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2014 Factory Amp Wiring Diagram

171453 Views 218 Replies 60 Participants Last post by  purplenova
Someone asked about wiring up a Line Output Converter using the 2014 Non-JBL factory amp wiring harnesses. The 2 harnesses that plug into the factory amplifier under the passenger side front seat have everything you need to install a LOC. I stole the idea from this post: Replace Factory amp powering door speakers (uh.. just a few pics). The OP had great pictures, but didn't include an easy to follow wiring diagram.

This method requires no modification to the truck, which is good for lessee's like myself.

First off, buy TWO sets of Scosche Model: TA02B OR Metra 70-1761, or other brand of Toyota factory radio harness.

The larger harness that comes with these kits will plug into the factory harnesses at the amp, although one will have to be slightly modified.

The first thing I did when I received the factory harness was to pull out all of the wires and pins from the Scosche harness so I could rearrange the wire colors. If you look at the pins (at least in the Scosche ones, I assume its the same with any), there is a little tab that you can push down with a small flat head screwdriver to remove the wire and pin. I rearranged the colored wires to correspond with the factory amp wires. The Scosche wires were also labelled. This is NOT required, but it made it easier for me to remember what was what. For those unfamiliar with car stereo wiring standards, here is the list:

Yellow 12V Constant / Memory
Red Switch / Accessory
Black Ground
Blue Antenna Remote
Blue with White Stripe Amplifier Remote Turn-on
Orange with White Stripe Dash Light Dimmer/Illumination
Green Left Rear Speaker (+)
Green with Black Stripe Left Rear Speaker (-)
White Left Front Speaker (+)
White with Black Stripe Left Front Speaker (-)
Purple Right Rear Speaker (+)
Purple with Black Stripe Right Rear Speaker (-)
Gray Right Front Speaker (+)
Gray with Black Stripe Right Front Speaker (-)

NOTE: These are only the aftermarket stereo standards. I haven't found a vehicle yet that followed these standards.

You will also have to cut one of your harnesses so the larger factory amp harness will fit. It should be self explanatory, but look at the tundrageeks post above for a picture. You will need to cut one of the sides of the harness. I used a wire cutter.

Now for the factory amp wiring diagram. The factory pinout diagram is a little confusing, so here is my explanation:

In order to follow this diagram, hold the wiring harness you bought so the tab is on top and you are looking at the pins (looking "into" the harness).

If you look at the Toyota Wiring Diagram, you will see color code abbreviations. Here is the translation:

B = Black
W = White
BR = Brown
BE = Beige
L = Blue
V = Violet
SB = Sky Blue
R = Red
G = Green
LG = Light Green
P = Pink
Y = Yellow
GR = Gray
O = Orange

Note: I have included the colors as listed in the diagram. I did not confirm the colors, they are just included for convenience. Also note there are two white wires on the 145 harness.

The smaller harness, J144, has the power wire, accessory switched wire, ground wire, and the outputs to the front door speakers.

J144 (Smaller factory amp harness)

Pin 1 - Front Right Output to Speaker (+) - Light Green
Pin 2 - Front Left Output to Speaker (+) - Violet
Pin 3 - Accessory/Switched 12v [Remote In] - Sky Blue
Pin 4 - 12v Constant [Power] - Red
Pin 5 - Front Right Output to Speaker (-) - Blue
Pin 6 - Front Left Output to Speaker (-) - Pink
Pin 7 - Ground - White and Black (NOTE: The factory wiring diagram says that ground is Pin 9, but I confirmed that Pin 7 is actually the ground. It is a white and black wire. )


Pin 1 - Front Left Signal (+) - Brown
Pin 2 - Front Right Signal (+) - Pink
Pin 3 - Rear Left Signal (+) - Light Green
Pin 4 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (+) - Red
Pin 5 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (+) - White
Pin 6 - Front Left Signal (-) - Beige
Pin 7 - Front Right Signal (-) - Gray
Pin 8 - Rear Left Signal (-) - Black
Pin 9 - Rear Right Signal (+) - Blue
Pin 10 - Rear Right Signal (-) - White
Pin 11 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (-) - Violet
Pin 12 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (-) - Green

If you want to power the factory speakers with your new amp or if you want to use factory wiring, you can run speaker wire to the output pins above from your amp. I tried both ways and ended up running new speaker wire only because I am picky. The factory wiring sounded good. The factory speakers also sounded surprisingly good when pushed with more power from my amp. I ended up running new wire because I put in component speakers in the front doors and wanted to keep the crossovers in the cab for easy access to the tweeter attenuation switch.

