Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum banner

1 - 20 of 173 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

I've just started a new build for my 2014 CrewMax and thought I'd document it here. The truck has the JBL Entune head unit, which has its issues, but overall, I'm pleased with it. I have an iPod Classic connected to it via USB which contains all lossless rips. I am not certain if the JBL is indeed bypassing the iPod's internal DAC's but I believe so as I've compared the output with CD and at least as well as I can tell with the JBL amp/speakers, it seems as good.

My plan is to retain the factory head unit and run a fully active, 3-way set up with center channel. The factory amp will remain connected to the rear speakers just for a little fill.

Main Parts

1) Fox Box TCM-210-14-V - Custom 2 10" Sub Box (2014 Toyota Tundra Crew Max Dual 10" vented)
2) JL Audio 10TW3-D4 - Shallow-mount 10" Subs (10TW3-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW3 - JL Audio)
1) JL Audio HD750/1 - 750W Mono Block Sub Amp (HD750/1 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - HD - JL Audio)
1) Hertz Audio HSK163 3-Way Components (6.5" low, 3" mid, 1" high) (http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/doc/hertz_hienergy_hsk163.pdf)
1) Hertz Audio DCX 87.3 3.5" 2-way Speakers (center channel) (http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/hertz_Dieci_DCX_87_tech.pdf)
2) JL Audio HD600/4 - 150x4 Full-Range Amps (HD600/4 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - HD - JL Audio)
1) JBL MS-8 - 8-channel processor/head unit interface with 31-band EQ and autotune (MS-8 | Car Audio DSP, Powered Digital Sound Processor | JBL US)


Accessories

Stinger Wire 0 Gauge Pro Firewall Grommet
Stinger Pro Hybrid 5 Farad Capacitor
Stinger Pro 60 AMP MIDI Shoc-Krome Fuses
Stinger HPM 4 Gang MIDI Fused Distribution Block
Stinger 6000 Shielded Directional RCA Cables
Stinger 1/0 Gauge 4000 Series Power Amplifier Installation Kit
Stinger 200 Amp Circuit Breaker
Stinger HPM 4 Gang 0/4/8 Distribution Block
Stinger HPM Series Battery Terminals
Acousta-Stuf Polyfill Speaker Cabinet Sound Damping Material 1 lb. Bag
C&E 100 Feet 14AWG Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable
6 Feet 16-4 Stranded Wire ($4.25)
20 Feet 12-2 Stranded Wire ($21.79)


Sound Deadening

When I test drove the truck I also drove the non-4x4 version and the TRD version. On each drive I used an SPL app on my iPhone to measure the noise level cruising at 55MPH on a flat, 2-lane highway. I don't know how accurate the SPL app is, but I'm thinking that it's at least consistent and my ears confirmed this. The non-4x4 registered 70dB in my test. The 4x4 Platinum (which I purchased) measured 75dB and the TRD 4x4 was 80dB. This baseline will help me gauge how effective my sound deadening is.

I researched sound deadening via Google and considered allowing a local shop to do it and just buying the materials and doing it myself. The local shop estimated $1,500 parts and labor to do full-coverage. This would have required me to cut back the budget on my components or some other area, so I decided I'd have to do it myself. I decided to go with RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products after reading what others said about them and speaking with them on the phone. It was really nice to have someone tell me exactly what I needed to do to do it right. The cost for the materials was $444 shipped. This includes enough material to do everything but the roof and a double application on the back wall.


Day 1 (May, 14th 2014)

As of today, I have the Fox Box, the MS-8 and the 750/1. The subs and the sound deadening are scheduled to arrive this week. The other parts will be here early next week. Today I started by removing all the interior in preparation of the sound deadening and amp tray fabrication. I am going to do something similar to what you see here: http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-audio-visual-discussion/241202-crew-max-amp-install.html

It took me about 2.5 hours to remove everything down to the carpet. The center console was the only snag. It wasn't easy to remove that without damaging it. I finally got into it by using a putty knife wrapped with masking tape to pry the leather-wrapped piece around the gear shift up. Then the other pieces were fairly easy. It wasn't obvious at first, but the carpet is two parts.

