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Completed this mod, 2 interesting finds:

1. Navigation thinks you're in reverse when cam is active. It catches up within a minute or two of camera being deactivated.

2. I ordered a pack of 10 diodes, the band is on the opposite side of ops. Test before you install anything permanently.

Using temporary switch right now but 2 blue air on board switches ordered. Pricey switches.
 

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Completed this mod, 2 interesting finds:

1. Navigation thinks you're in reverse when cam is active. It catches up within a minute or two of camera being deactivated.

2. I ordered a pack of 10 diodes, the band is on the opposite side of ops. Test before you install anything permanently.

Using temporary switch right now but 2 blue air on board switches ordered. Pricey switches.
Did you wire this up with the AOB switches? I'm looking to do the same and could benefited from a diy or which wires to tap
 

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Did you wire this up with the AOB switches? I'm looking to do the same and could benefited from a diy or which wires to tap
Yeah but the only difference was adding a +12v and -ground to the switch because it's lighted. I got both from the neighboring cig lighter.


I also would bet you could use that +12v to power the camera instead of splicing into ignition power, but YMMV - just a guess.

one thing that should be stressed tho - OP recommends you DON'T DO THIS MOD. =] Seriously tho, if you're not pretty confident going in, and mess up - a blown fuse would be lucky - and an electrical fire would be not. If you take your time and use a multimeter, you'll be okay.
 

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Yeah but the only difference was adding a +12v and -ground to the switch because it's lighted. I got both from the neighboring cig lighter.


I also would bet you could use that +12v to power the camera instead of splicing into ignition power, but YMMV - just a guess.

one thing that should be stressed tho - OP recommends you DON'T DO THIS MOD. =] Seriously tho, if you're not pretty confident going in, and mess up - a blown fuse would be lucky - and an electrical fire would be not. If you take your time and use a multimeter, you'll be okay.
I'm more interested in what wire you tap'd into for the interior backlight.
 

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@tillithz

Great Mod, works perfectly. I want to take this to the next Level. Living in NYC and having a bull bar on my truck sometimes while parking in super tight spots I end up using my bull bar to "sense" bumpers in front of me (with no damage to the bar) . Do you know if the input to the head unit from the cam is a standard video input that comes on when power from a cam source is applied or a digital signal that triggers the video to come up. I want to mount a forward looking camera with a switch into the head unit without installing a video mixer. I cant seem to find any documentation on the wiring to the head unit and camera

Thanks in Advance
 

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Discussion Starter #30
it is an analog signal, you can connect a standard composite camera connection. However, the power for the camera is 5vdc I believe, so you will want to get power somewhere else then the factory camera power. You could even purchase the wire harness and have an input if I am not mistaken, it could be either switched with the reverse camera or have its own video input selectable on the stock head unit menu. enjoy
 

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What I'm trying to do is splice in the front looking camera to the video-in wiring with diodes and a relay controlled by a switch. When the vehicle shifts into reverse have it lock out the front looking camera regardless if its powered or not then switch back to the front (if active). Do you by any chance know where to get the camera harness ?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
thats one way to do it however requires you to splice into factory wiring. you could simply press the input button and have the cam in front come up.

either way the harness i am referring to is just a harness for the head unit, not just a harness for the camera. its been posted before, maybe not in this thread but a search on google or ebay should locate it.
 

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What amp/voltage diode did you use?

Also, just so I'm clear on it, the wire spliced into the yellow reverse wire and the wire from the grey ignition are the two that run back to the switch?
 
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