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It’s hard to get a good pic of the driver’s side but just comparing the amount of piston exposed relative to the flat part of the housing above it, it looks like the PS has about twice as much piston protruding.
 

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The tensioners are hydraulic. When the engine was together and full of oil, the oil pressurizes the tensioners to keep them tight. Plus the racheting function keeps them locked from collapsing too far. Without engine oil pressure, that tensioner is able to collapse to the nearest ratchet notch. When I did this replacement on mine I also noticed what you see. When I turned the motor by hand I found it kinda cycles back and forth. Passenger side tight driver side loose. Then driver's side tight passenger side loose. As loose as that pic shows, you probably are seeing the reason that tensioner needs to be replaced. It may not be locking on the furthest ratchet notch available. Make sure chains on the gears on the right marks and you won't have any problem when it goes back together. Because of the tensioner needing to pressurize, the first start will likely be noisy. Then shut off and start it again and the tensioners will lock out and keep tight.
 

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Thank you! I couldn’t have peace about not replacing it with the chain that loose so I’ve begun the process of taking the accessories off. If anyone has anything in particular that they’d like to see, speak up and I’ll try to get gold pictures for you.


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Also worth noting, when you do put it all back together. The wiring harness has enough memory and plugs are such that they all make sense except for the 2 on the drivers side valve cover. I believe they are cam position sensors. They are somewhat close to each other and the plugs are identical. Both pig tails come out of the harness in the same spot. If you get them backwards it will idle fine but as soon as you start to accelerate it will start to miss and shake the truck and throw codes. My tell tale was a tiny yellow paint dot on one of the plugs that matched up. Corrected, reset codes and all was happy. Just something to watch out for.
 

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Thank you for that. I tried to take a lot of pictures while disassembling since it seems that I only ever get an hour here and there to work on things. Pretty frustrating when you're dealing with something big like this. I will look for any marks that those solenoids have when I'm plugging stuff back up. I'm glad you told me about it though cause it MIGHT have caused me some anxiety if I got it all back together, idling and then tried to drive it and everything goes crazy.

I'll probably start a new thread when I get done with this to describe this whole journey that led me to this point. I actually just set out to replace valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals because of finding some oil on a couple of the plugs. It's turned into quite a bit more than I anticipated, to include loose valvetrain components laying around inside the head.

That and the fact that I've never seen/smelled any oil on the outside of the engine leads me to believe that someone had been in this top end to do something (cam tower reseal?) at some point before I got the truck.
 

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Hi all, thank you so much for keeping this thread going. I have been trying research and find out if at all I am suffering from this very failure. My truck is a 2007 Tundra Limited 5.7 with 176000 miles.

I took the oil filler neck off to look under there and see if the tensioner was loose and chain guide was rattling but it looked like that wasn't the case. I ran some Seafoam for 200 miles and I just changed the 800 mile old oil. It came out very dark and dirty.

I made video to share here and perhaps some of you can tell me what I am hearing. Am I correct does it sound like it isn't a tensioner issue? Thank you in advance.

 

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Does the noise cycle and get louder then abruptly stop for a few seconds before starting up again? Maybe take a video through the drivers side fender well?
 

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The noise isn't there immediately at start up. It is always present and does not cycle.
It appears to come on after revs drop... It is very interesting... It start with a click or two and then developed to what you hear. The last two days it has gotten cold here and I think I heard a rattle while cracking. I am not sure if it related.

Nevertheless... here is a video of that happening.
I also go to the drivers fender once it happens. Maybe VictorG can weigh in this too :).
I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you!

 

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The noise isn't there immediately at start up. It is always present and does not cycle.
It appears to come on after revs drop... It is very interesting... It start with a click or two and then developed to what you hear. The last two days it has gotten cold here and I think I heard a rattle while cracking. I am not sure if it related.

Nevertheless... here is a video of that happening.
I also go to the drivers fender once it happens. Maybe VictorG can weigh in this too :).
I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you!
It is notoriously difficult do diagnose a noise from a video, so unfortunately I don't have an answer for you :(
Take the filler neck off again and just double check that the primary tensioner on the long chain connecting the intake gear to crankshaft does not move (not the secondary tensioner on the short chain connecting the two cam gears).
 

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Thank you VictorG. I’ll remove the filler neck one more time and watch. Side note, I chose to use the Toyota branded oil this time and the engine sounds way quieter. It’s the 0w-20.

I was thinking since at first start while cold, the revs are higher thus more load, the chain is tight. Once the RPM go down, load and oil pressure go down; the ticking starts as the tensioner relaxes.
Does that sound plausible?
 

