Awesome write up debremus!!!
I was summing the third channel which was my problem. I was thinking backwards and thought the summing jumper would sum the main channel INTO the third channel so I could prevent the subwoofer from fading with front/rear. I reset the jumpers to separate and it solved the fading issue.are you summing the front and rear? if so you have a front output from the lc6 with the front and rear input.
thers also a harness you can get that doesnt need cutting but i cant remember the number. i just dug around til i found one. i think it was one of the old import/jeep harnesses.
Wrong size. That's the rear harness for sat. Smaller pins. Its a really old Geo/Isuzu plug I thin .Amazon.com : PIE TOY03-F/MM 2003-up Toyota 12-pin Y-harness Cable : Vehicle Audio Auxiliary Adapters : Car Electronics
This harness actually looks like it would fit the larger factory amp harness, but can't say for sure. It's the correct number of pins anyway.
Thank you for the original post - it was a perfect solution for me because I am on a lease and didn't want to make any modification to the factory wiring.i posted the how to here as well, back then i was frustrated with the lack of help (except from spider) that i was posting more that it was possible and economical and even the most efficient way to improve the sound. but good job on providing more details, should post in the how to i did so people get a better idea....
It made NO sense to me that the factory ground pin didn't work, as it obviously works for the factory amp.I dont remember what I did now. I do plan on pulling the seat up and checking the install as if I think i went from the 4 channel amp to the sub amp instead of using the lc7i. I dont recall the ground but cant imagine that toyota would of used the mounting as a ground and I cant imagine that I would of been careless and not used a proper ground for the lc7i.
I thought the pictures were on my imgur account for both posts. Also, I dont like deciphering the wiring so much because then it allows people to not test for themselves. over the years i have had so many people mis wire the phase on speakers or mix up ignition and constant. I always suggest verifying the wiring so you know for sure.
Thank you for pointing that out, I just made the correction in the original post.Thanks for this awesome information! 2 things to add ..
1) You labeling is slightly incorrect for pin 10 of J145. It should be Right Rear Signal (-). You have it listed as (+). I had to research the original wiring diagram quick.
2) I think using pin 9 as on J144 is probably why your LOC didn't work. By looking at the wiring schematic and pinout description, it appears that pin 7 is the actual ground. It is weird how everything is labeled as pin 9 is (AMP) Body Ground .. but everything seems to always go to pin 7 as being listed as (GND). I think you would have wanted to use pin 7 to use the factory ground. Being that I am wiring in an JBL MS-8 I'll probably run new PWR/GND anyways. But it'll be good to have those to at least initially power it up and test it.
Again, many thanks. This helped me a lot!
Threads like this and us helping each other out always make me enjoy being a part of these forums!I verified that Pin 7 does indeed work as the ground. I made the changed to the original post to reflect that.