Because the J145 harness has two extra pins, you will have to manually plug in 2 pins into the factory amp harness. You can see what I mean in the following picture. Its a crappy picture of it all wired up before wrapping everything up and tucking it away:

The speakers in the dash still play, and actually add some nice fill. They are overpowered enough by my front speakers so they aren't an issue.

You could alternatively tap into the wires after the amp, but I was unsure how the amp processed the sound signal. If anyone else tapped into the signal after the amplifier, please post your results.

I installed an LC6I at the factory amp location. I did not remove the factory amp, as I wanted to keep everything as stock as possible, but it is obviously not plugged in. I am running a Kicker ZX700.5 amplifier which powers Infinity Kappa 60.9cs 6.5" component speakers in the front doors, with the tweeters installed in Platinum edition sail panels. My rear speakers are still factory, and they take the extra power from the Kicker amp surprisingly well. I built a custom box that fits under the rear seat and have a single 10" MB Quart shallow Mount RLP254 subwoofer installed. On retrospect, I should have built a dual enclosure and ran two of the subs. The one sound good, but I have to add some bass boost for it to be as loud as I like. I do enjoy the extra floor space for storage though.

Hope this all helps someone out there.


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Thanks for this awesome information! 2 things to add ..

1) Your labeling is slightly incorrect for pin 10 of J145. It should be Right Rear Signal (-). You have it listed as (+). I had to research the original wiring diagram quick.

2) I think using pin 9 as on J144 is probably why your LOC didn't work. By looking at the wiring schematic and pinout description, it appears that pin 7 is the actual ground. It is weird how everything is labeled as pin 9 is (AMP) Body Ground .. but everything seems to always go to pin 7 as being listed as (GND). I think you would have wanted to use pin 7 to use the factory ground. Being that I am wiring in an JBL MS-8 I'll probably run new PWR/GND anyways. But it'll be good to have those to at least initially power it up and test it.

Again, many thanks. This helped me a lot!
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I verified that Pin 7 does indeed work as the ground. I made the changed to the original post to reflect that.
Threads like this and us helping each other out always make me enjoy being a part of these forums!
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Hmmm I may try re-wiring mine to get my processor input from the deck instead of amp, to see if I can reduce some of the delay that I'm getting with my sub output. It is minor, but if I can reduce it, it'll sound better.
Regardless of what the AudioControl manual stated, you DO NOT want to pull the signal after the amp in these Tundras. I am pretty certain you will get much better results from removing the amp all together and tapping the wires right from the plugs that are removed from the amp.
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I know this is an old post, but man...what a great one. TY!

I have some questions, and I already fubar'd one isntall so I'm gonna ask some noob questions I should of asked last time lol...
(I will be installing a mono sub amp and possible a 4 channel 4x50w amp)

1. I'm installing a new amp and I assume I will not use the 12v Red constant power wire, as I will be running a power wire (4 gauge..etc) straight from the battery...right? also, could i use this stock power wire for a small 50x4 4 channel amp?

2. Will the remote turn on for the new amp will be Pin 3 - Accessory/Switched 12v [Remote In] - Sky Blue ???

3. I will be using my own larger ground wire, so I assume the Factory ground wire will also just be unused? (would this wire be ok or a new 50x4 4 channel amp?

4. I've heard conflicting info on this, but to be clear.....the factory head unit is only pushing the DASH speakers...not the front doors..right?

TY in advance for any responses !
1) Correct, you will have to run your own power wire for your amp. I wouldn't use the stock power wire and I would run a new power wire for any amps you are going to run, or run a single power wire into a distribution block in the cab and distribute power to your amps that way.

2) Yes.

3) Correct, factory ground wire will go unused.

4) Factory HU is pushing the dash speakers and sends that same signal to the factory amp. Basically if you unplug the amp, you'll get sound from only the dash.

Hope this helps.
What if you don't want to run a LOC? Id like to save the money if I can
Get an amp that has high-level inputs. Basically it is a built -n LOC to the amp and allows speaker wire to be used as input rather than the low-level RCA-type wires.
Hi Guys,

I am the owner of a new 2017 Crewmax Entune Non-JBL truck, and I'm just catching up on this thread.

I have seen two pieces of conflicting information here and I'm wondering which is correct. One person says that the front audio to the under-seat amplifier is full range and that the amplifier low passes it to the front doors. Another person says that the head unit low passes the front audio to the amplifier. Any idea which is correct??


On my 2014 .. signal is FULL RANGE from the head unit to the amp. I believe it is that way for all years for the non-JBL trucks. JBL trucks I think may be a low pass signal. But, in your case, full range to the amp.
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