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2014 Factory Amp Wiring Diagram

171451 Views 218 Replies 60 Participants Last post by  purplenova
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Someone asked about wiring up a Line Output Converter using the 2014 Non-JBL factory amp wiring harnesses. The 2 harnesses that plug into the factory amplifier under the passenger side front seat have everything you need to install a LOC. I stole the idea from this post: Replace Factory amp powering door speakers (uh.. just a few pics). The OP had great pictures, but didn't include an easy to follow wiring diagram.

This method requires no modification to the truck, which is good for lessee's like myself.

First off, buy TWO sets of Scosche Model: TA02B OR Metra 70-1761, or other brand of Toyota factory radio harness.

The larger harness that comes with these kits will plug into the factory harnesses at the amp, although one will have to be slightly modified.

The first thing I did when I received the factory harness was to pull out all of the wires and pins from the Scosche harness so I could rearrange the wire colors. If you look at the pins (at least in the Scosche ones, I assume its the same with any), there is a little tab that you can push down with a small flat head screwdriver to remove the wire and pin. I rearranged the colored wires to correspond with the factory amp wires. The Scosche wires were also labelled. This is NOT required, but it made it easier for me to remember what was what. For those unfamiliar with car stereo wiring standards, here is the list:

Yellow 12V Constant / Memory
Red Switch / Accessory
Black Ground
Blue Antenna Remote
Blue with White Stripe Amplifier Remote Turn-on
Orange with White Stripe Dash Light Dimmer/Illumination
Green Left Rear Speaker (+)
Green with Black Stripe Left Rear Speaker (-)
White Left Front Speaker (+)
White with Black Stripe Left Front Speaker (-)
Purple Right Rear Speaker (+)
Purple with Black Stripe Right Rear Speaker (-)
Gray Right Front Speaker (+)
Gray with Black Stripe Right Front Speaker (-)

NOTE: These are only the aftermarket stereo standards. I haven't found a vehicle yet that followed these standards.

You will also have to cut one of your harnesses so the larger factory amp harness will fit. It should be self explanatory, but look at the tundrageeks post above for a picture. You will need to cut one of the sides of the harness. I used a wire cutter.

Now for the factory amp wiring diagram. The factory pinout diagram is a little confusing, so here is my explanation:



In order to follow this diagram, hold the wiring harness you bought so the tab is on top and you are looking at the pins (looking "into" the harness).

If you look at the Toyota Wiring Diagram, you will see color code abbreviations. Here is the translation:

B = Black
W = White
BR = Brown
BE = Beige
L = Blue
V = Violet
SB = Sky Blue
R = Red
G = Green
LG = Light Green
P = Pink
Y = Yellow
GR = Gray
O = Orange

Note: I have included the colors as listed in the diagram. I did not confirm the colors, they are just included for convenience. Also note there are two white wires on the 145 harness.

The smaller harness, J144, has the power wire, accessory switched wire, ground wire, and the outputs to the front door speakers.

J144 (Smaller factory amp harness)

Pin 1 - Front Right Output to Speaker (+) - Light Green
Pin 2 - Front Left Output to Speaker (+) - Violet
Pin 3 - Accessory/Switched 12v [Remote In] - Sky Blue
Pin 4 - 12v Constant [Power] - Red
Pin 5 - Front Right Output to Speaker (-) - Blue
Pin 6 - Front Left Output to Speaker (-) - Pink
Pin 7 - Ground - White and Black (NOTE: The factory wiring diagram says that ground is Pin 9, but I confirmed that Pin 7 is actually the ground. It is a white and black wire. )

J145

Pin 1 - Front Left Signal (+) - Brown
Pin 2 - Front Right Signal (+) - Pink
Pin 3 - Rear Left Signal (+) - Light Green
Pin 4 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (+) - Red
Pin 5 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (+) - White
Pin 6 - Front Left Signal (-) - Beige
Pin 7 - Front Right Signal (-) - Gray
Pin 8 - Rear Left Signal (-) - Black
Pin 9 - Rear Right Signal (+) - Blue
Pin 10 - Rear Right Signal (-) - White
Pin 11 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (-) - Violet
Pin 12 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (-) - Green





If you want to power the factory speakers with your new amp or if you want to use factory wiring, you can run speaker wire to the output pins above from your amp. I tried both ways and ended up running new speaker wire only because I am picky. The factory wiring sounded good. The factory speakers also sounded surprisingly good when pushed with more power from my amp. I ended up running new wire because I put in component speakers in the front doors and wanted to keep the crossovers in the cab for easy access to the tweeter attenuation switch.

