fold button. What I found is that there are two types of switches in the new trucks. The first (what I have) is a 10 pin connector switch that looks like the following from the back (switch and connector):





There is also an 8 pin switch which is for the higher level trucks that have an Outer Mirror Control ECU in the door (I believe Limited+ models have this). I wasn’t about to spend another $100+ on a switch, so I found one (from Taiwan, I know) on Ebay for $35, as seen here: Power Fold Mirror Switch from eBay The new switch looks like this from the back and also installed:





After doing a bunch of research on the wiring diagram, I was able to put together the wiring for the mirrors and figure out how many pins/wires I’d need to install all of the necessary functions. Here is the layout of the wires for the 2014 DC SR5:

Pin 1: Heat +
Pin 2: Heat –
Pin 3: Signal – (Running Light -)
Pin 4: Signal +
Pin 5: Puddle Lamp – (Already wired as common ground, needs rewire to make puddle lamps work)
Pin 6: Puddle Lamp +
Pin 7: Mirror Retract (+)
Pin 8: Mirror Fold (–)
Pin 9: Running Light +
Pin 10: Mirror Vert (power)
Pin 11: Mirror +
Pin 12: Mirror Horiz (power)
Pin 13: Auto-Dim –
Pin 14: Auto-Dim +
Pin 15-18: Memory Pins .. since I don’t have this, I didn’t research the actual pins, just know that these 4 are reserved for that.

This brought me to the need of pins for the mirror plug in the door, pins for the power fold on the back of the mirror switch, and pins for the auto dim connector, and also some wire. I sourced those all out on digikey.com. You’ll need the following for this install (I’d by a few extra just in case you mess up):

14 - TE Connectivity 1123343-1 (Mirror pins and auto-dim)
2 – TE Connectivity 175265-1 (Mirror switch pins)
1 - E1006S-50-ND (6-conductor/22AWG wire, 50’)

Not on the 1123343-1 pins .. there is a small portion of them that has to be clipped off for them to work in the connectors in the truck, it is the small extrusion from the rest of the pin as seen at the top of the pin in this pic:



Now that I had the switch, pins and mirrors all ready to go, I started the install. First thing I did, obviously, was to install the mirrors on the truck. There are several YouTube videos on this, so I’m not really going to get into that part of the install.

I found that my plug going into the mirror had 10 wires going into it, but I still had to run the wires for the power fold, puddle lamps, and auto-dim. These worked out to be pins 5/6 (puddle), 8/9 (fold), and 13/14 (auto-dim). So I took the 6-conductor wire, stripped about 3/8” off the end, and crimped the pins on each of the 6 wires. I then took the mirror plug, popped up the small wire hold on the top of the plug to allow me to insert the new pins, and then proceeded to insert the necessary pins in the proper plug locations. Since pin 5 was already occupied by a common ground wire, and it wasn’t going to be used here, I swapped it with my pin as it is necessary to get the puddle lamps to work right. A picture of the new wires plugged into the connector (top row has black/brown on 4th/5th pins (auto-dim), bottom row has green/white/red/blue in pins 5/6 (puddle) and 7/8 (fold) :



I then routed that 6-conductor wire through the door and into the cab through the large rubber grommet between the door/body for both the passenger/driver doors. The wire on the passenger side was routed behind the glove box and radio (was easiest to remove the glove box and use a wire fish to get behind the power outlet panel) and over the driver’s side to behind the mirror switch, along with the driver’s side wire. You’ll also need to remove the trim panel that below the steering wheel for access to all of this.

Once those wires were run, the blue/red wires needed to be connected and joined to pins in order to plug into the mirror switch. I used the 2 pins outlined above and crimped them onto the red/blue wires and plugged them into the mirror switch as shown below. Again, there is a small plastic portion of the plug that needs to be lifted in order to insert the pins. The pins I used are not a perfect match, so a small portion of the plastic piece on the plug that holds the pins in needed to be trimmed with a razor blade to allow it to be inserted back onto the plug. Here is the plug with the new wires inserted:



In order for the puddle lights to work, the green/white wires had to be spliced into the foot well light that is at the bottom of the driver’s side dash. The white wire taps into the blue footwell light wire, and the green wire taps into the beige wire. This allows the puddle lights to come on when the footwell light does along with the fade in/out of those lights.

Lastly, wires need to be tapped in for the auto-dim to work. There is a connect behind the left side A-pillar trim, which is easily accessed. If you’ve had the A-pillar off to change out for the Oh-$hit handle, then you know how to remove, otherwise the small trim panel that says “SRS Airbag” on it can be pried up to reveal a bolt behind it. Remove and then remove the trim panel as well. Down towards the dash, unplug the two connectors. I found that the auto-dim wires enter the connect from the headliner, but the mating connector that you unplug doesn’t have these mating wires. This makes it simpler as all you need to do is add two pins (the same pins as the outer mirror plugs). Those go into pins 4 (brown wire wire below and one pin over from green wire) and 13 (black wire next to white/black striper wire) of the connector. Same thing here, pry up the small plastic portion of the connector to allow pin insertion, put the pins in, click the plastic back down, done. The next picture shows the auto-dim wires inserted into the plug:



Plug the connector back in, reinstall the A-pillar trim, double check your wiring, and make sure everything works. I checked mine to make sure power fold worked, then heat, then signals, then mirror adjust, puddle lights, and auto-dim. To check auto-dim, get a flashlight. Cover the small panel on the back side of the auto-dim inner mirror with either black tape or your finger, and shine the flashlight on the front of the mirror (small light looking portion on bottom of mirror). This will trigger the auto-dim and that should send signal to the outer mirrors to dim as well. This all worked for me.

The only issues I ran into is I assumed that I could use the common ground on pin 5 for the puddle lights. This doesn’t work as it just makes a circuit to ground and the puddle lights stay on all the time. I ran that extra wire for the puddle lights in the 6-conductor wire and was able to just use that and tap to the other side of the footwell light. I don’t have any close-up pictures of the finished product, but they don’t look any different than the stock mirrors except now having puddle lights and signal lenses, but regardless, here is the most recent picture of my truck with them installed.
I'm planning to color match the mirror caps when it warms up to complete this mod.



This is what I found on my SR5. I think that the Limited may be a straight swap due to the Outer Mirror ECU being present on that model, but I’m not 100% sure. You may still need to run some wires. Regardless, this was what I needed to do for my SR5 and am very happy with the finished product. I’ll possibly grab a video of everything working later today or this weekend. If anyone has any questions or needs any further information, let me know!
For the red and Blue wires you connected on the back of the switch where did those wires go?
Did they went on each side of the plug that is connected on the mirrors? Is one of those wires + and -? Thanks for your help.
 
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