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Well I got some time to work on it today. I was able to get the timing cover taken off. It took quite a while to pry it loose once I got everything out of the way and all of the bolts loose. Mostly because I was trying to be so careful not to do any damage to what I fear is a brittle aluminum casting. After it started moving, it was hung up badly on the coolant tube at the top center. But if I’m being honest, the part that took the longest was getting the power steering pump off. I got all of the bolts taken out and it DID NOT BUDGE. It was so rocksteady that I thought for sure there must’ve been a bolt I was missing. Finally I was able to get it to move just the slightest bit and it seemed to be rotating about the top, center bolt even though it wasn’t there. Well I finally wiggled and pried it out only to realize that it was fully disconnected but it fits so snug that it didn’t want to move.

I’m really impressed with the way this engine looks on the inside. Apparently the PO was good about oil changes, as I have been. Here’s some pictures. If there’s anything in particular that y’all want to see while I got it apart, please let me know. And thanks to all who have contributed thus far. This has been a tremendously helpful discussion.









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I looked in there one more time. I do not see the chain guide bounce... but I do not think it is tight against the chain either.

Could the noise be lifters? I’m lost. Any ideas?

Nevertheless I called the local dealer and was quoted $1600 for the job plus parts. I’ll just suck it up and pay a diagnostic fee before I spend that cash.
 

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I looked in there one more time. I do not see the chain guide bounce... but I do not think it is tight against the chain either.

Could the noise be lifters? I’m lost. Any ideas?

Nevertheless I called the local dealer and was quoted $1600 for the job plus parts. I’ll just suck it up and pay a diagnostic fee before I spend that cash.
Never heard of a lifter failing on this engine. (Other than the guys in Dubai running stock lifters on cammed 7000 rpm trucks).
 

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I drove at the dealer today to have them diagnose and listen to it. They said no need to do anything to the engine. That sound is very much normal. They said they have had new engines with that same sound. Nothing that can be done about it. The story does not end here though please read on.

As I came to a stop light off of the exit from the interstate my transmission started acting up. There after it does not shift into 5th of 6th. It also shifts hard. I drove it to the dealer and the service rider wrote down the P0751, P2714.

A quick google search says I should check fluid level.. but their master tech says is more than that. Long story short I am being told my transmission needs to be replaced.
What in the world? Has anyone of you had this happen? Do you know if these codes indeed indicate that I need a new transmission? I am lost for words :(.
 

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As I came to a stop light off of the exit from the interstate my transmission started acting up. There after it does not shift into 5th of 6th. It also shifts hard. I drove it to the dealer and the service rider wrote down the P0751, P2714.

A quick google search says I should check fluid level.. but their master tech says is more than that. Long story short I am being told my transmission needs to be replaced.
What in the world? Has anyone of you had this happen? Do you know if these codes indeed indicate that I need a new transmission? I am lost for words :(.
I had these same symptoms and suspected that it was a solenoid in the transmission as I’ve been down this road with Aisin transmissions in the past. I went through all of the steps to troubleshoot and it ended up being exactly the solenoid that I suspected. It was not hard to change but it’s messy because you have to drop the pan to get in and change it. I’ll look and see if I have a record of what my codes were tomorrow and let you know if they’re the same. In my case I checked fluid level, checked my whole electrical system that could affect that solenoid (battery, fuses, etc.) and when I removed it I also checked the solenoid and it was bad.


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I had these same symptoms and suspected that it was a solenoid in the transmission as I’ve been down this road with Aisin transmissions in the past. I went through all of the steps to troubleshoot and it ended up being exactly the solenoid that I suspected. It was not hard to change but it’s messy because you have to drop the pan to get in and change it. I’ll look and see if I have a record of what my codes were tomorrow and let you know if they’re the same. In my case I checked fluid level, checked my whole electrical system that could affect that solenoid (battery, fuses, etc.) and when I removed it I also checked the solenoid and it was bad.


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What were your symptoms? I’ve had a hard shift into 2nd and a flared shift into 5th only when I manually up shift into 5th since I bought my rockwarrior at 153k.

Did a full fluid exchange pan drop and filter. Fluid was black but didn’t smell burnt.

I’m suspecting the S2 solenoid as it is used in both 2nd and 5th gear based on my research. I have no codes though. Thermostat is pinned open also.

Any thoughts?
 

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The symptoms are these;

Hard shifts from 1st-2nd violent, softer to 3rd, 4th is fine.
The RPMS hang out around 3-4K while shifting as I get to speed 45 mph. The faster I try to go higher they get.
It doesn’t go to 5th or 6th, I can’t do it manually either. I can’t get to highway speeds this way.

The dealer performed transmission fluid exchange 500 miles ago.

Thank you all!
 
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