Because the J145 harness has two extra pins, you will have to manually plug in 2 pins into the factory amp harness. You can see what I mean in the following picture. Its a crappy picture of it all wired up before wrapping everything up and tucking it away:



The speakers in the dash still play, and actually add some nice fill. They are overpowered enough by my front speakers so they aren't an issue.

You could alternatively tap into the wires after the amp, but I was unsure how the amp processed the sound signal. If anyone else tapped into the signal after the amplifier, please post your results.

I installed an LC6I at the factory amp location. I did not remove the factory amp, as I wanted to keep everything as stock as possible, but it is obviously not plugged in. I am running a Kicker ZX700.5 amplifier which powers Infinity Kappa 60.9cs 6.5" component speakers in the front doors, with the tweeters installed in Platinum edition sail panels. My rear speakers are still factory, and they take the extra power from the Kicker amp surprisingly well. I built a custom box that fits under the rear seat and have a single 10" MB Quart shallow Mount RLP254 subwoofer installed. On retrospect, I should have built a dual enclosure and ran two of the subs. The one sound good, but I have to add some bass boost for it to be as loud as I like. I do enjoy the extra floor space for storage though.

Hope this all helps someone out there.

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did they pull signal before or after the factory amp?

sounds like they are using the factory amplifiers front output as a signal as it is internally low passed.

they need to pull signal straight from the radio and leave the factory amp out altogether.

that and make sure the jumpers inside the lc7 are set properly.
It's wired after. How are they supposed to be set
and theres the problem. you cant pull a signal AFTER the amp. its low passed on the front.
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didn't you replace the amp anyways? the stock amp should of been removed and any installer that knows the lc7i should know this... heck any installer that replaced the amp should know.
and theres the problem. you cant pull a signal AFTER the amp. its low passed on the front.
didn't you replace the amp anyways? the stock amp should of been removed and any installer that knows the lc7i should know this... heck any installer that replaced the amp should know.
I sent an e-mail to the guys over at Audio Control and this is their response.

"Hi Jeff -

The LC7i is a line output converter which converts speaker level signal (after the factory amplifier) to line level. That part of the install is inline with our recommended best practices.

The problem may lie in that there were too many speakers relative to the number of inputs of the LC7i - if the front is in a factory crossed-over configuration as well as the rear being crossed over then that would be 8 inputs - front tweets, front lows, rear tweets and rear lows.
To get around this - most folks just use the front outputs to connect to the front and the rears as most folks don't use the factory fade much.

Your amp probably has a function where the front input can be routed to the rear outs as well as the front outs."
the problem isnt that the lc7i cant do be connected to the front or rears, the problem is that the SIGNAL you are connecting to the lc7i is mid/low signal. you would want to connect full signal to the lc7i and then send the output to the amp where you adjust the crossovers and such to dial it in. if you send low signal to the lc7i it wont open it up and give you full range.

if you replaced the amp and speakers theres no reason to keep the stock amp in at this point, its not running anything.
the problem isnt that the lc7i cant do be connected to the front or rears, the problem is that the SIGNAL you are connecting to the lc7i is mid/low signal. you would want to connect full signal to the lc7i and then send the output to the amp where you adjust the crossovers and such to dial it in. if you send low signal to the lc7i it wont open it up and give you full range.

if you replaced the amp and speakers theres no reason to keep the stock amp in at this point, its not running anything.
I basically just copied and pasted your response in my response e-mail

I appreciate you guys helping me as im not the best with wiring and audio. It looks like the installer tapped into the factory wiring harness so i dont know how they would reverse it to be wired after the stereo and not the amp.

