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Thank you. I didn't get to finish it up. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to get back to it.

ViktorG is it possible to take the front cover off with out having to to take off the valve covers? Maybe they can be loosened up to move high enough to clear the front cover when taking it off?
Hi guys - this post is awesome and thank you! My question is, Did you unhook the coolant lines or were you able to keep them connected and moved out of the way?
 

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10K+ miles is a lot on a truck that needs oil changes every 5K miles (that is what I meant to say in my previous post, I put 8K miles accidentally since that is the interval in kilometers - I'm in Canada).
The timing is a bit tricky but with Alldata and Youtube you'll figure it out.
ViktorG, Thank you for that point, I admit I probably got sloppy as the truck (and I) got older. That it's at 300k miles without issue and runs great is a testament to Toyota IMO.

Regarding the timing marks, I didn't see all that info prior to undoing tensioners, etc. I couldn't find the pertinent info in ALLDATA so just went ahead disassembling...like a dummy..then realized it was under general "engine disassembly," and couldn't get chains on and everything sync'd to properly begin disassembly, which led me to forums for advice. I still haven't had luck and after maybe 30+ crankshaft turns couldn't turn the crank further. So went back and removed cam controllers and chains, crank turns freely thankfully. How would you proceed to move on to pull the cam towers off? Do I need to put chains back on and get the controller knock pins to the -42 deg, 3 deg, etc. and then unbolt towers or....? I'd like to do that but I'm going wrong somewhere.
 

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Hi guys - this post is awesome and thank you! My question is, Did you unhook the coolant lines or were you able to keep them connected and moved out of the way?
I remove all coolant lines for ease of access to the timing cover and valve covers.
 

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My understanding is that it is for all the chains and tensioners but I will clarify that with them... It would seem having the work done at Toyota would make the most sense, the reason I asked about other reputable shops in Calgary is the shop rates tend to be higher at the dealerships. The dealership hasn't actually told me that the work needs to be done but when the truck is cold at startup I get varying levels of rhythmic tapping, quieter then louder then nothing then the cycle repeats and at times it sounds like loose change in the clothes dryer. Having researched the noises it led me to the conclusion that it was the tensioners/chains... The truck has 202K on it at this point. I noticed in this post that you suggested other parts should be changed that could take advantage of the fact the the front end had been taken apart... Can you let me know what I should ask Toyota to do in addition to the chains since they are in there anyway?

Thanks! Steve
When we did this on a friend's truck we replaced all chains, guides and tensioners. You could also replace the cam gears, but they are pretty pricey and don't fail often. Also put a new water pump on since the timing cover is off anyways. The tensioner that fails is the primary chain tensioner on the driver side. If you want to save money, you can just replace that.
I would not take this job to a backyard mechanic or a generic auto repair shop. The dealership naturally costs more, but you get warranty and also hopefully a tech that knows what he is doing.
 

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ViktorG, Thank you for that point, I admit I probably got sloppy as the truck (and I) got older. That it's at 300k miles without issue and runs great is a testament to Toyota IMO.

Regarding the timing marks, I didn't see all that info prior to undoing tensioners, etc. I couldn't find the pertinent info in ALLDATA so just went ahead disassembling...like a dummy..then realized it was under general "engine disassembly," and couldn't get chains on and everything sync'd to properly begin disassembly, which led me to forums for advice. I still haven't had luck and after maybe 30+ crankshaft turns couldn't turn the crank further. So went back and removed cam controllers and chains, crank turns freely thankfully. How would you proceed to move on to pull the cam towers off? Do I need to put chains back on and get the controller knock pins to the -42 deg, 3 deg, etc. and then unbolt towers or....? I'd like to do that but I'm going wrong somewhere.
Attached is the Toyota repair manual with all the instruction on doing this job. I called you but you didn't pick up.

Viktor
 

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I just realized I said coolant... what I meant was the air conditioning refrigerant
You can just unbolt the compressor and hang it to the side, you do not need to evacuate the refrigerant.
 

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Great write up!! What about the AC condenser? The compressor has flex hose and can be moved to the side. But do you need to have the AC system discharged to disconnect the hard lines to the condenser to move it out of the way?
 

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Great write up!! What about the AC condenser? The compressor has flex hose and can be moved to the side. But do you need to have the AC system discharged to disconnect the hard lines to the condenser to move it out of the way?
The condenser stays in place, you only remove the radiator.
 