Here's a few photos. The yellow tape on the carpet is my no-cross line for the amp trays and the wood was stacked up to determine a reasonable height of 1" between the bottom of the seat and the top of the carpet. I'm hoping I can stack two of HDs under the driver's side rear seat.

There's some photos of the factory sub and rear window. The back wall has about a 12 lb. hunk of plastic mat coated with a thick dampening material and after removing it I know why. The metal covering the rear window cavity is really thin and even though it's ribbed, it still resonates like a giant drum head and I can see why RAAMaudio recommends a double application.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The MS-8 will take the two front channels from the factory amp as inputs and derive 8 outputs from them. 6 for the left and right components, one for center and one for sub. The fader will still work properly and handle the rears which will stay on the factory amp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
ok i get the ms-8 has 8 outputs with its own small internal power, what is the 4 channel amp for?
I won't be using the MS-8 powered outputs... One four channel amp will power the driver side components and the center channel (4 channels). The other four channel amp will power the passenger side components (3 channels). So there will be 150WRMS on each driver in the front and 750WRMS on the two subs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,669 Posts
nevermind. I missed the pair. it's been a long day. I opted for an xd600/6 so I could just use one amp. didn't bother with a center as the hsk's in the dash are already going to be enough for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Day 2 (May 15th, 2014) - Carpet & Door Panels

Now the carpet is all removed and three of the door panels. The front windows still work from the driver's door. The back windows won't work at all without the switch in the corresponding door panel connected.

The doors and door panels do have some sound deadening material, but only minimal coverage. The little hook tool is a must for the door panels. It works great for the cover behind the handle, as well as the felt covering the screw in the grip.

Notice how the rear speakers look like much higher grade speakers than the front 6x9's. The 5 1/4's appear to have poly cones and they have a much larger magnet.

The foam under the rear seats looks like it's going pretty easy to cut as needed for the amp trays. The issue is the height. I really need to be able to stack two HDs in order to make the best use of my space and have room for everything. The one photo shows the ruler and it looks like there's about four inches from the floor to the bottom of the seat (based on my one inch measurement yesterday). The HDs are 1.93". The questions are the clearance between each amp the stack kit provides as well as the issue of mounting the amps. I don't want to screw into the floor. I won't be able to make a decision on this until the other amps and stack kit come in.

Spent 1.5 hours.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
nevermind. I missed the pair. it's been a long day. I opted for an xd600/6 so I could just use one amp. didn't bother with a center as the hsk's in the dash are already going to be enough for me.
Ah, I see... I updated the text to say "amps" now instead of "amp."

From my research, the MS-8 really shines when you can enable the Logic-7 feature with a center channel. I've read a lot of raving reviews about its sound. So much so I just had to try one. If it doesn't work out, I'll probably switch to an Audison Bit Ten or Arc Audio PS-8.

I looked at modern multichannel amps and have a stack of old-school amps, including an Alpine 3566 6-channel I'd considered using to drive the components with the active set up. The decision maker for me was the power-to-size ratio and the specs of the JL amps. To get ~2,000 class A or A/B Watts in the Tundra would most likely require some sacrifice of space. The JL HDs are good, clean class D amps with twice the power taking half the space so I don't have to sacrifice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Day 3 (May 16th, 2014) - Fox Box Prep

The subs arrived today. As you may have read about in other threads, the holes in the Fox Box don't accommodate the 10TW3-D4's as received (even though they recommend them).

I used my router and a barrel sander to remove ~1/4" of material all the way around. I used the piece of plywood in an attempt to make a level surface for the router, but it was very difficult to make a smooth cut with those raised areas on either side of the subs.

Later I hooked up the subs to the 750/1 with my signal generator and ran them all night at 32Hz at a low level to assist in break-in. Even though I vacuumed out the cabinet before running it, MDF dust blew out of the port for about an hour.

One thing I noticed about the Fox Box is that the port makes a lot of noise itself. Clearly part of that is caused by the port opening not being smooth (it has Line-X inside the hole and very rough edge on the top side). Before I install it, I'm going to hit it with the Dremel or barrel sander to smooth that out some.