At this point i am so frustrated i dont really know what to do. The shop doesn't think they did something wrong and i guess i dont know enough to prove it. I would offer someone money to make two of the adapter harnesses but dont know if it would work with all the alterations they did to the stock harness to get the LC7i to work. They are a pretty well known shop in my area and are listed as a local dealer and installer on Audio Controls website.

:(
all you have to do is have them remove the stock amp under the front passenger seat. there you/they will find the wiring needed for the lc7i. BOTH the input to the lc7i and the speaker outputs from the amp are there.

no need to get frustrated, this is all pretty standard stuff, the shop surely knows this.
all you have to do is have them remove the stock amp under the front passenger seat. there you/they will find the wiring needed for the lc7i. BOTH the input to the lc7i and the speaker outputs from the amp are there.

no need to get frustrated, this is all pretty standard stuff, the shop surely knows this.
Great point. I am a diehard DIYer so I didn't think of that.

I hope they stand behind their work. I have such a hard time trusting anyone to do that kind of work. Too many people overcharge for work I could probably have done better myself with a little research, and know how and why it was done.

Let us know if they won't help, we will try to get you sorted out.
So ive been trying to get to the bottom of this for days now and just spoke to a guy at Audio Control who was super helpful. I asked him over the phone why they didnt just pull signal from the HU and leave out the factory amp and he said it might be a worry of steering wheel control loss, not enough signal / output, but he couldn't lock it down 100%. However he stated over the phone based on the wiring schematic provided i should be able to have full range on the rears.

"You mention below that you have only 8 wires. If that's the case, then you would have full range off the rears as well as the front. Being that you have only the low mid signals from the rears, I suspect that you have the J145 config from that link you sent:

Pin 1 - Front Left Signal (+)
Pin 2 - Front Right Signal (+)
Pin 3 - Rear Left Signal (+)
Pin 4 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (+)
Pin 5 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (+)
Pin 6 - Front Left Signal (-)
Pin 7 - Front Right Signal (-)
Pin 8 - Rear Left Signal (-)
Pin 9 - Rear Right Signal (+)
Pin 10 - Rear Right Signal (-)
Pin 11 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (-)
Pin 12 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (-)

If there is no crossed over signal on the fronts but there is on the rears (per above), the speaker level inputs can be reconfigured so that you have rear full range, front full range as well as the sub.

You might take the info below to the install shop to see if they can set it up this way:
Rear high inputs connect to the 1st set of inputs on the LC7i
Front full range inputs connect to the 2nd pair of inputs on the LC7i
Rear low inputs connect to the 3rd pair of inputs on the LC7i.
Sum channel 3 only

Again - if the front is a full range set up on the speaker outputs and the rears are crossed over, then the above config will allow for the following:
Rear full range out of channel 1
Front full range out of channel 2
Rear low or sub out of channel 3"

I sent this e-mail off to the audio shop and am awaiting their response. So far the shop is willing to do anything to help but seem to have this block that it cant be done as it might be too low of signal, the LC7i has to be pulled from outputs and not signals direct from the HU, or whatever.

Please correct me if im wrong but this is how im understanding the issue.
As of now it is wired after the amp tapping into the Front, rear, left, and right outputs. Due to the stock amp being internally low passed at the fronts it is being low passed at the rears causing the rears to play mid / lows and not full range?

What they NEED to do is pull signal (not output) before the amp which should be full range (somehow) leaving the amp out all together. When doing this adjust the output level gains to compensate a low signal.
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just unplug factory amp. period. the plugs in that amp have everything you need for the lc7i. the inputs go to the lc7i then the speaker side, outputs of the factory amp go to the aftermarket amp speaker out. take factory amp out, i can't believe this shop is making this that difficult. this should of been fix in ten min.
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Wanted to give you guys an idea of what im looking at.