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You can just unbolt the compressor and hang it to the side, you do not need to evacuate the refrigerant.
Hey ViktorG - I’m getting ready to put this thing back together. When re installing the timing cover, should I finger tighten all the bolts and then follow the torque tightening sequence or do I just put number 1 bolt in and torque to specs and then move on to #2 and so on?
 

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Great write up!! What about the AC condenser? The compressor has flex hose and can be moved to the side. But do you need to have the AC system discharged to disconnect the hard lines to the condenser to move it out of the way?
I did end up unhooking and removing the condenser to get in out of the way.
 

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In process of reassembling from this job now. I finger tightened all then went back and torqued. Be aware. Some of the bolts are ones that hold the fan bracket and water pump, but atleast one is behind the fan bracket so you can't put the bracket on until after that bolt in the torque sequence.
 

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In process of reassembling from this job now. I finger tightened all then went back and torqued. Be aware. Some of the bolts are ones that hold the fan bracket and water pump, but atleast one is behind the fan bracket so you can't put the bracket on until after that bolt in the torque sequence.
Thanks Jn2wheeler!
 

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I remove all coolant lines for ease of access to the timing cover and valve covers.
I just realized I said coolant... what I meant was ac
Hey ViktorG - I’m getting ready to put this thing back together. When re installing the timing cover, should I finger tighten all the bolts and then follow the torque tightening sequence or do I just put number 1 bolt in and torque to specs and then move on to #2 and so on?
ViktorG- Help!! I put everything back together and added the coolant. I went to get the oil to add and when I got back I heard coolant dripping from the back of the engine area. It was leaking pretty good. I thought maybe I didn’t hook up one of the coolant lines but they all appear attached. I added a picture Of the general area but couldn’t see exactly where it was leaking-but
882290
it was getting dark and hard to see with coolant dripping down near my face. Any ideas? Do I have to remove the timing cover again 😕? Hopefully I’ll be able to see a little better tomorrow.
 

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I remove all coolant lines for ease of access to the timing cover and valve covers.
I just realized I said coolant... what I meant was ac
Hey ViktorG - I’m getting ready to put this thing back together. When re installing the timing cover, should I finger tighten all the bolts and then follow the torque tightening sequence or do I just put number 1 bolt in and torque to specs and then move on to #2 and so on?
ViktorG- Help!! I put everything back together and added the coolant. I went to get the oil to add and when I got back I heard coolant dripping from the back of the engine area. It was leaking pretty good. I thought maybe I didn’t hook up one of the coolant lines but they all appear attached. I added a picture Of the general area but couldn’t see exactly where it was leaking-but it was getting dark and hard to see with coolant dripping down near my face. Any ideas? Do I have to remove the timing cover again 😕? Hopefully I’ll be able to see a little better tomorrow.
 

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I removed the timing cover again. I noticed that the o-ring on the coolant tube that fits into the cover may not have seated correctly. I should have used a new one. Could that have caused the coolant to leak at the back of the engine? It’s on a slight hill so any leak would run to the back? Everything else looks in order.
 

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I removed the timing cover again. I noticed that the o-ring on the coolant tube that fits into the cover may not have seated correctly. I should have used a new one. Could that have caused the coolant to leak at the back of the engine? It’s on a slight hill so any leak would run to the back? Everything else looks in order.
Yes, that would definitely cause a coolant leak at the rear of the engine.
 
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This has been a very helpful thread. Thanks to all who have posted pictures, insight, instructions, etc. I’m in the middle of trying to take the DS cam tower off of my 5.7 and as I was trying to compress the tensioner, I realized that the chain felt really loose. I’m going to try to post a picture or a video. What has me concerned is that the PS tensioner looks like it is much further extended at rest than the DS tensioner and, coincidentally, the chain on that side feels much tighter.

The history of the truck is that I bought it about 5 years ago with 140K (now at 248K) from an independent shop that specializes in Toyota’s. It had been a one owner and had some service records but not perfect. I have maintained it pretty much by the book since I’ve had it. Oil changes every 5K, etc.

It ran fine when I last drove it and the only odd noise that it ever made was on startup for just a second. And the only time that happened is if the truck had sat for 2 weeks or so between startups. I just assumed it had to build some oil pressure.
 

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This is looking down between the cam gears. Can you see the gap between the chain and the guide?!? That’s not with the tensioner retracted.
883257
 
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