Also, the speaker connectors included with the Fox Box "might" handle 100WRMS. The surface area of the connection they provide is tiny and sure to heat up at the power I'll be running. The plastic is not hi-temp so eventually this could lead to less spring-tension, even further weakening the connection. I'm drilling a hole in them that I'll run 12 AWG through directly and caulk up with silicone.

1.5 hours.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
Day 3 (May 16th, 2014) - Fox Box Prep

The subs arrived today. As you may have read about in other threads, the holes in the Fox Box don't accommodate the 10TW3-D4's as received (even though they recommend them).

I used my router and a barrel sander to remove ~1/4" of material all the way around. I used the piece of plywood in an attempt to make a level surface for the router, but it was very difficult to make a smooth cut with those raised areas on either side of the subs.

Later I hooked up the subs to the 750/1 with my signal generator and ran them all night at 32Hz at a low level to assist in break-in. Even though I vacuumed out the cabinet before running it, MDF dust blew out of the port for about an hour.

One thing I noticed about the Fox Box is that the port makes a lot of noise itself. Clearly part of that is caused by the port opening not being smooth (it has Line-X inside the hole and very rough edge on the top side). Before I install it, I'm going to hit it with the Dremel or barrel sander to smooth that out some.

Also, the speaker connectors included with the Fox Box "might" handle 100WRMS. The surface area of the connection they provide is tiny and sure to heat up at the power I'll be running. The plastic is not hi-temp so eventually this could lead to less spring-tension, even further weakening the connection. I'm drilling a hole in them that I'll run 12 AWG through directly and caulk up with silicon.

1.5 hours.

Any chance you could post up the full dimensions of the foxbox? I may have my shop build a box to these specs, but without the issues of fitting the TW3's. Size of the port?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Day 4 (May 17th, 2014) - Glove box removal, MS-8 installation & wiring

The sound deadening order didn't arrive as estimated. This forced me to change plans a bit, so I decided to focus on the MS-8. I had read somewhere about space available above the glove box. I'd like to have found that the MS-8 would fit there, but it's not going to happen. You can see the size of the 2x4 I could get in there. You might get two of them this size stacked together in the available space. Getting the glove box off would have been a little easier had I known about the snap behind the little panel near the transmission hump. I thought I was going to break something getting it to let go.

So the next logical place was under the driver's seat much like the factory JBL amp on the passenger side. The photos show it with the seat all the way forward and all the way back. It fits nicely. I plan to keep the metal mounting straps underneath the carpet.

Next I started wiring up the MS-8 by tapping into the factory amp's wiring harness. All the schematics/diagrams I was able to locate for the Tundra were for the non-JBL system and they aren't the same. I used a VOM and a signal tracer to figure them out. 3 conductors from a 16-4 cable purchased at Home Depot was used to carry 12V+ (red), GND (black) and ACC (white). The red and brown wires in the black connector are 12V+. The white/black wires in the white connector with heavy gauge wire are grounds. The thin light blue wire in the other white connector is ACC.

The factory amp is apparently on all the time or is controlled by a data connection from the head unit. There is no connection at the amp that has 12V+ only when the head unit is powered on. So the MS-8's REM IN connection will be tied to the ACC wire.

The MS-8 needs enough inputs to recreate the full signal. Unfortunately, the connections at the amp under the seat do not include the front mid and high frequency drivers. I used a piece of CAT5 with twisted pairs of stranded wire to tap into the amp's outputs for the front door speakers and the sub. Another run will need to be made from the MS-8 to the dash to tap into the high frequency outputs, which come directly from the head unit.

4 Hours
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,396 Posts
This is an awesome setup!!! I have the ms-8 and looooooooooooovvvvvvvvvveeeeee it!!!! It will really get any speakers to perform at full potential and then some! Programming it was quite a challenge since I'm not an audio tech but I finally got it tuned thanks to a member on here named "trumpet".

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Okay, thanks. What confused me is that the schematic only shows the amp connected to one of the front door speakers. Weird.

Edit: I was looking at this on my phone and it wasn't obvious that the amp was divided across multiple pages. What is still weird to me is the schematic seems to indicate that the front speakers are powered by the amp under the seat. My testing showed otherwise, so I'm going to have to revisit this.
 
1 - 20 of 173 Posts
Top