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Now onto the power fold mirror switch, and wiring. I bought a new mirror switch off Ebay for $35.

Mirror switch.

Mirror switch wiring is as follows:

Pin #8
Pin #9

Wiring at the mirror connector is as follows:

Bottom row pin #7 "+" mirror fold
Bottom row pin #8 "-" mirror fold


I bought the following to add the circuits into the factory connectors:

Mirror rectangular connector

Ratcheting crimp pliers

I ran 22 gauge wire from the mirror switch to each mirror, and inserted them into the proper pin locations. I should of used 24 gauge wire, but 22 was all I had. The 22 worked, but a little effort was needed to fit into the connectors at the mirror.

You will need a larger rectangular connector for the mirror switch circuit. They are slightly larger than the pins at the mirror. I was able to spread them with a metal pic.

I believe this is the correct size.
Switch rectangular connector

I hope this helps anyone wanting to install power fold tow mirrors.[/QUOTE]

NM I should have asked- as long as you have power heated mirrors you can add this power fold option with the $35 ebay switch linked here and then the 24 gauge wire with the crimping pieces correct? And this would work on any 2nd or 3rd gen tundra with the 1 AA mirrors referenced for $410, correct?
 
Have a 16 sr5 with tow package heated mirrors and power mirrors has anyone attempted this i believe 16s are slighty different
 
Have a 16 sr5 with tow package heated mirrors and power mirrors has anyone attempted this i believe 16s are slighty different
i just put power fold tow mirrors on my 16 sr5 a couple months ago. i got some contacts from newark so that i could wire them into the factory connectors, but you will have to run 2 wires from the switch to each mirror. i also got my switch from ebay for about 20 bucks, it also cam with a harness for the switch, so i de-pinned 2 of the wires and added them to my switch harness and wired in a relay so mine now have auto fold when i turn my truck off. i can still use the fold button to fold them in while the truck is on.
here is the switch i bought
http://www.ebay.com/itm/142089653296?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
So i have 16 sr5 so i would have to run 2 wire from switch, 1 which is negative to passenger mirror and 2nd to driver which is positive right?
 
So i have 16 sr5 so i would have to run 2 wire from switch, 1 which is negative to passenger mirror and 2nd to driver which is positive right?
So sticking with the color convention above (orange and blue); you will run one orange and one blue wire from each mirror terminal indicated in my pictures.

The wires will meet at the mirror switch.

Splice orange with orange and blue with blue.

Insert the spliced wires in the mirror switch in the spots shown in the picture (using the proper terminals).

You can use whatever color wire I used the colors above for demonstration.

I used 24 gauge wire.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
Last question did you use the terminals that are listed in 1st post or different ones?
 
those terminals work on the mirror connectors but not on the switch. you will also have to cut off a little tab on the top of the terminals so they will slide in. see pic below for what you have to cut off on the terminal. the arrows show the place you will have to cut and there is a little bar that will fall off. get some very small cutters and cut them as flush as possible..

Image
 
Does anyone have the name or link to pins i need for switch to connect it to adapter
 
i was under the impression the mirror connector and switch in dash used different style connectors all together not just a bigger crimp connector thats where i was lost.... thanks for help! going to order mirrors now and hopefully tackle this during the weekend
 
175265-1 terminals for the switch
1123343-1 terminals for the mirror
You will need 2 for the switch and 4 for the mirrors. I got mine from Newark. I would suggest getting like plenty of extras in case you mess any of the up. You can get a basic crimping tool from Frys. Just get something that can crimp 22 to 24 awg.
 
Where did you run your wire from the passenger side mirrors to get it back to the switch?
 
Got everything to the switch but the connector get stuck and wont push all the way in help pleaseeee
The side of the connector that you index finger is on, there is a long rectangular box that lifts out a very little bit, lift it out and it should slide in. Then when your done push the box back in. Don't try to pry the box all the way out, it only comes out a few millimeters.


Image


Image
 
Got it all hooked up nice crimps and push button to fold....no movement from mirrors anyone have any info on what i cantrouble shoot
 
Got it all hooked up nice crimps and push button to fold....no movement from mirrors anyone have any info on what i cantrouble shoot
I would double check the terminals you installed at the mirrors. You might not have them pushed in all the way. On mine they were kinda harder to get pushed in all the way. After you check that, double check the new terminals you put at the switch, those were a lot easier to push in but never hurts to check again. Next turn the truck on and test the power at the new switch terminals and push the fold button and see what the power does, I believe it swaps the polarity around when you push the fold button. After you establish what you going on at the switch, then move to the mirror connectors and test for power there and make sure it's the same as the switch. I'd almost be willing to bet that your terminals at the mirror connector are not push in all the way. Oh I forgot to mention, they will only fold/unfold if the truck is started or key is on position. If you have the key off or out they won't move..
 
One more thing I just thought of... the mirror connectors also have a locking tab just like the switch connector. You need to pry it out a few millimeters so that the terminals will go in all the way..
 
I just finished this mod on my '18 limited yesterday. I was able to get a set of OEM mirrors from a '12 limited with power fold, auto dim, signals, and puddle lights. They don't have the BSM LEDs, so I had to install LEDs in the sail panels like the OP did. Everything worked at first (BSM LEDs light up for a few seconds on startup), but I end up getting a warning when the rear sonar sensors trigger the BSM system and it stops working until I shut the truck off. I used pre-wired 3mm LEDs from amazon, which I believe have a resistor wired in. I am confused as to light up fine on startup, but they fail when the BSM system is triggered. I ended up cutting the white/black wire since I needed that for the puddle lights, but I spliced the positive wire from the LED with the BSM+ wired at the mirror. I don't know if that splice is causing an issue or if it's the resistor.
 
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