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if the install was done correctly, you can simply unplug the white plugs on the right in the first pic and everything should work the same. Theres no reason to keep the amp when you added an amp to replace that stock one.
if the install was done correctly, you can simply unplug the white plugs on the right in the first pic and everything should work the same. Theres no reason to keep the amp when you added an amp to replace that stock one.
If i unplug the larger J145 connector on the right of the first pic the LC7i turns off. I have not unplugged the other connector i will try that for shits and giggs
so its not installed right. go to the shop, have them unplug the stock amp, and ask them to make it work without the stock amp. they should know how this works. the signal coming off the head unit is plenty good to run the lc7i.... lots of us have done it.
so its not installed right. go to the shop, have them unplug the stock amp, and ask them to make it work without the stock amp. they should know how this works. the signal coming off the head unit is plenty good to run the lc7i.... lots of us have done it.
10-4. I appreciate your patience.
Wanted to give you guys an idea of what im looking at.

It looks nice, but I can not believe they did it that way. Would have been so much simpler to interface it with aftermarket harnesses and leave the stock wiring alone.
There is no aftermarket harness for the amp, I've asked several OEM's directly (including scosche).

For the LC7i signal, did they splice into the HU input side to the factory amp? I couldn't tell by the thread convo. If so, might be your problem. They need to pull LC7i signal from the amplified side.

You should be able to tell on your own, looking at the diagram posted on this thread for your amp. Look at the input diagram vs the output diagram, identify the input vs output connectors (by wire colors) on the amp, then see which one they tapped.
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they tapped into it after the amp, thats the problem. He unplugged the factory amp and the system doesnt work, that tells you they tapped in after stock amp.
There is no aftermarket harness for the amp, I've asked several OEM's directly (including scosche).

For the LC7i signal, did they splice into the HU input side to the factory amp? I couldn't tell by the thread convo. If so, might be your problem. They need to pull LC7i signal from the amplified side.

You should be able to tell on your own, looking at the diagram posted on this thread for your amp. Look at the input diagram vs the output diagram, identify the input vs output connectors (by wire colors) on the amp, then see which one they tapped.
There isn't a harness that is marketed as being specifically for the amp, but there are harnesses that work, see first post in this thread.

To the guy that had the shop do this install: I was wondering how it would work after the amp instead of pre-amp, and now we know. Sorry you had to be a guinea pig. Maybe if you show them the beginning of this thread they can get you sorted out.
There is no aftermarket harness for the amp, I've asked several OEM's directly (including scosche).

For the LC7i signal, did they splice into the HU input side to the factory amp? I couldn't tell by the thread convo. If so, might be your problem. They need to pull LC7i signal from the amplified side.

You should be able to tell on your own, looking at the diagram posted on this thread for your amp. Look at the input diagram vs the output diagram, identify the input vs output connectors (by wire colors) on the amp, then see which one they tapped.
There isn't a harness that is marketed as being specifically for the amp, but there are harnesses that work, see first post in this thread.

To the guy that had the shop do this install: I was wondering how it would work after the amp instead of pre-amp, and now we know. Sorry you had to be a guinea pig. Maybe if you show them the beginning of this thread they can get you sorted out.
Oh I was referring to my JBL by mistake. Unless, are the connectors to the amp the same on JBL and non-JBl amps?
There isn't a harness that is marketed as being specifically for the amp, but there are harnesses that work, see first post in this thread.

To the guy that had the shop do this install: I was wondering how it would work after the amp instead of pre-amp, and now we know. Sorry you had to be a guinea pig. Maybe if you show them the beginning of this thread they can get you sorted out.
I have contact many different shops as well as one given to my by the Audio Control guys who is their recommended shop. It seems as if everyone is a little hesitant of wiring before the amp. Ive gotten responses like "there wont be enough signal", " if you pulling straight signal why do you need the LC7i", etc.

this is why i really appreciate this forum, although im a die hard DIY'er audio stuff and wiring is not my strong suit, and without this forum i would have never known or had an argument.
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